...sorry...another build thread...

I wanna say 7/8 I think. he's only doing heims on 1 end. those guys at ruffstuff are awesome they have a swap meet coming up I want to go to
here's the junk he got. he's swapping an 8.8 in his TJ

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thats how he kept it cheap. didn't do 1.25 hems at both ends(way more expensive) doing the bushings at one end greatly reduces costs, by a few hundred. also, no DOM reduces costs, DOM should end up being another 200$ easy. still 600$ is good.
 
I'm planning on 7/8"s hiems for now, maybe down the road ill go for 1.25" ...
 
i really want to build a 60, but i recently found a potential part out rig with a 44 that could be a good platform. just add knuckle gussets, full upper and lower truss, RCVs, and maybe call it good? i dunno.
 
A dana 44 with RCV's would be plenty Jon. I really dont think you need a 60. link to the craigslist ad?
 
kevin i think a trussed 44 on RCVs would be plenty.
 
I got some 36" Bias Iroks.

clearance 35 pro comp extreme terrains to 36 iroks:

front diff :11" -> 12"
rear diff (shaved hi9) : 10"-> 11"
belly pan: 19.5-> 20.5"
weight 65 pounds -> 66 pounds

in the mail from a dude on pirate:
WJ knuckles, WJ steering, WJ brakes (for cores)

In the mail from alljeep.com
WJ ball joints

Ill need to buy:
new akebono calipers and caliper brackets,
pads for akebono,
WJ rotors and re drill
OTK insert for driver side- run currie steering as is, probably install my drop pitman arm to decrease operating angle at pitman arm TRE , esp at droop.

the dude that I got the tires from was running WJ brakes and he had no problem stopping on a dime with these tires. I was very Jelly. he was also running the stock style currie steering as well .

Also ordered brown dog engine side motor mount plate things for aftermarket headers.




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Im gonna run the 10" rims they are on for now but plan on putting these on my 8" rims asap.
 
Looks tits Jon. I dig 'em. I cant believe they're that light weight.

^^^ supuh jelly
 
got all WJ brake stuff in the mail. I know it will clear with the current rims on the 36s, but I am not sure if it will when I throw them on the 8" rims. the 10" rims stick out real wide, and cleared the other guys WJ brake setup just fine. I just dont want to run 10" wide rims.

Going with the akebono calipers/pads/mounting brackets/etc since they are way bigger which means way more stopping power.

and ordered these so I dont have to worry about redrilling the WJ rotors and it will also save time and money, since i was paying close to 100$ shipped for stock WJ rotors, and I still had to drill them out. Also picked up TJ hubs. front end should be nice and tight after this:

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...de=IROR&Product_Code=IR-WFDSBR&Category_Code=
 
to put 35s in perspective,
I know its not just weight, I know its also leverage, I also know its all about clearance and not flooring it with a 35 up a ledge when a 39 will do it with less gas therefore less breakage due to not getting stuck on the undercut.


TOYO 35/12.5/15 m/t weigh 79.6 pounds,
39/13.5/15 irok bias ply -76 pounds

now add a lighter rim versus a Heavy steel rim and you are looking really light. all wheel discs and A WJ break setup, even with the extra leverage, I would imagine one could stop pretty easily on 39s.
 
threw on some performance plug wires i got from summit racing, 8.2mm, seems like it has much more pep over the old 7mm. i also threw on a new napa ignition coil since i was wanting to replace the old auto zone one along time ago. these 2 together seem to add some balls . it pulls the 36s no problem. plus they should complement the new headers when they finally get on...

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JKS spacers and WJ ball joints and tj unit bearings
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WJ calipers are huge
dual piston
but the pads are actually almost the exact same size as the XJ. i measured both with dial calipers, within a few thousands.
but the rotors are way bigger and the dual caliper pistons should be nice...
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still in the mail? I hope the guy shipped. found em on pirate . lived in virgina i think?
 
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