...sorry...another build thread...

rockclimber said:
Rear Brakes that big are for tow pigs

I know a number of people running 8.8 brakes on 1 ton axles with 37"-40" tires with great success.
Click to expand...

So after more research the rears are only 2.75" pistons (C502, C503 at auto zone) , so that helps somewhat since I thought they where 3", that is the one ton version-these are the 3/4 ton version. But yes, they are huge a lot of guys consider these a front brake upgrade, but I already run 3" front calipers(thunderbird calipers) . I agree that 8.8 rear discs would be more than fine. Maybe next time...

#S194 said:
Jon, I thought you were going to run an adjustable prportioning valve? If you are you shouldnt have to change your calipers.
Click to expand...

I am going to run an adjustable prop valve. But you can only get so far with an adjustable proportioning valve and if that doesn't do it then ill have to go smaller with the calipers- only if need be. Adjusting the rear pressure down can get to the point where if you decrease rear brake pressure too much that you might get understeer and drive off a cliff when going down steep hills, say on gravel. thats an extreme situation that is unlikely but understeer can happen with too little rear pressure. But, so is flopping your rig going to prairie city just 20 minutes from your house on a saturday morning, so in my eyes everything is now a possibility. I am hoping to use the adjustable wilwood valve to get the rear brakes to lock up, then back it off quite a bit, but not too much but more than normal. Ill be doing a ton of test runs at some safe rural location or something like that to dial it in.


in addition to the pirate thread, there was like 30 other websites I read, this slideshow was interesting, seemed high level enough but still gets you acquainted with the basics I guess.

http://www.slideshare.net/rohansahdev/dynamic-weight-transfer-in-vehicle


this one here had the best visualization for me on weight transfer under severe braking, slide about 3/4 of the way down shading the front of the car compared to the bottom of the car:
http://www.ip-zev.gr/files/teaching/T3-4_Lateral_longitudinal_dynamics.pdf

here is a print screen if this is under normal braking, imagine under severe braking, with the front nosing down and the front compressing. :



I don't fully understand it all yet, but I need to read up more on anti dive and anti squat under braking.

Either way, the lower the COG the better...
 
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the thing used to be pretty straight and clean:

 
Skipper51 said:
Many people here have said that they wish they had never gone past 33" tires because of so many thing that can happen.
Click to expand...

myself included. When I build a second rig it will be based around 3" of lift and 33s. It will probable still get a cage too.
 
Yep, I dont plan on going over 33s. After my new set of tires wear out, I might go to 35s but that is a max for me (as the current plan goes at least)
 
I was feeling like wrenching last night and did some brake work.

Finished grinding down drier side rear caliper (a series of spray painting the rim, installing, removing, seeing where the black paint is,and grinding until no more black paint hits, it takes forever).

I plan to knock out the passenger side tonight.

pulled WJ stuff out and removed the prop valve. the WJ booster and master and very short



driver side seat is out real quick:



drilling out 95-96 booster for renix stuff, and also ground the tip down flat.


new 96 booster and 77 mercury grand marquis with rear discs master cylinder with wilwood prop valve.

 
That looks really good Jon. Nice and clean!
 
I just realized the auto zone idiot got me the wrong MC. Its a drum brake setup, not a disc brake setup. Ugh. Ill have to return it now.
 
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the silverback aint going anywhere but a new rig that will get built into mild status is approaching soon....
 
I keep hearing from different members that they wish they had stopped at -------------

I guess you come to a point where you can over build your rig and you wish for the simpler days. I would have never thought that you could over build but it does crop up once in a while.

The good news is we get to hear about another rig being built and capture ideas for our own rig at the same time.

Good luck with your new girl.
 
Silverback will just get more shit beaten out of it when it does get wheeled and this second rig will be what I wheel when the silverback is down ...
 
looking for feedback:

35"x12.5x15 BFG ATs are only 54 pounds each and 180$ each -34.7"
33"x12.5x15 wrangler MTRs are 60 pounds and 205$ each and measure 32.8"

basically the BFGs are taller ,lighter, and cheaper, any input?

and then there is this information:
35" BFG ATs are only 54 pounds each and 180$ each -34.7"
33 wrangler MTRs are 60 pounds and 205$ each and measure 32.8"
33" BFG ats are 53 pounds, 32.7" tall, and 169$
32" mud terrains are 190$ ends up being 700$ lighter and cheaper
33x10.5x15 KM2 are 190$ each and would fit easier, only weigh 49 pounds each, 190$ each
there is a 60$ rebate with goodyear tires right now so the 33" and 32" kevlars look really good right now.

ill probably go with a 3.75" or 4" BS in like a black bart rim, but then again, If I went super narrow maybe I could run the stock rims...
 
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