Weekend is over...what did you get done?

Are you sure the blend door is in the right place?

Im having issues with my 98 already! It started fine the other day. Now I go out there to start it and it'll spin with no start. Then ill turn the key off and start it. It starts but runs rough for a couple seconds, then stabilizes and runs perfect till next time. What's that sound like? Im late model illiterate.

Welcome to owning a late model. They're plagued with long/hard starts thanks to the check valve for the fuel line failing, thus letting all the fuel drain out of the line back into the tank. The long/crappy starts come from it having to build up pressure again.

Try "priming" it by turning the ignition on for a few seconds, then off, then on for a few seconds and then try to crank it. Or just get used to it, like the rest of us do! lol.
 
Jesus, we got 4 conversations going at once. Lol.

So, is the check valve easily replacable?

Would the tps or iac cause hard start then run fine. Usually, tps causes low idle in tthe past.
 
This is a common problem with 2nd gen saturns - the check valve is engineered weird and it causes a no start condition. If you give it a second, it'll start up.
 
yeah that's why everyone pretty much just deals with it im gonna have to over haul my fuel system in the near future though b/c i have long starts and my fuel gauge isn't working so im prolly gonna wind up trying to over haul the whole thing and fix that long start problem while in the process of the fuel gauge.
 
So I think that how I had the heater hoses hooked up wasn't changed when I had the conversion done. Is it possible there is some air bubble or something in the heater core or lines?

I assume if the lines are hot, that means that hot coolant is in them, right?
 
So I think that how I had the heater hoses hooked up wasn't changed when I had the conversion done. Is it possible there is some air bubble or something in the heater core or lines?

I assume if the lines are hot, that means that hot coolant is in them, right?
pop one of em off see if coolant comes out that will tell you if coolant is in them. If you did convert from closed to open system then you shouldn't have any issues with air pockects that works its way out in an open system and doesn't affect it like a closed system.
 
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? I just drove it about 5 miles. I cut it off and it starts right back up perfect. 5 times in a row. If it sits for an hour is spins for a minute. Then finally starts.
 
I went out and squished the hoses in my hand. Each hose I squished made the coolant in the neck of the radiator move around. Shortly after that, I had hot heat again. Weird.

My radiator cap is pretty cool, though. The hoses are pretty hot but the cap itself isn't hot at all. What's that mean?
 
Correct, the check valve is in the tank and is not serviceable w/o dropping the tank and pulling everything out. It will fire right back up with in minutes of shutting it off, because the fuel doesn't have a chance to run back to the tank yet. However, waiting some time (as little as 20-30 minutes) and it's all run back, then you get the hard starting.

The only hard starting i've seen TPS's do on late models is not fire at all without help from you giving it some gas. After that, it wouldn't hold an idle for a few minutes either. Kinda like when the PCM resets from a dead battery and loses all it's idle parameters. Typically TPS's make the idle real high or real low, and a lot of times mess with the shift points of the transmission.

As for your EVAP code, not sure what to tell you on that one. I haven't got very good at diagnosing them just yet. Wouldn't hurt to do the basics and start tracing lines (rubber) looking for cracks and holes.
 
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