- Location
- sacramento
looking good. So what made you decide to build a 44/9 ?
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The Black Pearl
- Thread starter Nates2000XJ
- Start date
- Location
- San Jose
Thanks twinhauler and blondejon. There’s a handful of reasons that pushed me off the fence and buy a the 44/9. Just because other people run them isn’t a good enough answer in my opinion lol. I’m planning on building these axles for 37 or 38” tire as well.
There’s a step up in strength from a 30 to a 44 ring gear/pinion. Having broken a r/p on the Dana 30, luckily not a catastrophic failure, I’d like to increase the strength of the front diff. I do know there are ways to get a JK44 r/p into the older ford housings and that will be something I look into since the gears are a bit thicker and offer more tooth contact iirc.
Second reason was even though I haven’t had any big issues with the 8.25, the 9” has the pinion support bearing at the end of pinion that helps mitigate ring gear deflection. I can also run a larger tire with the 9” and keep pretty good ground clearance. If one upgrades the locker and shafts on a 9”, the jump from 28 or 31 spline can be quite easily be upgraded to 35 since the same amount of work needs to be done.
The 9” has an exclusively steel housing so trusses and braces can span entire width of the housing without having to welding to dissimilar metals. Old 9” housings are often known to not be 100% straight though so that sucks.
Although the older Ford/Chevy/Jeep 44 uses the 5-760x U joint, the older axles come with manual locking hubs. Unlocking a hub or just disassembling a hub is more attractive than untorqing the Dana 30 axle nut, removing the axle and reinstalling the stub to continue driving. This obviously can depend on the nature of the breakage but in general terms I like that aspect of the manual locking hubs.
I like that on a full width front axle, there’s more real estate for bracketry and mounting locations for stuff like hydro assist. The ability to flatten and get better steering geometry on a full width axle is also a plus (due to the increase in locations for mounting)
This matching lug pattern set of axles also came up for sale and for what I though was a half way reasonable price.
I’m not stoked on the weight increase from stock to the 44/9. I also realize that wider isn’t always better... to a degree. In the long term I plan on hanging onto the 30/8.25 if I end up with another XJ or even a YJ. It would be neat to have a built set of axles that take little to no work to get under another Jeep. I think another suitable swap is jk44s but in my experience, they can be just as elusive as the hp Ford 44. But there’s always the aftermarket housing industry so I suppose there no limit to what you can swap.
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There’s a step up in strength from a 30 to a 44 ring gear/pinion. Having broken a r/p on the Dana 30, luckily not a catastrophic failure, I’d like to increase the strength of the front diff. I do know there are ways to get a JK44 r/p into the older ford housings and that will be something I look into since the gears are a bit thicker and offer more tooth contact iirc.
Second reason was even though I haven’t had any big issues with the 8.25, the 9” has the pinion support bearing at the end of pinion that helps mitigate ring gear deflection. I can also run a larger tire with the 9” and keep pretty good ground clearance. If one upgrades the locker and shafts on a 9”, the jump from 28 or 31 spline can be quite easily be upgraded to 35 since the same amount of work needs to be done.
The 9” has an exclusively steel housing so trusses and braces can span entire width of the housing without having to welding to dissimilar metals. Old 9” housings are often known to not be 100% straight though so that sucks.
Although the older Ford/Chevy/Jeep 44 uses the 5-760x U joint, the older axles come with manual locking hubs. Unlocking a hub or just disassembling a hub is more attractive than untorqing the Dana 30 axle nut, removing the axle and reinstalling the stub to continue driving. This obviously can depend on the nature of the breakage but in general terms I like that aspect of the manual locking hubs.
I like that on a full width front axle, there’s more real estate for bracketry and mounting locations for stuff like hydro assist. The ability to flatten and get better steering geometry on a full width axle is also a plus (due to the increase in locations for mounting)
This matching lug pattern set of axles also came up for sale and for what I though was a half way reasonable price.
I’m not stoked on the weight increase from stock to the 44/9. I also realize that wider isn’t always better... to a degree. In the long term I plan on hanging onto the 30/8.25 if I end up with another XJ or even a YJ. It would be neat to have a built set of axles that take little to no work to get under another Jeep. I think another suitable swap is jk44s but in my experience, they can be just as elusive as the hp Ford 44. But there’s always the aftermarket housing industry so I suppose there no limit to what you can swap.
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- Location
- Sacramento, CA
Well let me know if you ever plan to sell the 30. It is built to the level that I have been looking for.
Right now my issue is most that I find are geared to 4.88 where the rear I have is 4.56.
Right now my issue is most that I find are geared to 4.88 where the rear I have is 4.56.
Last edited:
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
I like what you've been doing. Interested in seeing how the rear tire carrier works out....
All your reasoning for going with the 44/9 are good. As far as your statements quoted above, the increased weight is unsprung weight and I see that as very beneficial, in tandem with increased width, for improved stability in off-camber situations. I think roughly JK width (65" ish wms front) is a really good width for an XJ with bigger tires.
- Location
- San Jose
I recall measuring the 9” before tearing it down but I never wrote the measurement down. However, I don’t expect that to drastically change after converting to disc.
This last week some 9” parts showed up. Yukon nodular iron 3rd member, alum Daytona bearing support, billet 1350 u bolt yoke, 35 spline ARB, and a lube locker. Also got a pretty slick skid plate that protects much more than the ruffstuff pinion guard I was originally looking at running. Wasn’t much more expensive either.
Gears should be here this week and then I’ll probably take it to get set up fairly soon. I picked 5.13 on which should keep me where I’m at on 33s once I get 37s. Next thing I’ll order are shafts. For ease, I’ve been looking at Nitros. Talked with them on the phone and got some conflicting info regarding warranty so I’ll have to get back on the horn with them. Photos of the bling soon.
In prep for Reno, I got the front ARB in the 30 plumbed and wired up. The diagram in the manual makes it so you have to have one locker on before the other can be turned on so I wired the switches to be independent of each other. If anyone’s curious, I can post up my diagram.
I also made a sheet metal bracket to hold 2 rocker switches on the trans shift bezel. When I installed the switch for the rear locker years ago I didn’t leave much room for another switch. Pretty happy with how it came out. This was one of those all day projects where I took my time and had music bumpin
. Fantastic weather in the South Bay.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This last week some 9” parts showed up. Yukon nodular iron 3rd member, alum Daytona bearing support, billet 1350 u bolt yoke, 35 spline ARB, and a lube locker. Also got a pretty slick skid plate that protects much more than the ruffstuff pinion guard I was originally looking at running. Wasn’t much more expensive either.
Gears should be here this week and then I’ll probably take it to get set up fairly soon. I picked 5.13 on which should keep me where I’m at on 33s once I get 37s. Next thing I’ll order are shafts. For ease, I’ve been looking at Nitros. Talked with them on the phone and got some conflicting info regarding warranty so I’ll have to get back on the horn with them. Photos of the bling soon.
In prep for Reno, I got the front ARB in the 30 plumbed and wired up. The diagram in the manual makes it so you have to have one locker on before the other can be turned on so I wired the switches to be independent of each other. If anyone’s curious, I can post up my diagram.
I also made a sheet metal bracket to hold 2 rocker switches on the trans shift bezel. When I installed the switch for the rear locker years ago I didn’t leave much room for another switch. Pretty happy with how it came out. This was one of those all day projects where I took my time and had music bumpin
. Fantastic weather in the South Bay.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- San Jose
9” locker, gears, and third member are out getting set up. 35 spline cut to length shafts arrived today. All literature, packing slip included, says they are the press in wheel stud style although the ones that showed up are drilled for threaded studs. They do, however, fit the ‘89 Bronco rotors that I’ll be using for the disc brake conversion unlike the stock 31 spline shafts. In reading on whether or not to use grade 8 bolts as studs, it sounds like it’s a little sketch to run just bolts so I’ll track down legit thread in studs.
Once i get the third member back I can get these trimmed and installed before welding caliper brackets on.
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Once i get the third member back I can get these trimmed and installed before welding caliper brackets on.
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- Location
- San Jose
I met up with some friends this weekend and picked up the 3rd member on the Reno Run this last weekend. My buddy did a killer job getting the Yukon 3rd, ARB, and 5.13 gears set up.
It’s gonna be hotter than a hoochie cooch for most of this week so hopefully I’ll find time to get the diff in the housing.
As far as the 44 goes, it’ll be getting some more attention now that the rear is almost done. East coast gear supply has ARBs 10% off along with a 15% moving sale. Some parts for the 44 should be here on Thursday so I’ll show more when I get them.
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It’s gonna be hotter than a hoochie cooch for most of this week so hopefully I’ll find time to get the diff in the housing.
As far as the 44 goes, it’ll be getting some more attention now that the rear is almost done. East coast gear supply has ARBs 10% off along with a 15% moving sale. Some parts for the 44 should be here on Thursday so I’ll show more when I get them.
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DocTremp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
I met up with some friends this weekend and picked up the 3rd member on the Reno Run this last weekend. My buddy did a killer job getting the Yukon 3rd, ARB, and 5.13 gears set up.
It’s gonna be hotter than a hoochie cooch for most of this week so hopefully I’ll find time to get the diff in the housing.
As far as the 44 goes, it’ll be getting some more attention now that the rear is almost done. East coast gear supply has ARBs 10% off along with a 15% moving sale. Some parts for the 44 should be here on Thursday so I’ll show more when I get them.
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I’m jealous of your ARB man! Is that a Nodular iron 3rd member?
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- Location
- San Jose
Thanks man, yeah nodular iron with the larger daytona pinion bearing.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Hope it last longer than this one did on its first time out.
DocTremp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
Hope it last longer than this one did on its first time out.
Ouch! Did he come down on a rock?
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- Location
- San Jose
Gordo who was this? I saw photos of this over the weekend.
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
Wow, never going to see a Dana 60/Dana 70/14 bolt/Sterling do that.:rtm:
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
It was a local guy. First run out with the axle too. Felt bad for him. This happens a lot in drag racing.
- Location
- San Jose
Haven’t had anything really going on over the last few week until yesterday. Front shafts for the 44 showed up but the locker is still back ordered. I was relieved when I found out the 30spline stub shafts fit through the spindles. Sick.
I got started on a diy skid plate kit for the 9”, pretty stoked on how it came out. Also drilled and welded a fill bung. Now that the skid plate is done I’ll work on a drain bung.
Rear axle bearings and seals showed up so I’ll get those slammed on so I can cut the shafts to length. We’ll see how they turn out. Anyways, enjoy.
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I got started on a diy skid plate kit for the 9”, pretty stoked on how it came out. Also drilled and welded a fill bung. Now that the skid plate is done I’ll work on a drain bung.
Rear axle bearings and seals showed up so I’ll get those slammed on so I can cut the shafts to length. We’ll see how they turn out. Anyways, enjoy.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
DocTremp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
Haven’t had anything really going on over the last few week until yesterday. Front shafts for the 44 showed up but the locker is still back ordered. I was relieved when I found out the 30spline stub shafts fit through the spindles. Sick.
I got started on a diy skid plate kit for the 9”, pretty stoked on how it came out. Also drilled and welded a fill bung. Now that the skid plate is done I’ll work on a drain bung.
Rear axle bearings and seals showed up so I’ll get those slammed on so I can cut the shafts to length. We’ll see how they turn out. Anyways, enjoy.
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Wow! Those RCV stub shafts look super nice. That pinion skid looks pretty sweet too!
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- Location
- sacramento
dude looks awesome !
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Thats sexxxy!
- Location
- Encinitas, Ca
You know what they say...once you go brown you'll never turn around! :laugh:
