O2 sensor won't budge.

[souske]

Want a hard car to work on?
get a 4th gen F-body
Took me a weekend to change the spark plugs.
I can swap an xj motor in the same amount of time.

Take it to a muffler.shop, not a mechanic. My muffler guy charges $20 cash whenever I take it in.
then again,

 

[Vanimal]

I never realized how smart i was. thanks for making me feel better about myself.

 

[souske]

I never realized how smart i was. thanks for making me feel better about myself.

You are a winner, very special, and everyone likes you.

/touchey feeley generation

 

[Demonoid369]

you need blowtorches for the XJ. That's way out of my league.

you know how I know your dumb?

you were babied your entire life weren't you?

how hard or complicated is putting a socket on the o2, place wrench, with pipe bar if needed and kick....... or just pull really really hard lol I replaced mine with a good swift kick and it broke loose.

all I can think of is either your a dumb 15 year old making crap up or your a skinny weak 32 year old guy that lives at home and whines to mom to bring meat loaf.....

 

[souske]

Howwaaaaarrrd!

 

[bimmerjeeper]

Sorry, but kicking a wrench sounds like a nice way to tear off your exhaust or break off the O2 if the wrench partially slips off before you kick it. No thanks.
Did you keep the wrench from falling off with one foot, while kicking with the other?

 

[bimmerjeeper]

Yes, you are too limp wristed to just.get out there and try.

Chock the rear wheels.
jack the front axle
place jackstands under the axle
lower axle onto jackstands

Start working.

This should only take 5 mins or so.
stay out of the way should the jack slip

I tried to jack up the XJ in order to give it one last shot before sending it to the mechanic for a few days. I jacked up the front axle by the front differential. I went to put the jack stands under the axle tubes and realized the short side axle had nowhere to actually place the stand. Like usual, you never get the complete story on the internet. Can someone tell me EXACTLY where you're supposed to place the jack stand on the driver's side? There is no room on the axle. And the lower control arm thing gets in the way of the jack stands.

 

[garr]

I tried to jack up the XJ in order to give it one last shot before sending it to the mechanic for a few days. I jacked up the front axle by the front differential. I went to put the jack stands under the axle tubes and realized the short side axle had nowhere to actually place the stand. Like usual, you never get the complete story on the internet. Can someone tell me EXACTLY where you're supposed to place the jack stand on the driver's side? There is no room on the axle. And the lower control arm thing gets in the way of the jack stands.

Where are you located in NY?

 

[kastein]

THINK FOR YOURSELF HOLY SHIT

AND LOOK AT PICTURES people have already posted them in this thread.

 

[bimmerjeeper]

Ok, this is what I did. I jammed the jackstand into that little notch at the control arm bushing. It wasn't really centered under the axle, but I said **** it. When I lowered the axle down onto the jackstand, it only landed on on side of the cup. After a few seconds the axle loudly snapped itself into the cup. I was worried that the jackstand cup might now be jammed into the control arm area b/c it didn't fit in there by hand, but it might have been forced in by the weight of the XJ. Here are photos if this doesn't make sense. By the way, jacking up from the differential really isn't the way to go b/c of the seesaw efffect of the fulcrum. One tire is 8 inches off the ground while the other is 1 inch. So, once you stick the jackstands under, you basically have one tire that is an inch off the ground. Whoop-dee-do.

 

[bimmerjeeper]

TRY HARDER, for example, jack the front end up and put it on jack stands. BAM, instand extra 6" of clearance.

I'd just like to point out that jacking up the XJ doesn't help. There is no clearance even with the XJ jacked up. I don't even know what I was expecting, but in hindsight, this was useless advice. My jackstands were teetering on the highest setting, so if you're saying it wasn't high enough, then I need special truck stands or something. Jacking may have lifted the O2 sensor a few inches at best. They only way a cheater bar will help remove the O2 is with the XJ on a lift above your head. Then, it can hang vertically, while you push it. Otherwise, the pavement still gets in the way. There is simply no clearance in either lateral direction. One the one side, there is a large oil pan. On the other side is a frame rail. There is simply nowhere for the bar to go. You can not get it horizontal and pull at it. On the driver's side, the tire is exactly parallel, so even if the frame rail wasn't there, you'd have to pull the thing blindly with your face pressed against the tire. That's just stupid and asking for trouble. I took photos so you could understand what I mean.

 

[souske]

In between the pumpkin/lca pocket, or lca pocket/swaybar mount, or swaybar mount/inner c works as well.


Before you start working, give the front a good shake/ push to make sure it wont wobble.
should be rock steady

 

[5-90]

Helpful hints I've developed over the years:

- Don't use a crowfoot wrench - use a HEGO socket. It grips better, and is less likely to flex.
- Since the socket still does flex (just not as much,) you can bind it with a band-type hose clamp at the open end. That reduces it still further (the clamp may be applied before you put the socket in.)
- I've always had excellent results when removing these things while the area is as warm as I can tolerate - burning your hand can be considered an "occupational hazzard."
- "Feed it wax" is an old mechanic's trick for loosening stubborn fasteners. You use a torch with a pencil flame to heat the part with the male thread only! This forces the female threads to expand as the male-threaded part expands. At intervals, you remove the head and touch a candle or a block of paraffin wax (you can find this with canning supplies, and at some craft stores) to the junction between the two threads, or the junction between parts. The wax melts and wicks in between the threads. Only do this if you are replacing the part - or fastener - with the male threads! You get it hot enough to wreck the heat-treatment! If you do this on a bolt or screw, your SAE8 screw won't be SAE8 anymore! (This is why you only heat the male-threaded part, you're probably replacing it anyhow. The heat transferred is usually not enough to wreck the heat-treat on the female-threaded part.) I have detailed how to do with with frozen oil galley plugs before, it's the same principle.
- Under no circumstances are you to install the new HEGO sensor with dry threads, and you are to use a torque wrench! Coat the threads (but not the sensor tip) with a quality never-seez compound, and torque to 19-21 pound-feet on install. Failure to do either or both of these (dry threads, "gudentyt" torque) usually means you're going to have to remove the exhaust manifold next time and have the damned thing broken out on the bench...

Once you've done it, you see just how easy it is. The only reason(s) it takes me more than fifteen minutes to replace a HEGO sensor?
- I will at least visually check wiring before getting the sensor out. I've had wiring faults translate as HEGO fault DTCs.
- The damned thing is hidden behind far too much crap (engine fairings, accessories, ...)
- I'm just having a bad day.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

Hm... that's a new jack stand spot if I've ever seen one.

Most people go with that nice little spot to the right of the control arm bracket in your picture, between the bracket and the inner C

 

[Sidewinder CC]

Helpful hints I've developed over the years:

- Don't use a crowfoot wrench - use a HEGO socket. It grips better, and is less likely to flex.
- Since the socket still does flex (just not as much,) you can bind it with a band-type hose clamp at the open end. That reduces it still further (the clamp may be applied before you put the socket in.)
- I've always had excellent results when removing these things while the area is as warm as I can tolerate - burning your hand can be considered an "occupational hazzard."
- "Feed it wax" is an old mechanic's trick for loosening stubborn fasteners. You use a torch with a pencil flame to heat the part with the male thread only! This forces the female threads to expand as the male-threaded part expands. At intervals, you remove the head and touch a candle or a block of paraffin wax (you can find this with canning supplies, and at some craft stores) to the junction between the two threads, or the junction between parts. The wax melts and wicks in between the threads. Only do this if you are replacing the part - or fastener - with the male threads! You get it hot enough to wreck the heat-treatment! If you do this on a bolt or screw, your SAE8 screw won't be SAE8 anymore! (This is why you only heat the male-threaded part, you're probably replacing it anyhow. The heat transferred is usually not enough to wreck the heat-treat on the female-threaded part.) I have detailed how to do with with frozen oil galley plugs before, it's the same principle.
- Under no circumstances are you to install the new HEGO sensor with dry threads, and you are to use a torque wrench! Coat the threads (but not the sensor tip) with a quality never-seez compound, and torque to 19-21 pound-feet on install. Failure to do either or both of these (dry threads, "gudentyt" torque) usually means you're going to have to remove the exhaust manifold next time and have the damned thing broken out on the bench...

Once you've done it, you see just how easy it is. The only reason(s) it takes me more than fifteen minutes to replace a HEGO sensor?
- I will at least visually check wiring before getting the sensor out. I've had wiring faults translate as HEGO fault DTCs.
- The damned thing is hidden behind far too much crap (engine fairings, accessories, ...)
- I'm just having a bad day.

5-90,

I've used the candle wax trick many times over the years and it works great.

 

[bimmerjeeper]

In between the pumpkin/lca pocket, or lca pocket/swaybar mount, or swaybar mount/inner c works as well.

What in the LCA pocket? Google doesn't help. Can you point out the exact spot in the photo? Do you know how to use a photo editor?
http://i50.tinypic.com/16kubdd.jpg

Hm... that's a new jack stand spot if I've ever seen one. Most people go with that nice little spot to the right of the control arm bracket in your picture, between the bracket and the inner C

The control arm was the only place the jack would fit before I jacked up the XJ. There was no room anywhere else. I tried to pick put the jack point before jacking, so I wouldn't be dicking around while all the weight is on the jack. But, once when the jackstand arm is fully extended, the base of the jackstand doesn't get in the way. I will try spot this next time, once the XJ is lifted. Thanks.

Helpful hints I've developed over the years:

- Don't use a crowfoot wrench - use a HEGO socket. It grips better, and is less likely to flex.
Once you've done it, you see just how easy it is. The only reason(s) it takes me more than fifteen minutes to replace a HEGO sensor?
.

HEGO socket didn't fit. Maybe newer Jeeps are different.
I do not have a 22mm wrench, so this is a moot point. I only have basic $1000 worth of tools, not a professionally stocked garage.

We've already established that I am not using a torch 5 inches from my face.
I know how easy O2 are, and have done them on other cars.
But, O2 sensors on XJ's are for professionals only, like many tasks.
Blowtorch and lift is really unnecessary unless you feel like spending a few months of your life dedicated to this task.

It only takes 15 mins. if you've done this for decades. Otherwise, for a beginner, it's a week long affair! (Then you take it to a professional)

 

[kastein]

You're really gunning for a smack on the wrist for trolling, aren't you?

I only own around 1000 bucks in tools, they all fit in one 80lb hardframed tool caddy/bag I carry to the junkyard, and I can fix anything on my jeep with them. Know how I know this? Because my tools were stolen this spring and it cost me around a thousand bucks to replace them.

 

[birchlakeXJ]

But, O2 sensors on XJ's are for professionals only, like many tasks.

WTF? :sure:

 

[cruiser54]

WTF? :sure:

bummerjeeper needs to hike his skirt up, put the camera down, and pull on the breaker bar.

 

[Demonoid369]

I only have basic $1000 worth of tools, not a professionally stocked garage.

That's funny because I have the $25 hard steel 120pc cheap Walmart set and that set was used to change my o2 sensor......................

Ill give you props for actually finally going out and trying to jack up the xj but as I've said and many others, you should just sell it. You don't seem to have the common sense nor the initiative to think for yourself to figure these things out.