TNT Customs

[XJ_Vikings]

i have seen both kits in action and seen the clayton lift take an extreme beating and keep on ticking. Both are good kits, both have pros and cons, my vote would be for the TnT but i could be persuaded to go with clayton as well. Its really up to you

 

[MoabXJeeper]

I have the TnT long arm kit on my heep and have been very pleased with it so far. I have gone from constantly lifting tires to getting solid traction...have even been accused of having "too soft suspension" which I disagree with. The one problem I have encountered with the kit is the exhaust rattling against the sub-frame.

 

[Starboard M]

I have the Tnt set up, so I might be a bit biased, so take it with a grain of salt.
The Clayton system looks like a nice set up, and is good. People are not arguing that it is a bad way to go. The main downfall that I can see is the lack of clearance on the arms, and the lack of a substantial crossmember and skid plate. It seems that you would catch the arms on a lot of rocks and other things, that would hold you up. Yes, the arms can take it, but if you can avoid it all together, then whats the point?

The TnTs on the other hand seem to address all those issues. It has the ground clearance at the belly, and the arms are tucked up higher at the axle end. They have more clearance then I did when I had short arms. A point that I have heard is that people might hit their driveshaft and yoke with the TnTs, where as the Claytons they would hit the arms, which can take the hit. If I were to hit, I would hit the arms, and not the dshaft or yoke. Now this is on a hp30, so I can say for the lp30.
The other thing that is a main drawback is the skid plate and how hard it is to work on the tranny and tcase. My thinking on that is if you have the mechanical ability to take off a tranny to work on it, or put on a sye, then supporting the jeep and taking off the skid isnt that big a deal. And honestly, how often do you work on that stuff? I would rather sacrific the ability to work on the tcase and tranny, and have a beefy skid that I dont worry about hitting on rocks that I might have to pull if I have to do some work.

Take it as you will. I love mine, and would never trade it. yes, its not as good as a custom 3 link like URFs or some other kind of linked suspesion, but for a bolt on kit, it is for me the best one out there.
:jumping off bandwagon:

 

[ZachMan]

TNT > *

 

[jrsxj98]

You guys can have all the pissing matches you want. It all boils down to what kit you prefer, your the one who has to pay for it. They both have their ups and down. I looked hard at both and the decision was easy for me to make.

This is why everone says to search. A little time to search this topic (that has been beat to death) would have saved all the whining and crying.

 

[GreenGhost]

Robsewter,
They just changed their website within the last week or so. You have to hold your cursor over the "Products" button, then navigate out through the little cascading menus that should pop up when you do. There's a bunch of info and pics available. And yes, they sell just the arms/bellyskid, or can hook you up with the whole enchilada. I think the set up they have advertised that comes with everything is rated at 6.5" of lift.

 

[JonnyK]

i like my tnt kit just that i tend to go through Heim joints often,

What "Heim joints"? My kit didn't come with any spherical rod ends, aka "Heim joints". All the joints are rubber bushings or Rubicon Express Super-Flex Joints.

Also, the complete kit is offered in either 5.5" or 7" of lift.

 

[Blue XJ]

All null. Claytons pieces could handle a nuclear blast. So the crossmember isn't gonna fail and neither will the arms. If they do, he'll replace them, no questions asked. You don't like square tube, um, sure, thats a great reason.............:twak:

Yeah but when it fails after a wheeling trip and you are going 65+ on the highway, will he replace everything else that breaks or gets damaged? Warranties don't mean anything other thanthe kit is expected to break at some point.

 

[Garst1323]

I have the Clayton long arm setup with the coil conversion and i love the subframe and bellypan set up it works great, also people are talking about high clearance arms...I would rather hit my longarms than my driveshaft, I believe if I am not mistaken that with the TNT setup your driveshaft hangs lower then your longarms, in the clayton setup the longarms run a tad bit lower then the driveshaft, the longarms can take the abuse, usually the driveshaft can't.

Just my thoughts

AJ

 

[HillbillyXJ]

Broken record... use TnT's belly pan with the link mounts, add an upper link bracket (there's room), then build your own control arms for a hidden 3-link. Best of both worlds...actually better see'in how I can't fab all the stuff :helpme: