Teaser Dana 60 Build

[DrSockMonkey]

Here are some pics of the parts in/on the housing

Here are the pucks and rod in the housing.

Here again from different angle.

Here it is with the spindle aligned.

Looks really good. I need to do some clean up on my alignment tools and then I will position everything up and tack it into place. Then it will be off to my neigborhood Welder to have him burn it home. I do not feel confident welding it myself. Mostly because I don't think my 110v welder has got the juice to get good penetration.

 

[XJ_ranger]

all the coolness of a narrowed axle, all the clearance of a d60, all the 30spline ness of a d44...

call up Spidertrax and get some housing ends...
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl;jses...050.e3eSbNyQc3mLe34Pa38Ta38Rchb0?it=A&id=2153

and some unit bearings...

just PLEASE dont run 30 spline stock junk when you've done all the work to run 35 spline...

maybe find some 14bolt spindles?

 

[DrSockMonkey]

all the coolness of a narrowed axle, all the clearance of a d60, all the 30spline ness of a d44...

call up Spidertrax and get some housing ends...
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl;jsessionid=ac112b2a1f436c5fb75d6720442fa971bac2a8668050.e3eSbNyQc3mLe34Pa38Ta38Rchb0?it=A&id=2153

and some unit bearings...

just PLEASE dont run 30 spline stock junk when you've done all the work to run 35 spline...

maybe find some 14bolt spindles?

With a shave it will be clearance of a D44, coolness of a narrowed axle, 30 splineness of a D44, and don't forget Full floating stronger housing. Hey 3 out of 4 aint bad. :laugh3:
Seriously though, Dana 60's are like $50-$75 all day long. At the very worst this is a practice housing. The whole point for me in this type of build is budget. I paid $200 for the axle with 4.88 gears and disc conversion. I would have paid that for the gears and disc conversion. So as I said, at worst this housing is great practice. I've got the tools now and frankly that was some of the most work. To be honest I cannot believe how many people offer their "advice". I've seen your threads so I know you walk the talk. But others seem to have little positive to offer. Anyway I am Really happy with this project as I wanted to see if this was something I could do, turns out I can.

So Anyways...

I decided to go ahead and tack up the drivers side tonight. I chamfered the housing side with a grinder. The grinding went better than I thought, cleaner than I was expecting. IT was a little weird lining everything up and not having the tube be exactly aligned.

I dropped in the carrier and slid on the hub then proceeded to slide in the axle shaft. But for some reason it wouldn't go in in all the way, oh yeah it too long. :laugh3: Everything looks great so far.

Jeremy

 

[JeepFreak21]

WelI, I thought it was obvious, but for you... :dunce:

Weld it all together to make yard art.

I mean the jig setup... wanna rent it out?
Billy

 

[XJ_ranger]

To be honest I cannot believe how many people offer their "advice". I've seen your threads so I know you walk the talk. But others seem to have little positive to offer. Anyway I am Really happy with this project as I wanted to see if this was something I could do, turns out I can.

ahhh... the old 'proof of concept' projects

fair enough...

and what do I really know - Im running stock 31spline ford 9 junk! :dunce:

 

[DrSockMonkey]

Oop! my bad:twak:

Probably be cheaper for you to buy the bar stock and me ship you pucks. I want to make annother set using 1.5" bar stock. More rigidity and better accuracy. I think I will make a new set of pucks/inserts for the non tapered spindles. That way I can keep this set for applications narrower than 1.5".

Jeremy

I mean the jig setup... wanna rent it out?
Billy

 

[DrSockMonkey]

Well, I tacked up the other spindle, didn't look right. ground off the welds and tried again. Looked better but still bothered me. Started to realize that with having both welded on I could bolt on the hubs/rotors and take some measurements. The reality that I could soon find I was not doing as well as I thought started to sink in. Well, I bolted up the rotors and measured all over. Top, Bottom, Back, and in between. Not at the pinion though. The good news is the greatest deviation from any two spots is 3/32. My wife helped me with the Sine Cosine action and using Nasa's Sine table came up with the greatest possible deviation between rotors is .082 of a degree. For my first whack at it I am very pleased.

Taking Measurements

And here is the end WMS 2 WMS result.

60 1/8"

1/8 off of projected but I figure there has to be atleast 1/16" added in how the tape measure is routed to measure WMS. So being within 1/16" of target is satisfying.

Jeremy

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

Well, I tacked up the other spindle, didn't look right. ground off the welds and tried again. Looked better but still bothered me. Started to realize that with having both welded on I could bolt on the hubs/rotors and take some measurements. The reality that I could soon find I was not doing as well as I thought started to sink in. Well, I bolted up the rotors and measured all over. Top, Bottom, Back, and in between. Not at the pinion though. The good news is the greatest deviation from any two spots is 3/32. My wife helped me with the Sine Cosine action and using Nasa's Sine table came up with the greatest possible deviation between rotors is .082 of a degree. For my first whack at it I am very pleased.

Taking Measurements

And here is the end WMS 2 WMS result.

60 1/8"

1/8 off of projected but I figure there has to be atleast 1/16" added in how the tape measure is routed to measure WMS. So being within 1/16" of target is satisfying.

Jeremy

Sweet! when you going to start working on a front?

 

[mud1059]

To be honest I cannot believe how many people offer their "advice"..... But others seem to have little positive to offer.
Jeremy

I admit it, I have doubted you from the beginning, but truth be told it was less than two months ago you were asking for help on a D35 you were scared to open! It's turning out MUCH better than I anticipated though, FWIW.

 

[DrSockMonkey]

Fair enough my friend, I hadn't thought of it in those terms. And thanks.

I admit it, I have doubted you from the beginning, but truth be told it was less than two months ago you were asking for help on a D35 you were scared to open! It's turning out MUCH better than I anticipated though, FWIW.

 

[DrSockMonkey]

Sweet! when you going to start working on a front?

I can't decide whether to go HPD44 or D60. I want go D60 but budget is the key. I don't think I want to buy aftermarket parts like knuckles, or housings but who knows. I found a Dodge D60 2001 for cheap but it's got the CAD on it. Low pinion doesn't bother me so much cause the Dana 60 is the Highest low pinion and the lowest high pinion. The pinion is within a couple inches of centerline. I am waiting to hear back on a HP44 HD. I think that is the way I will go if the guy still has it. Who knows... I will keep my eyes open. One thing is for sure, I will look DAMN stupid rolling with a Dana 60 rear and a Dana 30 front :laugh:

Jeremy

Oh and a design update, I plan on machining the back of the hubs so I can press on tone rings and keep my ABS. I know most don't like it, but this is my daily driver and I want things to still work like stock. I will have a switch to turn off ABS if I want when wheeling as I have heard many say they don't like it.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

maybe find some 14bolt spindles?

since this is on the theme of junkyard build and you obviously have the ability with your brother to do it....why don't you grab 14bolt spindles and have 14bolt shafts cut down? 14bolt ff's are a dime a dozen...

cool build! carry on

 

[DrSockMonkey]

since this is on the theme of junkyard build and you obviously have the ability with your brother to do it....why don't you grab 14bolt spindles and have 14bolt shafts cut down? 14bolt ff's are a dime a dozen...

cool build! carry on

Interesting idea, what are the implications with spline count and 14Bolt working with which carrier? Also, what is the shaft size?

 

[CanMan]

since this is on the theme of junkyard build and you obviously have the ability with your brother to do it....why don't you grab 14bolt spindles and have 14bolt shafts cut down? 14bolt ff's are a dime a dozen...

cool build! carry on

The way the 14 bolt shafts neck down some after the splines, will make it hard to have them be 1.5" 35 spline shafts.

You could have a D60 carrier machined somehow to accept a 14 bolt side spider gear, and leave them 1.5" 30 spl axles. You might be able to use 2 short side 14 bolt shafts, and be at the width you want. Moser and Dutchman make alloy 14 bolt shafts, you may be able to get them to make you some narrowed ones

You will want DRW hubs. With SRW ones, you may have to narrow the axle even more. SRW hubs are 1.75" per side wider.

.

 

[TNT]

Well I have been looking at 3 different diesels.
Cummins 4BTA 3.9 TD
Izuzu 4BD1T 3.9 TD
GM 6.2l or 6.5l TD

Cummins is too big in IMO 762lbs
Isuzu is OK but heavey 700 ish lbs
GM V8 is Big but lighter and requires no Adapters. -700lbs
I fear the 6.5L Turbo would be too big with the turbo. But I can hook it up to a 700r4 then to a Chevy S10 np231c. This is ALL still in the planning stage.

I will have to research the custom front 60.

Best engine of the bunch is the Cummins 4BTA 3.9 TD.

Here is one sweet rig.

Cummins MJ burnout

Cummins MJ build-up link

 

[DrSockMonkey]

Yeah I've talked to the owner and studied his build on 4btswaps.com. I just think it is too heavy and too tall. Not to mention Pricey Noisey and lotsa vibrations I still think it would be a great swap though. I'm going for budget and with that GM Diesels, it's cheaper, lighter, and doesn't require costly adapters.

Best engine of the bunch is the Cummins 4BTA 3.9 TD.

Here is one sweet rig.

Cummins MJ burnout

Cummins MJ build-up link

 

[TNT]

Yeah I've talked to the owner and studied his build on 4btswaps.com. I just think it is too heavy and too tall. Not to mention Pricey Noisey and lotsa vibrations I still think it would be a great swap though. I'm going for budget and with that GM Diesels, it's cheaper, lighter, and doesn't require costly adapters.

Thats not that much extra weight. Add a beefy bumper and a 9500 winch to a 4.0 engine and its about the same. My bumper alone weighs 110#'s... That weight is also way further forward.

I like the fact that it is a real hd built diesel that will go 300-600k if maintained correctly and not built too much.

If I go with a diesel I want it to sound like one.

Vibrations chicks dig them.
Price? I work an an International dealer so it would be the cheapest for me.

I like the 200+ hp and 500#+ of torque and mid 20's to 30 mpg.:cheers:

 

[DrSockMonkey]

Sounds like too much work. I think I will just do another housing. Maybe the next one will be 14 bolt?

The way the 14 bolt shafts neck down some after the splines, will make it hard to have them be 1.5" 35 spline shafts.

You could have a D60 carrier machined somehow to accept a 14 bolt side spider gear, and leave them 1.5" 30 spl axles. You might be able to use 2 short side 14 bolt shafts, and be at the width you want. Moser and Dutchman make alloy 14 bolt shafts, you may be able to get them to make you some narrowed ones

You will want DRW hubs. With SRW ones, you may have to narrow the axle even more. SRW hubs are 1.75" per side wider.

.

 

[DrSockMonkey]

Vibrations chicks dig them.
Price? I work an an International dealer so it would be the cheapest for me.

Sweet! Gonna hook us all up? Group buy?:confused1 And yes, I am kidding.

Did I mention how much MJ 4BTA spent on the swap? over $15K Another guy who did IH Scout 4BT spent $20k
This is way too much money for me. Granted they did everything first class. But still that's alot of dough. Most of the guys on 4BTswaps.com talk about having at least $10k into their swaps. I will admit it is a bad ass motor. I had a 5.9 and love the power. I just don't love it $10k much. My goal is to have my truck the way I want it for as close to $10K total as possible. I have an excel spreadsheet where I track EVERY penny I spend on it from purchase price to every part I buy. Budget Budget Budget

 

[TNT]

Sounds like too much work. I think I will just do another housing. Maybe the next one will be 14 bolt?

Just get the C&C DRW 14 bolt 63" wide and you won't need to narrow it. A front king pin HP D60 can be narrower to about 63" at the most. They would be perfect for the torque output.

BTW, I just passed on a '87 DRW HP D60 for $400.00. I posted it here but no buddy wanted it so I think it's going on craigs list...

I'm sticking with my 4.0 and using my '77 HP D44 front with a 9" rear that I got for $220.00. I'm building for speed and ride quality is a prerunner type build.