Teaser Dana 60 Build

DrSockMonkey said:
Sweet! Gonna hook us all up? Group buy?:confused1 And yes, I am kidding.

Did I mention how much MJ 4BTA spent on the swap? over $15K Another guy who did IH Scout 4BT spent $20k
This is way too much money for me. Granted they did everything first class. But still that's alot of dough. Most of the guys on 4BTswaps.com talk about having at least $10k into their swaps. I will admit it is a bad ass motor. I had a 5.9 and love the power. I just don't love it $10k much. My goal is to have my truck the way I want it for as close to $10K total as possible. I have an excel spreadsheet where I track EVERY penny I spend on it from purchase price to every part I buy. Budget Budget Budget :)
Click to expand...


Sale's just sold a Frito-lays truck for $3500.00 with a fresh engine....
 
TNT said:
Sale's just sold a Frito-lays truck for $3500.00 with a fresh engine....
Click to expand...
I have researched this swap to death and am aware of the costs. Let's just leave it at the pluses of the 4BT do not warrant the extra cost or complexity of the swap for me. For others it is clearly worth it. But hey, if all our XJ's were the same what kind of boring world would that be?
 
DrSockMonkey said:
I have researched this swap to death and am aware of the costs. Let's just leave it at the pluses of the 4BT do not warrant the extra cost or complexity of the swap for me. For others it is clearly worth it. But hey, if all our XJ's were the same what kind of boring world would that be?
Click to expand...
we would all drive Barbi Jeeps like they do on JU...:roflmao:
 
Well, sorry no pics right now. But a bit of an update. I created a Electrolysis rust removal tub. Many of you probably already know this method. You get a container big enough for your parts and fill it with water. Add washing soda (sodium carbonate) or Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) put you part in and connect the negative side of your low amperage battery charger (2 amps in my case) to the part you want to have the rust removed. Then you put the positive side on a sacrificial pices of metal in the tub. Keeo in a well ventilated area as this process produces Hydrogen and Oxygen. Can take a day or two, but the results are excellent.

I was unable to find a local shop that did axle resplining. So it looks as though I will have to order some custom alloy shafts. A friend of mine who does welding suggested cutting down the shaft on the flange side and rewelding it. So cut the flange off of one and chucked it up in the lathe. I then bored out the center of the flange so I could slide it over the shaft. I put everything together on the axle for fit and tacked it at the correct length. I will be giving it to him on wednesday to see what he can do in the TIG department. I am not convinced that this is going to work well, however I don't feel it is a safety issue being this is a full floating axle.

Now on to the good news. I have found my new front axle. Let me preface by saying again. This is about building on the cheap doing the work myself. And with that said, I am picking up a 2001 dodge low pinion driverside drop Dana 60 from a 2001 2500HD. He had a dana 80 also but that's just silly :confused1

Down sides
1.ball joint not king pin
2.Unit bearing not wheel bearing. ( I can swap out ford spindls and hubs later to correct this)
3.Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) (I think I will get an eliminator kit)
4.No external lockouts.(see #2)

Now before you say this is a piece of junk I have researched and read many guys who run this axle and abuse it and like it. a ford kingpin HP60 is clearly superior, but it's advantages are not worth the extra cost for me. I will be picking up the D60 on wednesday night. I will post up some pictures. It is a SRW front.


Jeremy
 
JeepFreak21 said:
I'd really like to see the results from the electrolysis tub. What happens to grease and dirt in there?
Thanks,
Billy
Click to expand...
The stuff that was on the rust just floats to the top of the water. You do need to do a little cleaning. The thick greasejust stays on. but surface oils and grease seem to come off.
 
DrSockMonkey said:
Down sides
1.ball joint not king pin
2.Unit bearing not wheel bearing. ( I can swap out ford spindls and hubs later to correct this)
3.Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) (I think I will get an eliminator kit)
4.No external lockouts.(see #2)
Click to expand...

the only down side I see there is the CAD...

I personally wish I could find a way to get unit bearings on my 44...
 
mud1059 said:
Where'd you find that for $250!? I was going to suggest a D50 out of the 98ish-2003ish Superdutys for a cheap build.
Click to expand...
I searched all over the internet looking at dodge forums. I was looking for the knuckles out for another one I found for $150. But found this one for $250 complete local. I am pretty excited. Gonna pick it up tomorrow night. I also found what appears to be a Dana 60HD still dickering price on that one. 35 spline stock would be sweet.
 
Does this look like a Dana 60 HD rear?
nzj8yr.jpg

It looks like it has the second rib. Not sure though.

here is a for sure dana 60 HD with the dual webbing/ribbing on top
D60HDRibs.jpg
 
Last edited:
DrSockMonkey said:
Does this look like a Dana 60 HD rear?
nzj8yr.jpg

It looks like it has the second rib. Not sure though.
Click to expand...

My guess is a HD D70
 
Could be a D60HD, but that picture doesn't help much at all. It might also be a D61... they also have the extra rib.
Is it possible to get the BOM from wherever/whomever you got those pictures from? That'll tell you for sure.
 
I will talk to him tomorrow and see if he can get me BOM #'s and better pics.
Thanks,
Jeremy
RCman said:
Could be a D60HD, but that picture doesn't help much at all. It might also be a D61... they also have the extra rib.
Is it possible to get the BOM from wherever/whomever you got those pictures from? That'll tell you for sure.
Click to expand...
 
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