...sorry...another build thread...

[Letterman]

Bolts on both sides, not sure if they are same pattern as the XJ

Looks like 11.5 inches on center front to back and 11 3/8 inches side to side

 

[blondejoncherokee]

I don't mind drilling holes into the floor. so the bottom bolts bolt directly to the floor or to a XJ seat base? I have no problem fabricating anything. I have a buddy with some manual seats that he might give me to canibolize the bases.

 

[turbobrick]

Those slides would need to go onto a base. But, being Mastercraft they should bolt right to the seats, so that is great.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Ok i get it now.

 

[Letterman]

For my seats, because the TJ sliders move forward and up to get in the back seat I fabled up the stock sliders to fit the seats. It was a pain, but it worked:

 

[Bryan C.]

these harnesses are tempting for the price

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-9210cd/overview/

and these too:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=14KW29A2TKPKQDWZNJN0

Spend a few extra bucks and get the shoulder harnesses with the sewn on pads. It is well worth it.

 

[Mike1331]

yes sewn in pads are a must, both my trucks have padded harnesses and they feel 20 times better than the trucks i get in without the pads. And jon don't get the camlocks, in an offroad vehicle they get dirty inside and stick. I hate the camlocks in every car i've been in with them, that actually gets used that is... Maybe in a dragster or a pavement pounder but i would never run them in a ride dedicated for the dirt.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

so what else could cause rear brakes to lock up:

-too much pressure going to the rear (get a wilwood prop valve to reduce rear braking)
-air in the lines (found a leaky line that we tightened up)
-bad caliper

anything else? booster/master combo? front brakes acting up?


I think the rear brakes locking up caused more problems than the steering did, although the steering is so much better now.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

yes sewn in pads are a must, both my trucks have padded harnesses and they feel 20 times better than the trucks i get in without the pads. And jon don't get the camlocks, in an offroad vehicle they get dirty inside and stick. I hate the camlocks in every car i've been in with them, that actually gets used that is... Maybe in a dragster or a pavement pounder but i would never run them in a ride dedicated for the dirt.

ok good to know. Ill get the pads for sure then.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Here is something I am trying to think through, if the rear end was not locking up(instead of locking up) , air in the lines, bad caliper, etc, then would the rear end push me around under heavy braking ?
maybe that is why it whipped around passenger side when everything went down? I have new calipers ready to go in, and found a leaky brake line, so My thoughts are that the rear wasn't stopping, whereas the front was dead stopping, and so the rear getting the torque was still pushing through, and at 45-50mph it becomes dangerous?

I will slap the new calipers in after I grind them down and bleed the thing good, and maybe add in a proportioning valve(wilwood adjustable) and gut the stock valve and lines setup.

 

[831_xj]

Ram 2500 master cyl and a gc proportioning valve is what I have. I think you're on the right track

 

[blondejoncherokee]

so from my research the fronts locking up put you in a straight line, whereas the rears locking up make you fishtail, which is what happened to me. I am going to get new pads in addition to the new calipers I think to try to nip it in the butt. I am going to reduce pressure to the rear to see if that helps as well with a wilwood prop valve. I also think dropping the front end down around 4" will help stability.

also ordering little mini bolt on D rings to help strap down the entire internal cargo space.

 

[turbobrick]

I would agree that locking the fronts leads to understeer and locking the rears leads to oversteer. But, you can get oversteer like behavior from poor weight transfer or improper spring/shock conditions. If the nose comes down under braking, the rear will get light especially if the shocks and springs aren't doing their job, keeping rubber on the road.

This is one of the main reasons I run a traction bar, they help keep the chassis stable just as much as they prevent hop under acceleration.

Jon, since your memory of the event is slightly clouded, it would be wise IMHO to let a suspension pro look over your set up and see if anything jumps out at them. Sometimes us amateur mechanical engineers need a hand, I'd hate to see this issue rear is ugly head again.

 

[831_xj]

Snag some tie downs from a ZJ or WJ from the JY I have them all over my rear. Some even hold my spare tire with just self tappers and a ratchet strap. Otherwise home depot sells them also. Look into there tie downs/ratchet section.

 

[831_xj]

You can really only pull the two from the side of each zj or wj or you can drill out the rivets from the ones on the floor

 

[blondejoncherokee]

I would agree that locking the fronts leads to understeer and locking the rears leads to oversteer. But, you can get oversteer like behavior from poor weight transfer or improper spring/shock conditions. If the nose comes down under braking, the rear will get light especially if the shocks and springs aren't doing their job, keeping rubber on the road.

This is one of the main reasons I run a traction bar, they help keep the chassis stable just as much as they prevent hop under acceleration.

Jon, since your memory of the event is slightly clouded, it would be wise IMHO to let a suspension pro look over your set up and see if anything jumps out at them. Sometimes us amateur mechanical engineers need a hand, I'd hate to see this issue rear is ugly head again.

Good call. Ill get someone to look it over.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

good call patrick, and turbo you make a good point. I am going to try to have someone check it out and do some sort of inspection.
I have no idea where to take it to though in the sacramento area, maybe WFO?


I slapped on new rear pads and calipers tonight and bled the brakes, and replaced a fried leaf bushing.

I ordered the wilwood prop valve today and plan to plumb it inline to the rear to reduce rear braking a bit.

the booster makes a billowing sort of noise, maybe it needs to be replaced ? I have a 1996 booster and might try a dodge van master, remove the XJ prop valve, have the fronts go straight in and the rear line will get the wilwood valve. so much work...


old fried bushings:






new pass side caliper and pads:


gravity bleeding the calipers off the mouths since I have to mount them upside down:


new leaf bushing, when we replaced the exhaust we noticed the exhaust was pointed directly at the rear leaf bushing. I might swap the shackle bushings too. I just realized that as I am typing they might be done too.

 

[jeepme]

WOW looks like Barbie hacked out a lung uke:

 

[cal]

gravity bleeding the calipers off the mouths since I have to mount them upside down:

Instead of gravity bleeding them, stick a 2x4 (or anything near the right size) into both calipers and then bleed them traditionally. I have to do the same thing on my car, it gets way better results.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Instead of gravity bleeding them, stick a 2x4 (or anything near the right size) into both calipers and then bleed them traditionally. I have to do the same thing on my car, it gets way better results.

Im not gonna lie thats my normal approach after a gravity bleed. Ive been so busy just knocking out what i can when i can. I eint drive it until the brakes are butoned up. I just ordered a 77 grand marquis master cylinder and just got the wilwood prop valve in the mail along with a mastercraft nomad seat. Ill be instaling the grand mc with new lines and doing a full bleed traditional style after all that nonsense .