blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
i ended up pulling out the rear quarter windows to fully weld the legs in from both sides.
...sorry...another build thread...
- Thread starter blondejoncherokee
- Start date
i ended up pulling out the rear quarter windows to fully weld the legs in from both sides.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
i wouldn't mind doing an engine cage sometime, shock hoops, cut out the inner fenders and relocate some stuff, rear tube fenders, and some tube coming off the 2x6 rockers.
building an 8.8 rear , 4.88s, chromos, truss, ruffstuff cover, new brakes, 31 spline chromos with c clip eliminator, on the side for the rear, and looking into building a narrowed ford hp60, possibly spooled as well.
building an 8.8 rear , 4.88s, chromos, truss, ruffstuff cover, new brakes, 31 spline chromos with c clip eliminator, on the side for the rear, and looking into building a narrowed ford hp60, possibly spooled as well.
Last edited:
JeepFreak21
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cameron Park, CA
Woo Hoo! Looks good Jon!
Billy
Billy
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
XJ now has a 21" belly, if i where to lift the rear to match the front it would be a full 21", right now its like 20.75".
just slapped some 37s on tonight, had to pull pinion seal off , again, when re shimming the outer pinion bearing i forgot to install outer pinion bearing oil slinger, threw a new seal and pinion nut on too.
also pulled coils and threw the coil isolators back on. the freaking thing makes terrible noises without them, not as fun. the rear sits low. time to link the rear i think.
worked on the willys all day too. took a while to get it running. the spring metal thing that holds the float to the needle coming into the carb was all bent and not letting enough fuel in, almost none, hate adjusting floats when i have no idea what vehicle the carb came off.
and the float was bent like an idiot, so i threw the old float in, new cap and rotor, new ignition coil, 4 gallons of gas, and its running again. heat wrapped the fuel lines and did a bunch of other stuff. front driver caliper is leaking, need to figure out whats up and go from there.
changed brakes on roomates car, and threw a bunch of smog stuff on the XJ.
just slapped some 37s on tonight, had to pull pinion seal off , again, when re shimming the outer pinion bearing i forgot to install outer pinion bearing oil slinger, threw a new seal and pinion nut on too.
also pulled coils and threw the coil isolators back on. the freaking thing makes terrible noises without them, not as fun. the rear sits low. time to link the rear i think.
worked on the willys all day too. took a while to get it running. the spring metal thing that holds the float to the needle coming into the carb was all bent and not letting enough fuel in, almost none, hate adjusting floats when i have no idea what vehicle the carb came off.
and the float was bent like an idiot, so i threw the old float in, new cap and rotor, new ignition coil, 4 gallons of gas, and its running again. heat wrapped the fuel lines and did a bunch of other stuff. front driver caliper is leaking, need to figure out whats up and go from there.
changed brakes on roomates car, and threw a bunch of smog stuff on the XJ.
REVROK
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spring Creek, NV
You gonna get this?
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
actually I think ill pass on it, after running the numbers, i might as well build a hp60 front. If you need to dump it I can find someone that will use it though.
ill try to get pics with 37s later .
Rob707
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- sacramento
Soon to be linked in the rear....
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
yes i will be copying his setup.
i need some stock XJ coils or some ZJ coils.
I'm pricing out 2" DOM, and unless we get a big group buy, ill probably just grab lower link tube(2" .250 wall) at ruffstuff.
i need some stock XJ coils or some ZJ coils.
I'm pricing out 2" DOM, and unless we get a big group buy, ill probably just grab lower link tube(2" .250 wall) at ruffstuff.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
well if i am working out a deal. but i would ballpark it :
ruffstuff 4 link kit: 750$(this kit can vary in price depending on what you get)
DOM 200- 250$
coils 0$-100$
basically looking at 1000$ id say for DOM, good , big hems, coil buckets, upper and lower mounts for frame and axle side, belly pan, coils, DOM , medium truss for upper link mounts, and more stuff I'm sure.
I'm looking forward to taking a lot of the weird unloading and stress off the rear, fixing axle wrap, etc with the rear 4 link, as well as better stability on climbs and off camber situations.
ruffstuff 4 link kit: 750$(this kit can vary in price depending on what you get)
DOM 200- 250$
coils 0$-100$
basically looking at 1000$ id say for DOM, good , big hems, coil buckets, upper and lower mounts for frame and axle side, belly pan, coils, DOM , medium truss for upper link mounts, and more stuff I'm sure.
I'm looking forward to taking a lot of the weird unloading and stress off the rear, fixing axle wrap, etc with the rear 4 link, as well as better stability on climbs and off camber situations.
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
If your going to have all this going on i say we get a trailor and tow your junk down to the hammers while its still there
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
brakes suck right now pulled the 37s off and put 35s back on. ordered EBC yellow stuff pads and some nice raybestos rotors. gonne bleed the system a ton more and see how it goes. cant wait for the yellow stuff pads and new rotors, then maybe ill throw the super heavy 37s back on. man they make 35s seem like 215/55/15s on stock rims.
also fixed some major steering box creaking.
just throwing a heads up out there for others who might have this same issue.
So ive had this creaking and popping from my steering box area. thought maybe i had a cracked frame rail. weird since i have a 4 bolt box, inner 4 bolt plate, across frame box brace, and a track bar across brace from rubicon as well. thing is super braced up.
creaking was driving me nuts knowing all of this.
everything was super tight, box, trackbar, cranked it all down numerous times. still creaking . weird.
anyway, so i got the box off, and no cracks, confused, scratch my head, about to throw box back on, and i noticed the u joint (little teeny baby thing) on the shaft from the column to the box had play in it. side to side play. luckily i have 4 spare shafts from the column to the box, 2 more had a tiny bit of play, 2 seemed tight. i used the tightest one. no more creaking after i threw it all back together. crazy. that was causing it. dont go replacing your box just yet, check that sector shaft. usually need to pull the box off to do it though.
also fixed some major steering box creaking.
just throwing a heads up out there for others who might have this same issue.
So ive had this creaking and popping from my steering box area. thought maybe i had a cracked frame rail. weird since i have a 4 bolt box, inner 4 bolt plate, across frame box brace, and a track bar across brace from rubicon as well. thing is super braced up.
creaking was driving me nuts knowing all of this.
everything was super tight, box, trackbar, cranked it all down numerous times. still creaking . weird.
anyway, so i got the box off, and no cracks, confused, scratch my head, about to throw box back on, and i noticed the u joint (little teeny baby thing) on the shaft from the column to the box had play in it. side to side play. luckily i have 4 spare shafts from the column to the box, 2 more had a tiny bit of play, 2 seemed tight. i used the tightest one. no more creaking after i threw it all back together. crazy. that was causing it. dont go replacing your box just yet, check that sector shaft. usually need to pull the box off to do it though.
- Location
- Dublin California
Jon
I have the EBC yellow stuff pads and they do work great, but make sure you do the break in procedure that they tell you, or you will not be happy. Also they are racing pads so they work better as they get warmer.
I have the EBC yellow stuff pads and they do work great, but make sure you do the break in procedure that they tell you, or you will not be happy. Also they are racing pads so they work better as they get warmer.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
thats good to know jeff. thanks for the heads up. i didn't realize that.
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
Good point about the sector shaft. I have the same setup with some poping. Ill take a look at the sector shaft.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
yah it was driving me nuts so i pulled the box ready to weld up a cracked frame rail. frame was great, everything seemed great, but that u joint at the box was sliding back and forth, whereas I found one or 2 good ones in my pile of parts that didn't move back and forth so I swapped one on. so far no more creaking and popping. Of course, it could come back if it is the internals in the box, but i doubt it.
CAJJ93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Roseville, CA
dude did you get anything from ruffstuff last weekend? my buddy walked out of there with everything for a 4 link except DOM for $400
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
WTF really thats killer. what size hems for the lowers ?
