What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

[riverfever]

So if I'm reading this right, you had the hatch open, replacing it and bolted the hinges down - essentially too far forward so when you went to close it, the hatch edge slipped over the roof edge and now the two edges catch keeping you from opening it....... right?

Dayum, that sucks.

I'm thinking that if I were in that predicament I'd look for something that I could put down in the gap, thin and slick enough to encourage the hatch edge to slip up and over the roof edge.

My wife has these thin plastic cutting sheets - made of that strong slick plastic. I'd probably try something like that.

Upon first glance I thought you were exploring the culinary arts in between playing with your Hotwheels.

 

[eflores]

4 link all the things -_-

i just can't wrap my head around this link calculator

 

[denverbusa]

Found a set of 5 Moabs for $100. Put the 35s' on! Whoop Whoop!

Now I can proceed with the JK steering and brakes.

Props to Spidertrax for getting the adaptors out so quickly. I ordered them on Sunday night and they arrived on Tuesday afternoon!

Saved $40 bucks by getting the Blemished JK Wheel adaptors too. I looked and couldn't find a blemish so they have a pretty high standard.

 

[DutchVDub]

4 link all the things -_-

i just can't wrap my head around this link calculator

7-9" axle separation, uppers 75% of lowers, over 30deg triangulation to eliminate need of panhard.

 

[eflores]

there's more to it than that Rich

 

[freerider15]

there's more to it than that Rich

Yes and no.

Going to be back in FoCo anytime soon?

I could walk you through mine...

 

[DutchVDub]

There is more to it than that, but at the same time you aren't building an Ultra4 rig or WEROCK comp buggy. The basic rules allow you to get the thing working and on the trail, they'll also get it working well. Make your mounts adjustable and you can fine tune it for you.

Vertical Separation: 7-9" at the axle, 4-5" at the frame
Link length: 36-42" lowers, make the uppers 75-85% of the upper length

 

[Frank Z]

New deck mostly welded in the cargo area....ran out of wire.

 

[eflores]

What was wrong with yours?

 

[Frank Z]

Wrong color.

 

[Frank Z]

The floor was bent pretty bad and it was easier to replace it with 16ga plate.

 

[xj-grin]

ROR - wrong color...

 

[1-tonxj]

There is more to it than that, but at the same time you aren't building an Ultra4 rig or WEROCK comp buggy. The basic rules allow you to get the thing working and on the trail, they'll also get it working well. Make your mounts adjustable and you can fine tune it for you.

Vertical Separation: 7-9" at the axle, 4-5" at the frame
Link length: 36-42" lowers, make the uppers 75-85% of the upper length

I thought the rule of thumb was the upper ...atleast ...70% of the lower lenght , and they can be up to same length as the lowers , Or atleast theat what I uderstood it to be when I built the one for my ZJ 15 years ago ...making all link same size if you can makes it easy to carry a spare link ....all in all you can put a perfect set on paper and thein it will come down to compromise on where thing fit in real life .

 

[eflores]

did you have to brace it a lot or is 16ga thick enough to just use a couple small square tubes

 

[Frank Z]

No bracing yet.

 

[DutchVDub]

I got a 50" light bar from Justin, plus some mounts for them. The mounts came nicely powder coated and fit pretty well. I'll need to get some longer bolts so I can remount the add on mirrors for when my doors are off. I also need to figure out how I want to route the wiring for the light bar so for now its not hooked up.



I also took the tailgate and tire carrier off so I can figure out my spare tire mounting for in the bed. Here it is sticking out about an inch farther than it should with an RCI 15gal fuel cell behind the back seat. As you can see I'll be able to lower my cargo rack down several inches. All the tools and recover gear will go under the back seats to shift weight around and free up as much room as possible for cargo.





Once I sell off the TeraFlex tire carrier setup and the GenRight bumper I'll buy my fuel cell and figure out a much lower profile bumper setup. I also need to figure out how I'm going to go about mounting a tubed tailgate to wrap around the spare tire. That tailgate will angle back to the tub and have the license plate and 3rd brake light on it.

I'm thinking the easiest thing to do is buy some corner armor and just weld tabs onto that. Then use bushings to support the 2 cross bars for the tailgate.

 

[Frank Z]

Scored a Dana 300 for a really good price.

 

[hatchbox]

attempting to retrofit HID

 

[Kittrell]

Interesting projectors, what are they from?

 

[COjeeper]

Got a little work done on the jeep this weekend.