...sorry...another build thread...

I never got back to you, the car is here and sitting in my garage. You can swing down and try our seats out anytime.

I'll be gone this weekend though, KOH.
 
I figured you would be busy with KOH.
Ill try to make it down soon after you get back and test out the seats.
 
I think Jes and I are doing lunch Sunday, i've got some parts for him to grab (I'll get back saturday night).
 
We don't run a sternum strap. A lot of people seem to think they can lead to more harm than good, and really, we've never identified a need for one.

Not trying to start an E debate buddy, but I highly recommend the sternum strap. My good friend and his now wife split their heads open because they hit the cage during a pretty violent roll. He had about 4" between his head and the cage and she had more.

For reference the pics and his take on it are here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/828976-official-mobil1syn-building-truck-thread-11.html

and on page 12.
 
Not trying to start an E debate buddy, but I highly recommend the sternum strap. My good friend and his now wife split their heads open because they hit the cage during a pretty violent roll. He had about 4" between his head and the cage and she had more.

For reference the pics and his take on it are here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/828976-official-mobil1syn-building-truck-thread-11.html

and on page 12.

Sounds like a cage issue rather than a sternum strap issue.
 
Im going to be moving the B pillars back, but not too far, they are basically into the seats as they are now.

I am going to be running PRP 5 point ratcheting harness in the driver with a PRP competition pro seat (35" tall) and probably end up going +4 on that as well to make it 39", along with snowboard helmets in the rig.

Pass seat will get my crow 5 point with the sternum strap/shoulder pads in the pass seat for the mean time and eventually get a ratcheting harness - with either a PRP competition seat at 35" , or a 35" +4 seat as well since some of my friends are as tall as me.
 
Hooked up the 220V so I can finally use the hobart 190. Its a nice machine.
nice new 8 gauge extension cord:











Also ordered one of these Cut 50s
 
Last edited:
Mike I cant thank you enough for the help wiring up the 220V ! Thanks a ton dude.
 
Now you need to build a little welding cart.
 
The best advice I ever got was to drop a lot on a plasma, so much more time is spent cutting and cleaning up after a cut, then the burning it back together.
 
The best advice I ever got was to drop a lot on a plasma, so much more time is spent cutting and cleaning up after a cut, then the burning it back together.

Ive heard this too. This purchase is not going to move me off my timeline to buy a nice hobart plasma, but that is still 2 years out.

This thing will help out somewhat in the short run, and I am sure as long as it still works by then ill get a 100$ out of it in working condition...
 
So the Cheap Cut50 plasma cutter that is said to be 220v came with a 110v plug???

Any ideas? Also, the gauge of the wires in the cord coming off the thing seems extremely small

Anyone have any ideas?

I cut it out to wire it to a 220v plug, I have the 3 prong 50 amp plug in the wall for the welder...

 
Is it switching 110v/220v? I have seen a few things in tech that run on 110 or 220 and share a plug, but they have all been auto switching devices that can work in the us or eu.
 
Is it switching 110v/220v? I have seen a few things in tech that run on 110 or 220 and share a plug, but they have all been auto switching devices that can work in the us or eu.


we use a ton of stuff in lighting that is auto-ranging. but they will be labeled generally and they usually come with a 220v capable connector on them
 
Jon you could've just used a step down... 220v to 110 we use em all the time at work

Didnt know those existed. Thought they were considered dangerous?


just got back from Depot with a 50 AMP plug. going to wire it up.
 




 
 
Back
Top