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Weekend is over...what did you get done?

Pulled pitman arm after going to 4 different auto shops for a loan a tool puller that wasn't already stripped out.
Will finish up install tomorrow after work. Feels darn good working on the jeep again.
 
Who knows their stuff about lockrights?

This sucker refuses to unlock. Breaks pins as soon as you drive 5 feet with the wheels turned in either direction. I'm thinking the holes for the pins are no longer round enough to work properly.

Yes, it's installed correctly. Lock Right says there should be no more than .020" between the spacer and the center pin. I'm measuring .025". Ya think .005" would make that big of a difference?

Here's a short video showing the slop in the pins. That's gotta be the issue...



I hate these damn things.
 
Did you install the original side gear shims?

Yes. According to Lock Rights installation book there should be between .005 and .020" between the spacer and the center pin on either side with no more than .008" difference. It measures .025" on both sides but the center pin seems to have a small amount of play in the carrier. (Maybe .003")

That would lower the measurement I took down to around .022 on either side.

That air gap looks too big to me but its hard to tell without touching the diff.

Lock Right doesn't specify any particular measurement between the two inside plates. But, you're right, it looks like too much gap in the middle.

This locker was in this Jeep when we acquired it. The locker was working fine. We took the Jeep out and broke the pins playing on a hill climb. Pulled the pins and replaced with new pins. Once the new pins were in he took it for a drive around the yard in 2wd. Broke the pins in 2wd on flat ground while turning... We've replaced the pins again and this is where it sits now in the video.

With it installed just like it is now the locker WILL NOT unlock. It will not ratchet, click, slip, whatever you want to call it. This sucker is locked in place. When you turn the tire the pins seem to move too much in the holes and put the locker in a bind and not let it slip. (At least that appears to be the issue to me)

Done rambling now.
 
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Yes. According to Lock Rights installation book there should be between .005 and .020" between the spacer and the center pin on either side with no more than .008" difference. It measures .025" on both sides but the center pin seems to have a small amount of play in the carrier. (Maybe .003")

That would lower the measurement I took down to around .022 on either side.



Lock Right doesn't specify any particular measurement between the two inside plates. But, you're right, it looks like too much gap in the middle.

This locker was in this Jeep when we acquired it. The locker was working fine. We took the Jeep out and broke the pins playing on a hill climb. Pulled the pins and replaced with new pins. Once the new pins were in he took it for a drive around the yard in 2wd. Broke the pins in 2wd on flat ground while turning... We've replaced the pins again and this is where it sits now in the video.

With it installed just like it is now the locker WILL NOT unlock. It will not ratchet, click, slip, whatever you want to call it. This sucker is locked in place. When you turn the tire the pins seem to move too much in the holes and put the locker in a bind and not let it slip. (At least that appears to be the issue to me)

Done rambling now.

Have you checked the springs? If the springs are binding up they wont disengage/engage. Also you shouldnt be breaking the pins just driving around it locked or not. There shouldnt be a load on the pins, or atleast very much load. Sounds to me like its stuck halfway engaged and disengaged. To me sounds like the springs might be the issue. hope this helps a little bit.
 
Have you checked the springs? If the springs are binding up they wont disengage/engage. Also you shouldnt be breaking the pins just driving around it locked or not. There shouldnt be a load on the pins, or atleast very much load. Sounds to me like its stuck halfway engaged and disengaged. To me sounds like the springs might be the issue. hope this helps a little bit.

The springs are brand new as well. It's fully engaged all the time and won't disengage.

Anyway, last night I dove into installing my SYE. The lack of a good set of snap ring pliers turned a 2 hour job into a 4 hour job. I've never had that much trouble installing a SYE...

Then, apparently I went about reinstalling the oil pump pick-up tube back into the pump the most difficult way possible. It was a PITA to get the tube back into the pump... I don't recall that being so difficult either.
 
Nice video Dirk!

Got a lot accomplished over the weekend around the house, and got to take in the inaugural football game at my alma mater on Saturday. To be there and witness the very first game was purely awesome. Football is something that's been a long time in the works for our school, and i'm glad to see it finally happening. Not to mention we kicked ass and won 52-7!

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Man I hate I wasn't able to make it to that game, my roommate said it was a blast! I'll be doing everything in my power to make it to homecoming for sure though!!!
 
Man I hate I wasn't able to make it to that game, my roommate said it was a blast! I'll be doing everything in my power to make it to homecoming for sure though!!!

It was a sweet game. I'd like to make homecoming as well, but I don't know if that'll happen.

Well as of last night I FINALLY got a NAXJA membership!

Nice! Congrats!
 
Well it didn't happen over a weekend, but Wednesday I finally put insurance on mine and took it for a drive. It took about 10 miles to realize something was wrong. I could feel it on the verge of death wobble, but it would never go full on with the shakes. I also found the drivers side front caliper was trying to seize, so I replaced them both. Pads and rotors were still in great condition so I was able to save a little money there, and that was a good thing because after I got it on the lift to do the calipers, I went over the entire front end and realized it needed, well, everything. Ball joints are shot, upper control arm bushings on the axle side are whooped, and half of the tie rod ends are worn. Soooooo......I buttoned up the brake work and went home and ordered all the parts I need from Rockauto.com. All Moog replacement parts, with the exception of the ball joints which are from Omix-Ada which I'm not quite sure how I feel about them, but they'll be better than the ones on it now. I also ordered all new ZJ steering components to replace the worn stock stuff. Got a pretty good deal I think (I also had a discount coupon code for a little off). All four ball joints, both upper CA bushings, ZJ drag link, tie rod, adjuster sleeves & tie rod ends, all for $306 shipped. Ball joints came in today so I'll be putting those on sometime over this weekend, the rest of the parts will arrive during the next week.

Next on the punch list is inspecting the rear axle to determine what the heck is making it roar :tear:
 
Well last weekend I finally put all of my XJ's interior back in since the fire I had. Finally can drive the damn thing. Forgot what it felt like to have a passenger seat and rear bench haha. Tomorrow ill be picking up a new Tcase for my toyota to do a dual case install soon. Yay for Super low gear.
 
Well last weekend I finally put all of my XJ's interior back in since the fire I had. Finally can drive the damn thing. Forgot what it felt like to have a passenger seat and rear bench haha. Tomorrow ill be picking up a new Tcase for my toyota to do a dual case install soon. Yay for Super low gear.

Buddy of mine did that on his old 4-runner a couple years ago. That thing would crawl like no other in the extra low range it had. Made for some fun at Uwharrie. Point it literally at whatever you wanted to crawl over, let the clutch out in first and it would idle right over anything. Of course, it had 37's on it too which helped a lot.
 
Buddy of mine did that on his old 4-runner a couple years ago. That thing would crawl like no other in the extra low range it had. Made for some fun at Uwharrie. Point it literally at whatever you wanted to crawl over, let the clutch out in first and it would idle right over anything. Of course, it had 37's on it too which helped a lot.

Until it rained.... :spin1:
 
Up in Huntington WV, I will be tortured later by the sounds of a football game from the Marshall stadium next door to the job site. Found out how to pull a wheelie in a scissors lift this morning.
 
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