...sorry...another build thread...

so i have running some numbers on the WJ and it doesnt look like the best idea since itll cost a nice chunk of change and its only the front axle:

knuckles and spacers from a naxja member 180
calipers 75
caliper brackets 44$
misc hardware 20
rotors and pads on ebay 80
steering (TREs and tie rod and drag link sleeves) 180+spare sleeves+30
WJ ball joints 100
track bar relocation bracket 50
cut up and re weld trackbar-
3 go fer it inserts 51

-809$

i can get centric premium rotors/calipers/pads for the front and centric premium /rotors /pads for the 9" 8.8 discs for 300 plus shipping from rockauto
30$ for go fer it knuckle inserts

so 300 for front and rear or 809 just for the front
 
Rammin97 said:
I'm keeping the 6 lug for the big bearing spindles and to match my rodeo rear. Revrok is doing a Waggy 44 too. He is doing the spindle swap so he can keep the a 5 on 4.5. I think he has an 8.8 out back. Where were you this weekend? you coulda came out and watched me make an ass out of myself open/open on DV..:farmer:
Click to expand...

Actually I pulled the rotor and hub apart and the rotor opening is too wide for 5 on 4.5... I am going to call EMS and see what they use, if it is small bearing I am going 6 lug too and use conversion spacers in the back. The small bearing 5 on 5.5 is more expensive and the parts as well as the wheels are harder to come by now. 6 lug wheels are common as dirt. But, Jon you should really consider Dana 44... I am going to be into a lunchbox locked TnT trussed 44 with the right gears for $1200 (I am including an estimate for some used wheels).
 
first early night in a while. threw some 4* shims on the rear to kick the rear pinion back down a little since it was pointing way up. now its about even. 6* would have been better oh well. i need a new digital camera so i can take pics.
 
ordered 3 go fer it inserts today. one for the willys, one for the XJ, one for a spare in case i screw something up.
 
got the damn rear drain plug up in the rear diff tonight(over tightened it, the plating is super thin)
took over an hour to patiently get it back out. otherwise i was gonna have to pull the damn third and shafts when i thought i was doing a 15 minute rear diff fluid change ...

tightened up loose trackbar and sway bar bolts. should have disco'd the sway bar on DV this last weekend. i liked the fully locked front but missed the droop from the 5.5 " coils since they let the front end sit at least 2" higher and therefore more down travel. ill most likely be throwing them back on soon. real soon after deer valley. i should have disco'd the sway bars as well. that was dumb. i was just being lazy.
the only thing is i really like the super flat steering angles with the re 4.5 coils. trade offs tradeoffs trade offs...

got the go fer it inserts in the mail so the driver side will be going OTK soon.
picked up a set of big drill bits from harbor freight including the 3/4" bit for the go ferit inserts

also got brand new premium centric calipers and pads from rock auto for dirt cheap all brand new... like 60$ shipped or something , not reman calipers....

also got a 15/16" 10 spline clutch alignment tool for 2$ on RA for the t90 to go back in the willys and threaded and cut a rod for a new push rod for the 1980 cj5 slave cylinder im going to throw on the willys now.

nothing big since the lp30/truss/lcas skids thrown in a few weeks ago.

decided id rather spend money on a fully built hp30 instead of WJ knuckle swap or start building a 44. i really like the idea of buying Joses 30 and i want to...

ill be hitting picknpul for a taurus fan sometime soon and a bigger tranny cooler and ill be throwing a power steering cooler back on soon...
 
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my neighbors WJ got smahed up. im going to ask her is she is sending to the the JY if i an pull the front knuckles/steering/calipers/brakes etc if i swap something on there so it can sitll be towed to the JY.

also jus threw brand new calipers and pads up front and bled the brakes. super nice.
centric premium calipers (new) and centric premium pads for dirt cheap on rock auto.
cant wait to wheel this weekend.

also plan on trussing the bottom half of the lp30 soon.

and then maybe build a driver drop waggy 44 next.
 
Hustle and that shit brotha...

I can't make it out this weekend, i gotta work the EURO Sunday car show our company is hosting.

If shit hits the fan and you don't go i just got some free tics to folsom live, so your welcome to one.
 
did some work recently.

pulled sway bars off.
handling too good on tight turns off and on the freeway at high and slow speeds to leave them on.

threw the tie rod over the knuckle and the tie rod was hitting bad a not even full lock on the axle side driver side sway bar mount cut it up and hammered it up for now.

threw a fan clutch back on(had a full time solid fan on, taking away lots of power)
threw a brand new fan shroud on too. thatll help. had no fan shroud.
lifted the back of the hood up about 1/2" too with some spacers.

also threw some electrostatically cleaned ford 19# injectors in, mine where Ebay used ones. also threw new o2 sensor, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, oil and filter, sea foamed the intake, new air filter, new top of air box(old one was collapsing at intake tube) and flushed radiator. running real good.

also plan to build a sweet tire carrier off the rear bumper i built. ill post pics of the build. ill be using RS brackets etc and some steel from blue collar most likely.

i also plan on relocating the trackbar over the axle, about 6 inches higher to raise my roll center as well as flatten out the trackbar angles. should greatly increase handling and stability in off camber situations as well as not have a real impact on road since ill keep it parrallel with the drag link and ill just be shortening it about 3 inches or so. should be nice. ill be going back to dan at RS for the brackets.

trackbar length, roll canter, and being parrallel to drag link are all compromises often for on/off road differences. i plan to make the best compromise possible while still being parrallel.


need to mount the 35s to the beadlocks soon too. the beadlocks are jsut sitting there.

going to be ordering about 120 feet of DOM over the winter to start the exo/hybrid cage as well. all the B,C,D pillars will go throw the roof, but with a Halo over the entire roof with a cross bar to support the tire cage thatll probably be holding a 37" tire soon enough.

im going to truss the bottom of the 30 when i get bored some sunday, and im going to tie a truss into the RS diff cover that will bolt to the current d30 axles truss that is welded up when i beef it up.

ill also be adding in a rear ladder bar and a rear centered limit strap and a front centered limit strap as well pretty soon.


http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv267/blondejoncherokee/P1010929.jpg
 
P1010929.jpg
 
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before welding top and bottom. picked up a harbor freight drill bit kit with everything fro 9/16 to 1". went right through it. kept it tight and hammered it in. welded all around top and bottom.
 
tie rod sits much higher. the flatter steering angles (due to the RE 4.5" coils dropping it 3" lower that the RE 5.5" coils with the winch and bumper), i really like how it handles with the really flat steering now. was so much steeper before.
P1010931.jpg
 
no sway bars no more
P1010934.jpg


AGR 4 bolt box and 4 bolt JCR inner plate didnt hurt anything.
P1010934.jpg
 
oh yah . pull your rotors before you weld up the inserts. haha. got slag all over the driver rotor. had 3 or 4 spares so i sanded the hell out of one of them and its all good, but that was retarded of me. also had to clean all the slag real good with fine files inside the new insert. if youre a better welder than my welding for 6 months skillz youll be fine.
 
oh yah, i had some spare cross drilled rotors , so it looks funny to have one cross drilled and one regular.
 
oh yah , said screw the WJ steering.

got centric premium pads and calipers shipped from rockauto for like 60 bucks. and got (3)the goferit OTK inserts for 50$. in 110$ instead of 800$+ and the breaks are fantastic and the tie rod is plenty high.
 
built a tire carrier out of some free stuff i had lying around before we hit slick rock a few saturdays ago
2x2 .120 wall square tubing
a leaf spring plate
bolts from a hub
some DOM from some hacked up pro comp control arms(lowers)
some bushings from a giant box of spare bushings(i think they are leaf spring bushings)
a 5/8" bolt and some larger ID tube to fit the length of the bushing.
welded some 3/16" to the bumper from the trailer hitch (pretty ghetto fab)
i think if you figure the scrap steel i had lying around was about 30$ worth of of 2x2 and maybe 15$ in bolts and tube it wasnt too bad.
P1010940.jpg
 
P1010941.jpg
 
yep when i dont cut the metal to the right size i just find whatever small scrap steel is lying around and just weld that up. you can see two spots here . and i did a terrible job painting it.

the diameter on the leaf spring plates is surprisingly close to 5 on 4.5
 
P1010938.jpg
 
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