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Weekend is over...what did you get done?

Got my Wrangler all put back together. Bolted on a set of Smittybilt tube step bars on the Suburban to replace the grandpa running boards. The tube steps fit like crap so I'll have to go back and readdress that. Then I started working on that old 4.0 engine from the '99 Xj I parted out last year, the one with the supposed "bad head gasket" lol. It will be going into an upcoming project XJ soon.
 
Found this over the weekend and picked it up yesterday. Was sitting in the shed at one of my customer's shops. He didn't know the mileage, but said it was a running engine when he pulled it from a customer's wrecked jeep. It's out of a WJ. I really only wanted the intake manifold, but when he took my offer of $100 for the whole thing, I couldn't turn it down.


d7193b59a542b7ebee1ffd3d0d5a8eaf.jpg
 
hxcjohnny said:
Found this over the weekend and picked it up yesterday. Was sitting in the shed at one of my customer's shops. He didn't know the mileage, but said it was a running engine when he pulled it from a customer's wrecked jeep. It's out of a WJ. I really only wanted the intake manifold, but when he took my offer of $100 for the whole thing, I couldn't turn it down.


d7193b59a542b7ebee1ffd3d0d5a8eaf.jpg
Click to expand...

and I have a clean 99 WJ sitting in my yard that needs a 4.0 engine... You should buy it...
 
hxcjohnny said:
Send me details!
Click to expand...

I'll also sell ya a 99+ intake manifold so you don't have to rob the one off that engine.

I'll load some pictures. I need $800 for it. Clear title, a touch over 200k, pretty decent shape. I see that I said it was clean... It's not destroyed but it could use some detailing. lol It belonged to my brother in law but he starved the engine of oil and boom. He bought a new truck and don't want to fool with putting an engine in this thing.
 
3 more days in New York City, then I'm home until the Crawl....and I should have a set of shiny new Brown Dog motor mounts sitting on my workbench when I get back...
 
After 2 + weeks of back and forth with Oreilly's and carquest I finally got the correct brake rotors and wheel studs for the D60. First they sold me rotors with lug holes that were too small. Then they sold me wheel studs that were too big and one of the rotors cracked. So they warrantied that...realized their mistake and found the correct wheel studs.

I have decided that unless this one rolls off a cliff this is the last major trail rig I want to build. If something does happen to this I think it's an XJ with stock axles, pay to have it regeared and 4" lift and 31's or 33's. DONE! LOL I've bought, built (or partially built) way too many rigs over the last 20 years...I BE TIRED!!

Just need to (tomorrow hopefully) repack the outer bearings and then put the locking hubs on.

After that it's measure steering/cut DOM and weld in tube ends. weld on track bar bracket and then make any adjustments to the front driveshaft.

Then my signature won't be a lie! Well...it's not really a lie...the 60 is bolted under the MJ...it's just not operational yet.
 
Installed the new ujoints on the new 35 spline stubs. Tried to install the WARN 35 spline hubs and cannot get the snap ring in place or the retaining ring for the inner lockout in place. Doing some searching and apparently there is a fitment issue with the select-able part of the hub.
 
What is it in? Your D30? I use a pry bar on mine. I'm just up the road from you. I'd be willing to come by and see if there is a trick to getting your carrier out.


If you are bent on using a shop, take it to Patterson's there in Nolensville next to the Advance. They do all my Jeep work, that I don't do myself. Fairest guys around. Vern takes good care of my stuff.
 
wizardPC said:
I spent 2 days trying to get the diff carrier out so I can replace the axle seals. Can't get it out. Tomorrow I'm putting the axle shafts back in and calling some shops for ballpark numbers. Anyone got a recommendation for Williamson County TN?
Click to expand...

Use an appropriately sized wrench on a ring gear bolt at the top and hold it against the housing to keep the carrier from rotating, then use a pry bar on a lower ring gear bolt and pry it out. Make sure your drive shaft spins freely first, if it's the rear and in park/in gear, it won't let the pinion rotate which is required to extract the carrier.
 
Figured I'd get a pic of the method i descried at work this morning, hope it helps!
IMG_20160502_071714780.jpg
 
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