RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
That a great approach, it will let you experiment and "see" what's working!
steering overhaul
- Thread starter ehall
- Start date
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
My good friend evowheeler built his own bracket. He's running stock wheels, with spacers and 33s and a fairly out-bore track bar mount.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Parts were ordered (minus the links). Ended up buying FK heims for all of the axle-side ends, since the JJs also seem to have return-to-center issues. Will have to get some PVC and start test fitting in the next few weeks (couple of other projects ahead of this and may take that long for parts to arrive anyway).
Thanks for the help fellas
Thanks for the help fellas
Ive found track bar length not to matter. Yes i did attempt to outboard my track bar as much as possible.
Fabbed my own brack set Parralell to drag link. Length just isnt critical but yes longer is maybe better but may also be worse since drag link isnt pivoting from same point out side tge frame.
The drag link and track bar are pivoting from different starting points so length no longer is much of a factor.
Parralell to eachother is king.
To me it sounds like you got some fubaralation going on with differing components not entended to live together being stacked on top if one another.
Fabbed my own brack set Parralell to drag link. Length just isnt critical but yes longer is maybe better but may also be worse since drag link isnt pivoting from same point out side tge frame.
The drag link and track bar are pivoting from different starting points so length no longer is much of a factor.
Parralell to eachother is king.
To me it sounds like you got some fubaralation going on with differing components not entended to live together being stacked on top if one another.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Finally got started on this
TMR truss and Artec gussets were welded onto the axle by a nearby shop, then I removed the stock brackets, tacked the JCR front stiffeners in place (will finish later), and reinstalled the axle housing to the control arms to test travel.
The tie-rod rubs the coil buckets and the diff at full turn, and needs to come forward a bit. I need to replace those heims with off-sets.
I had to go OTK on the steering arm to get the parallel angles (more-or-less) working. Otherwise the axle-side trackbar bracket would have to go under the coil bucket, exposed and non-adjustable. OTK puts the drag link close to the oil pan, but I checked full stuff and it doesn't contact until very close, the bumpstops and the compressed coil spring will stop it before it makes contact (I hope). I am running a YJ pitman arm which is flatter than the stock arm, so I can drop the arm a couple of inches if needed.
With the track-bar set to the same length as the drag link, the axle-side bracket sits right in front of the passenger coil bucket, about 4-inches too long. The frame-side bracket hits the driver coil bucket and needs to come forward about an inch. I have room to bring the frame-side bracket out and forward without hitting the tire, but probably only move it a little and deal with any remaining bump steer (if it becomes annoying I will fab my own frame-side bracket). I am going to cut the axle bracket and mount it to the face of the truss to give more vertical adjustment so that I can compensate angle changes in the drag link if needed to clear the oil pan.
The knuckle clears the tire with the 3.75 backspacing but it's really close, might add .25" ring spacers to get me through.
Haven't tried sway bar links yet.
More or less as expected, some surprises.
TMR truss and Artec gussets were welded onto the axle by a nearby shop, then I removed the stock brackets, tacked the JCR front stiffeners in place (will finish later), and reinstalled the axle housing to the control arms to test travel.
The tie-rod rubs the coil buckets and the diff at full turn, and needs to come forward a bit. I need to replace those heims with off-sets.
I had to go OTK on the steering arm to get the parallel angles (more-or-less) working. Otherwise the axle-side trackbar bracket would have to go under the coil bucket, exposed and non-adjustable. OTK puts the drag link close to the oil pan, but I checked full stuff and it doesn't contact until very close, the bumpstops and the compressed coil spring will stop it before it makes contact (I hope). I am running a YJ pitman arm which is flatter than the stock arm, so I can drop the arm a couple of inches if needed.
With the track-bar set to the same length as the drag link, the axle-side bracket sits right in front of the passenger coil bucket, about 4-inches too long. The frame-side bracket hits the driver coil bucket and needs to come forward about an inch. I have room to bring the frame-side bracket out and forward without hitting the tire, but probably only move it a little and deal with any remaining bump steer (if it becomes annoying I will fab my own frame-side bracket). I am going to cut the axle bracket and mount it to the face of the truss to give more vertical adjustment so that I can compensate angle changes in the drag link if needed to clear the oil pan.
The knuckle clears the tire with the 3.75 backspacing but it's really close, might add .25" ring spacers to get me through.
Haven't tried sway bar links yet.
More or less as expected, some surprises.
