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NOT a budget buggy build

David Taylor said:
Richard, you might need to rethink the direction of this whole build.

Word has it that there is a new rig heading are way. One the owner thinks will hand us all are collective asses.We might think it's right off the prairie but the new owner thinks he has finally seen the light on suspension design.

This has me a little worried. He might be old and a little slow. But word is he "Gets it "

Is the "guy's" first name Sugar?:canada:
 
cracker said:
Most (that I have seen) have very little upstroke and a ton of down stroke.

BrettM said:
most 14-16" airshocks are setup with 4-5" uptravel on the comp buggies. this is partially due to the desire to keep the COG real low and rely on down-travel, and partly because of the exponential spring-rate of the airshocks.

Got it.............:thumbup:
 
I wish John (Poomba) in Utah had better luck with this rig and wheeling. Too bad he had such a rough time on Fordyce in 04' after making the trek from Utah, your XJ sure did a great job with the towing him over much of Fordyce. Those were good times, a 19 hour Fordyce marathon. I cannot wait to go back and hit that trail again.

Man has that rig underwent some major changes. It's nice to see it's in some good hands and will be used for what it's built for. Are you selling your other XJ, the original that has survived so many countless battles? Come on if Matt can do the hardcore XJ & even harder core XJ buggy thing, why cannot you right. :)


When are you selling the stuff you took off? I sure could have used that front Olympic bumper a few weeks ago. I had the same one stolen off my XJ along with my Warn 8000i.
 
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The project is officially full awn!

Here's what it looked like arriving at Farmer Matt's for the 4th of July party, and what it looked like leaving the next day:

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Before:

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After:

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Before:

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After:

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Actually, it would hold up the way it is. The frame is nicely boxed back to the spring hangers and the cage adds a little, but I'd have to tie the foot plates into the frame which wouldn't take much. As light as it is it would be fine, and if it wasn't.....who cares! :D

It would be fun.....:woohoo: :laugh3:
 
nice axles..
 
Goatman said:
The previous owner has decided that this sport is not for him. He's farmed out most of the work, and so isn't familiar enough to handle the inevitable problems. He thought he built a bullet proof rig, but we all know that there isn't such a thing. Even with mega stout parts, something simple can still go wrong. He had very bad luck, and just doesn't want to be out on a trail broken down ever again. I'm very sorry to see him in this situation, but it allowed me to move ahead on a project that I've been debating for many months how to pull it off.

Hell, if you didn't just describe me to a "T". Except for the farming out part (URF contributions excluded).

Nice little project there richard.
 
Don't forget the hitch mount on the rear this time! :D
Always good to have someone who could tow you out of the
Grand Canyon if circumstances called for it!
$Rick R:sunshine:
 
Jump This said:
Don't forget the hitch mount on the rear this time! :D
Always good to have someone who could tow you out of the
Grand Canyon if circumstances called for it!
$Rick R:sunshine:

Good memory, Rick. :)

No reciever mount on this rig....too much weight. There will be something to wrap a strap around on the back. :)
 
Ordered 220' of DOM tubing today, and I pick up the bender on Thurs, so this weekend the cutting and bending will begin. I've decided to use 1.5" .188 wall DOM for most of the outside sections and .120 wall for the rest. I know the .188 wall is a little heavier, but the difference should be insignificant for as much as I'll use. I've seen too much tubing bent, dented and smashed from rocks, and I don't want this one to look beat up after a season or two, so I'm using the heavier wall tubing where the rocks will hit. This is also why I'm using DOM instead of HREW, since it holds up much better to rock rash, and since it's stronger the 1.5" will be strong enough, probably as strong or stronger than 1.75" HREW. I also plan to use enough cross bracing that it can take some rolls and hold up. The additional weight of a few extra cross pieces is worth it to me to have a rig I can pound on over time and still be in good shape.......hopefully.
 
Your explaination sounds more like a defense :) We all know you'll need the thicker tubing with how/where/how often you wheel.

This is one of the more interesting threads going on right now - keep the updates coming!
 
Capt. Nemo said:
Your explaination sounds more like a defense :) We all know you'll need the thicker tubing with how/where/how often you wheel.

This is one of the more interesting threads going on right now - keep the updates coming!

I thought about it quite a bit, so relaying my thoughts. Looking for a balance between light weight and stout enough to hold up for a good while. I know the 60's aren't light weight, more than a 44 or 9", but I hope to still come out light because I'm removing so much sheetmetal.

Maybe I'll have some pics of more cutting after this weekend.
 
Goatman said:
I thought about it quite a bit, so relaying my thoughts. Looking for a balance between light weight and stout enough to hold up for a good while. I know the 60's aren't light weight, more than a 44 or 9", but I hope to still come out light because I'm removing so much sheetmetal.

Maybe I'll have some pics of more cutting after this weekend.

It won't be too much weight savings since the most of the vehicle is made out of 22 guage. There is only so much you can get rid of.

What does the yellow one weigh?

The 60 front weighs about 150# more than the 44? And the rear is probably the same as mine wich is about 300# (and that is about 50# more than the 9"). You won't be that far off Richard.
 
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