Project: Freak of Nature

[VAhasnoWAVES]

Heims are AMAZING for dd. If I didn't get all new tre's given to me I would have built a heim set up for the baby jeep.

Yea I have looked at the ruff stuff steering kits as well. What size heim joint should I look for for the steering?

this kit:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34STEER.html

5/8" heims on the tie rod. i added saftey washers to mine. DOM still bends, and with the little movement that no misalignment spacers on the tie rod has, it tends to bind up. safety washers give it a little more room. 3/4" heims with misalignment spacers for the drag link. 5/8" bolts through it all. be sure that your bolts have proper shoulder length.

ruff stuff also doesnt suggest drilling out puny D30 knuckles bigger than 5/8", but thats all you need to remove the taper.

 

[Jeepguy91]

Thanks everybody. This gives me something to look into tonight.

 

[Jeepguy91]

Well i think i have figured out exactly what all i need to make the steering. Gonna pick up the parts a little at a time and make it myself. Going with 3/4" heim for the steering and 1.5" tube. Should be pretty stout when its all said and done.

With that all figured out it got me thinking. I will already be replacing the track bar and building the steering so why not go ahead and just start building the long arm for it as well. I built the one for my old zj and it worked really well. The only thing i have a question on is whether to run just one short upper radius arm or do a full 3 link long arm? What is everyone's idea on this? I have an idea on how to make both work and the radius would be a little easier to build but am just stumped on what to do. Part of me says to go ahead and do the full length 3 link.

 

[kmanxj5050]

Full 3 link FTW.

 

[Jeepguy91]

Only thing i have seen about it is it putting a lot of extra stress on the upper axle mount with only having the 1 upper arm. Any truth to that?

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

the IRO crap lives...

if its built right, its a non issue.

 

[Fore Wheeler]

I would contact cheeseman to see if his Clayton 3 link upgrade is for sale.

 

[Jeepguy91]

Re: Re: Project: Freak of Nature

the IRO crap lives...

if its built right, its a non issue.

Yea I can build it like what iro does fairly easy. Just don't know if I should go with something like IRO or something with a full length upper arm

 

[Jeepguy91]

Re: Re: Project: Freak of Nature

I would contact cheeseman to see if his Clayton 3 link upgrade is for sale.

Will do. Forgot he won that.

 

[macgyvr]

I have not shipped the kit to him yet. Afaik it hasn't been delivered to me yet. That said, if you make a deal, let me know so I don't ship it to him.

mac 'thanks' gyvr

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

Yea I can build it like what iro does fairly easy. Just don't know if I should go with something like IRO or something with a full length upper arm

i vote true 3 link with the upper on the passenger side. talk to justin, his performed great.

 

[89eliminator]

if you are doing 3 link with pass side upper, make sure you strengthen the heck out of the axle side link mount

 

[Jeepguy91]

I have been looking at different set ups all night and for right now think I might just go with a single upper radius arm style similar to what IRO uses.

 

[kmanxj5050]

i vote true 3 link with the upper on the passenger side. talk to justin, his performed great.

Why passenger side? Driver is much stronger.

 

[Fore Wheeler]

Re: Re: Project: Freak of Nature

Why passenger side? Driver is much stronger.

X785

 

[whitexj98]

If your fabricating a 3 link using the passenger side, I would hope you wouldn’t be using the factory upper. A truss or well gusseted mount would be needed!

 

[macgyvr]

Why passenger side? Driver is much stronger.

Avoids driveshaft interference issues.

mac 'ran a 3 link for a long time' gyvr

 

[Jeepguy91]

It seems like there would be more room on the driver side tho with not having to deal with the exhaust. The more I keep thinking about it the more I think I can make it work on the driver side.

 

[macgyvr]

It seems like there would be more room on the driver side tho with not having to deal with the exhaust. The more I keep thinking about it the more I think I can make it work on the driver side.

Only time exhaust was issue was welding in the upper mount at the frame.

We didn't want to have to deal with designing around the front driveshaft.

mac 'no one made a kit 12 years ago' gyvr

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

If your fabricating a 3 link using the passenger side, I would hope you wouldn’t be using the factory upper. A truss or well gusseted mount would be needed!

this

Avoids driveshaft interference issues.

mac 'ran a 3 link for a long time' gyvr

and this

the exhaust is static for the most part. easier to design around than a driveshaft that travels with the suspension.





also... stock UCA bushings were never meant to stand up to the abuse of a 3 link. and of course the anti IRO coalition complains, "ZOMG! singlez 10mm boltz!" i believe your RK kit came with a cartridge joint that replaces the stock bushing, right Kman?

personally, id run a true 3 link on the passenger side... use a heim are some sort of spherical rod end instead of being limited by expensive drop in joints like the currie or RK ones. also, fab my own mounts for the UCA as to get proper separation on the links.