Weekend is over...what did you get done?

Couldn't hurt to replace, as they're only about $10, but I don't think that's the problem. Usually I see a code showing "small leak" when it's the gas cap. Seeing as how he's getting a "gross leak/no flow" code is making me think it's a bigger issue.
 
So the check valve is all made in with the whole assy that goes in the tank. That's shitty. Why can't it be like the early model where I don't have to drop the tank! Ahhh!
 
So the check valve is all made in with the whole assy that goes in the tank. That's shitty. Why can't it be like the early model where I don't have to drop the tank! Ahhh!

Yup. And i'll go ahead and tell you know that the evaporator on the late models is shitty as well. Not of a matter of if it leaks, it's when. Not a hard job at all to replace it, just a time consuming one as the whole dash has to come off. Maybe you're lucky and it's been replaced already.
 
if the check valve is the only fuel related issue it's having, I could live with the long crank for a long time. Not that the pump assby. is that hard to change, but I'm a cheap S.O.B. and don't like replacing things that still work.
 
Yeah for some reason for my 96 auto part stores don't like to sell a whole assembly they sell me parts of it and I have to tear it apart and put it all together. but for a 95 they make a full kit and for a 97 they do as well. I think my sending unit is bad as well so Im going to have to tear into it soon.
 
Well, Tim you remember when my TPS went bad and the only way to get it started was to push the pedal all the way down. Some reason it was causing too much fuel flow i replaced the TPS and now i have long starts lol.

Right, which is what I mentioned above about if it were a TPS issue, it wouldn't want to start period without help from the driver. His is failing to start on the first try, but is starting on the second try without help from him, which sounds like classic check valve failure.

And that's because you got a bastard year Jim :D Half pre 97 parts and half post 97 parts. And to top it off, there's no rhyme or rhythm to it either. Literally it's whatever they had laying closest to them in the factory when the thing was built!
 
Mine comes and goes. Humidity seems to have the biggest effect on it. Once we get past the humid summer days, it will go back to normal. Maybe yours will do the same?
 
My wife's 2000 has a bad check valve also but I haven't changed it out yet because I don't want to drop the coin on a new unit. It just takes a little more cranking, that's all. I will say that it's a little harder on the battery on all the short runs she makes so if the battery gives out, then it'll be time for a replacement of both!!
 
Yeah for some reason for my 96 auto part stores don't like to sell a whole assembly they sell me parts of it and I have to tear it apart and put it all together. but for a 95 they make a full kit and for a 97 they do as well. I think my sending unit is bad as well so Im going to have to tear into it soon.
96 fuel sender assemblies are a wack piece, they have the later style single fuel line delivery system w/ regulator in the tank but fit into the older style metal tanks, and the gauge sender is unique to that year. They are made of unobtainium and even if you find someone who will sell you one brand new, it is probably because their database is screwed up and you will end up with a 91-95 assembly. Hit the junkyard if you need one.

You can swap a 97+ tank and sender into a 96 with little pain, but your gauge will be wacked. It will read a half tank low and VERY non linear.

So glad I scrapped my 96.
 
My wife's 2000 has a bad check valve also but I haven't changed it out yet because I don't want to drop the coin on a new unit. It just takes a little more cranking, that's all. I will say that it's a little harder on the battery on all the short runs she makes so if the battery gives out, then it'll be time for a replacement of both!!

click the key to on then to off twice then turn it on and fire it, it just needs to prime the system..... every 97+ xj ive ever had has done it, that fuel pump in hers was brand new when it went to live with you so other than that there shouldnt be any big hurry to replace it
 
My wife's 2000 has a bad check valve also but I haven't changed it out yet because I don't want to drop the coin on a new unit. It just takes a little more cranking, that's all. I will say that it's a little harder on the battery on all the short runs she makes so if the battery gives out, then it'll be time for a replacement of both!!


Same deal on my 2004 WJ....
 
Don't crank... just cycle the ignition to run, when you hear the pump stop, cycle to off then run again, repeat 2 or 3 times. It should start on the first crank.
 
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