NOT a budget buggy build

[Goatman]

Do you really want to know?

53", and it tapers very slightly towards the rear.

I measured it again, and it's 54" wide at the A pillar, which will be the widest part, and it tapers down to 52.5" at the end of the rockers behind the B pillar.

 

[David Taylor]

I measured it again, and it's 54" wide at the A pillar, which will be the widest part, and it tapers down to 52.5" at the end of the rockers behind the B pillar.

Now I don't feel so bad.

 

[BrettM]

Now I don't feel so bad.

fatty

 

[Loose_Nuts_Enterprises]

I used them on mine. No bends yet. You know if it's lighter I'm going to try it.

Did you have them re-heat treated or normalized (whatever the proper term is) after welding the tube adaper in? wouldn't welding to a heat treated piece of tube defeat the purpose of the original heat treat without doing this?

Also, what would cryo-treating do for strength as opposed to heat treat?
You could probably get the same material for less money, weld in your tube adapters, and have it cryo'd after the welding. I suppose you could do the same with heat treating after the link is welded.

Just wondering what the pros and cons would be, or if my questions are a non-issue.

Oh, one more, should the tube adapters be chro-mo and tig'd with chro-mo filler?

Curious minds...

-Dan

 

[Mike L]

Did you have them re-heat treated or normalized (whatever the proper term is) after welding the tube adaper in? wouldn't welding to a heat treated piece of tube defeat the purpose of the original heat treat without doing this?

Also, what would cryo-treating do for strength as opposed to heat treat?
You could probably get the same material for less money, weld in your tube adapters, and have it cryo'd after the welding. I suppose you could do the same with heat treating after the link is welded.

Just wondering what the pros and cons would be, or if my questions are a non-issue.

Oh, one more, should the tube adapters be chro-mo and tig'd with chro-mo filler?

Curious minds...

-Dan

IIRC those Poly tubes Goat and Dave are running are swedged on the end and tapped for the joint, so welding in a tube adapter isn't necessary.

From what I have heard been told: to affect heat treat the metal would have to get up towards 3000 degrees and higher. As far as cryo vs heat treat, the cryo have a better affect on a wearable item (ie: ring and pinion, bushings, etc.) vs. something like a link. :shocked:

-Mike

 

[BrettM]

Did you have them re-heat treated or normalized (whatever the proper term is) after welding the tube adaper in? wouldn't welding to a heat treated piece of tube defeat the purpose of the original heat treat without doing this?

Also, what would cryo-treating do for strength as opposed to heat treat?
You could probably get the same material for less money, weld in your tube adapters, and have it cryo'd after the welding. I suppose you could do the same with heat treating after the link is welded.

Just wondering what the pros and cons would be, or if my questions are a non-issue.

Oh, one more, should the tube adapters be chro-mo and tig'd with chro-mo filler?

Curious minds...

-Dan

They are swedged on one end, but they leave the other end normal so they can be cut to whatever lenth you like and then a tube adapter or cartridge joint welded on. Welding does mess up the heat treatment, but only at the very end where the strength is not very critical since the weakness of links is typically bending forces which are applied greatest at the middle rather than tension/compression forces which are applied through the whole length of the link.

I don't know the ins and outs, but heat treating will do much more for chromo links than cryo.

TIG with a chromo filler would be ideal, but in practicality, not necessary.

 

[Goatman]

I asked them about welding the tube adapters on one end, and they said it didn't matter to the strength. Like Brett said, it only affects the link right at the end.

 

[Loose_Nuts_Enterprises]

Thanks for the info guys, that had me wondering.

Sweet build Goat. You need to push it out in the driveway to get some side shots so we can what is going on a little better.

Also, I saw absolutely no Bud Light cans anywhere. Your project is definitely not URF approved.

-Dan

 

[Mr.OverKill]

Thanks for the info guys, that had me wondering.

Sweet build Goat. You need to push it out in the driveway to get some side shots so we can what is going on a little better.

Also, I saw absolutely no Bud Light cans anywhere. Your project is definitely not URF approved.

-Dan

we purposly hid the Bud Light and Cuervo from the camaras view. no way we would ever drink and use power tools :angel:

 

[Goatman]

There's nothing URF Racing about this build. Those guys will steal the best ideas eventually, anyway. URF has some good stuff, but they can't take credit for this build up.

Besides, who would ever want to drink Bud Light......

 

[Matt S.]

Thanks for the info guys, that had me wondering.

Sweet build Goat. You need to push it out in the driveway to get some side shots so we can what is going on a little better.

Also, I saw absolutely no Bud Light cans anywhere. Your project is definitely not URF approved.

-Dan

I am taking this offensively! There is NO way that a build of this caliber would be drowned with alcohol!


Oh.. and URF will never be the same after this one is finished. I dont think they will beable to compete in the "new" market.

 

[Ramsey]

Besides, who would ever want to drink Bud Light......

:wave:

 

[Captain Ron]

TIG with a chromo filler would be ideal, but in practicality, not necessary.

Not true Brett. With all 4K series steels ER70-S2 is the only way to fly, er, burn.

--ron

 

[GSequoia]

Besides, who would ever want to drink Bud Light......

I'll drink to that! :cheers:

*Another Guiness Please*

 

[Weasel]

Not true Brett. With all 4K series steels ER70-S2 is the only way to fly, er, burn. --ron

ditto. With chromoly welding rod you need to reheat-treat the weld to avoid having a brittle region in which the weld will probably crack. A mild steel filler rod will give you a much better weld as far as material properties. And yes only the end of the link will be affected by welding it. Cyro is not the same thing as heat treating. I don't even know why you would only cyro something and not heat treat it first. Heat treating will can gain you 150-200% increase in strength where as cyro is maybe 10-15%. You heat treat first then cyro is you need it. Work wells on gears to help with wear but also pretty much anywhere else you need that last bit.

 

[Loose_Nuts_Enterprises]

ditto. With chromoly welding rod you need to reheat-treat the weld to avoid having a brittle region in which the weld will probably crack. A mild steel filler rod will give you a much better weld as far as material properties. And yes only the end of the link will be affected by welding it. Cyro is not the same thing as heat treating. I don't even know why you would only cyro something and not heat treat it first. Heat treating will can gain you 150-200% increase in strength where as cyro is maybe 10-15%. You heat treat first then cyro is you need it. Work wells on gears to help with wear but also pretty much anywhere else you need that last bit.

Thanks for the detailed explanation....from you and everyone else, too.

-Dan

 

[Goatman]

Sweet build Goat. You need to push it out in the driveway to get some side shots so we can what is going on a little better.


-Dan

No back half yet, so can't push it out yet, but here are a few more pics. The seats get set in then back out to keep an idea of where to position things. I'm trying to figure out the best way to use the space under the seats, and to keep access to that space. I'd like heavy stuff like tools and the battery to go there because it's low in the chassis, but I can't seem to figure out a good way to keep access to under the seats from the rear. Since the boatsides will be closed in, it makes sense to also close in the rear from the floor to the lower B pillar cross bar, which will keep things stored under the seats from falling out the back, or loose stuff that lands on the floor. I'm thinking of keeping heavy spare stuff, like fluids and water, snatch block, shackle, etc under the drivers seat and a tool bag under the pass seat, then mount the battery as low as possible behind the B pillar. One of the design parameters is keeping an open line of sight to the rear driveline. Anyway, more pics:

The rear LCA mounts are now on, after changing my mind once about how to mount them, and the front tube and rear tube from the frame to the rockers are in. There will be a couple of more tubes there, but I'm waiting to get a better idea about how the seats will get mounted before putting them in, and the boatsides will get plated.

 

[Matt S.]

yummy:loveu:

 

[GSequoia]

Richard. Can you put some soft of BEEFY hinge on the forward edge of the seat tracks then figure a type of latch for the rear that doesn't take up too much space? That way you can pivot the seats forward to fetch your spares?

Not sure where you could source such items though... Hinge could be an idea taken off a shackle (perhaps, and this sounds ghetto, cutting up a non galvanized shackle and welding to it, so the pin area is a hinge, dig?). For the latch you could even do the same thing as long as you can get your hand on either side of the seat to unscrew the pins...)

 

[BrettM]

One of the design parameters is keeping an open line of sight to the rear driveline.

I like that idea. I have seriously considered cutting out part of my cab and replacing with plexi or lexan for the same reason, and I hope you'd use plexi or lexan also; I'd hate to see a u-joint go and send parts flying.