bimmerjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- USA
Kastein did warn me. But, my MPG is 8, so I need to do something. I used the crowsfoot O2 sensor socket from Autozone and a 3/8" ratchet handle. I could not get a long cheater bar around my socket handle since the pavement got in the way. When I pulled, I did see that the entire exhaust was moving. I soaked in some PB, and walked away, but doubt this will work. It sounds like I need to go buy my first MAPP torch and step up into the big leagues. Is MAPP vastly preferable to a propane torch? Does this have a high odds of loosening it? If not, I will just pay a mechanic to do this level of "heavy duty" work.
In other news, I was able to replace my rear liftgate struts. This went smoothly, and is a project that is ideal for accountant types with a basic socket set. No torches, welders, or grinders needed!
Also what does this mean? Feed it wax?
"you're doing it wrong. I've never had one tear out the bung. You got to get the exhaust good and hot, then hit the bung with a torch. Keep the bung hot and feed it wax at the threads. It will pop right out, trust me. I've never used anything more than a box wrench to take out o2 sensors. Burning myself is the greatest risk."
In other news, I was able to replace my rear liftgate struts. This went smoothly, and is a project that is ideal for accountant types with a basic socket set. No torches, welders, or grinders needed!
Also what does this mean? Feed it wax?
"you're doing it wrong. I've never had one tear out the bung. You got to get the exhaust good and hot, then hit the bung with a torch. Keep the bung hot and feed it wax at the threads. It will pop right out, trust me. I've never used anything more than a box wrench to take out o2 sensors. Burning myself is the greatest risk."
I would leave the O2 sensor alone unless it gives you issues or your fuel economy drops below 15mpg without you driving it like you stole it.
O2 sensors in these things can be a real bastard, especially in the northeast, they like to rust in place. Last time I did one I ended up replacing the downpipe, the studs in the exhaust manifold, and welding, since it tore all the threads out of the bung it threads into. It was pretty annoying because the studs in the manifold were so badly rusted I had to cut them instead of unscrewing the nuts, which resulted in me having to drive them out with a punch and tack weld in some small bolts to replace them.
Basically what I'm saying is... if that sensor doesn't come out easy (and it probably won't, unless it has already been replaced and doesn't need to be done) you want no part of screwing with it unless you're comfortable using 4 pound hammers in tight spaces to drive studs out of exhaust manifolds and/or welding new bungs into exhaust systems. Since the connector is larger than the hex-shaped faces on the sensor, you can't even get a fullsize socket on that will handle full torque, so you'll end up either cutting the connector off to get a real socket on (and thereby committing yourself to getting it done before driving it) or use an o2 sensor socket, a lot of heat, and/or an open end wrench, and possibly rounding it off.
People in rust free areas of the country have it easy.
The two or three I've had seize up on me... I did right after driving and had a propane torch on it. And it put purple marks on the palms of my apparently blue collar freakishly strong hands at the other end of a two foot box wrench chain. It got to the point that I was afraid it was going to tear the bung out of the exhaust pipe because the metal was flexing right around the welds.
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