My "Hero" Blog

Do your coils compress enough for that thing to ever hit the oil pan? Just bump stop the thing perhaps . Maybe add ankther 1/2" of lift too
 
from what i remember of 3 links it really doesn't matter much on separation or angle.
more like just connecting the dots. rear 4 link geometry is much more critical.
why cant you more the upper axle side mount outboard more? just notch the mount to fit onto the track bar mount, tipping it rearward if needed for clearance.
search the pirate 3 link geometry / design threads for more info.
 
blondejoncherokee said:
Do your coils compress enough for that thing to ever hit the oil pan? Just bump stop the thing perhaps . Maybe add ankther 1/2" of lift too
Click to expand...

Probably yes. I have 5 inches of uptravel at the bumpstops and that bracket is only like 3 inches away.

knucklehead 61 said:
from what i remember of 3 links it really doesn't matter much on separation or angle.
more like just connecting the dots. rear 4 link geometry is much more critical.
why cant you more the upper axle side mount outboard more? just notch the mount to fit onto the track bar mount, tipping it rearward if needed for clearance.
search the pirate 3 link geometry / design threads for more info.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input Tim. I should be able to get the axle side mount more outboard to the passenger side. Ill definitely notch it and will also be cutting the track bar mount to allow it to slide to the passenger side a bit more.


No more progress today, but here is a video my buddy posted of our 2015 wheeling season.

 
if you increase the separation at the frame side a bit you should prevent dive when braking. I'm running 4" and I loved it on the freeway and during emergency stopping but I'm sure I probably wouldn't notice a difference if I dropped it down to 3.5"

it's been so long that I researched all this. Here's the best piece of info I ever found

Originally Posted by Goatman
On the front you're concerned with anti-dive instead of anti-squat, under breaking rather than under power. Screw the 3 link calulator, it's basically useless, and even if it was a little useful very few would understand it enough to make a difference. Make the arms as flat as possible, especially the upper arm, period. If the lowers are mounted even with the axle tube, and the upper arm is close to flat at ride height, it will work and handle fine. No big secrets, nothing hard to figure out.
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
if you increase the separation at the frame side a bit you should prevent dive when braking. I'm running 4" and I loved it on the freeway and during emergency stopping but I'm sure I probably wouldn't notice a difference if I dropped it down to 3.5"

it's been so long that I researched all this. Here's the best piece of info I ever found

Originally Posted by Goatman
On the front you're concerned with anti-dive instead of anti-squat, under breaking rather than under power. Screw the 3 link calulator, it's basically useless, and even if it was a little useful very few would understand it enough to make a difference. Make the arms as flat as possible, especially the upper arm, period. If the lowers are mounted even with the axle tube, and the upper arm is close to flat at ride height, it will work and handle fine. No big secrets, nothing hard to figure out.
Click to expand...

I did a ton of research as well and found that info from Goatman. Best info and advice out there.
 
Thanks a lot to both of you. Good info. I never heard goatman talk much about frame side separation, let alone many other people at all so I was kinda lost on that whole side of things. I dropped the LCA mounts down a few more degrees today and used the big Ruffstuff upper control arm mount and got 8-8.25" of separation out of it. That coupled with the 3.75-4" I have at the frame side should make for a nice setup.

Today I replaced all of the PVC with DOM links, tacked all the brackets in, cut the floor for the upper link, and cycled the axle. Everything is working just as it should aside from a few very small interference issues at full bump (upper link to starter/bellhousing). With a few small tweaks it should be good to go.

Here's a few pictures.


Drivers side at bump






I'm very happy with how it is turning out. Pinion angle is great all through the suspension cycle. Half the clearance issues I thought I would have trouble with were no problem. The upper arm is totally flat at ride height, lowers clear the frame, the driveshaft only has clearance issues at an amount of droop that the jeep will never see.. The list goes on. I'm very very happy with the way things are going.
 
Last edited:
looks great man. the only thing I can add is to gusset the tits out of that axle side tower. Tie it to the track bar mount, and the tube. I gusseted mine pretty well I thought but still bent the top near the bolt :eek:

rather be safe than sorry and all that. can't wait for you to wheel this setup, it adds a ridiculous amount of stability over radius arms and short arms
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
looks great man. the only thing I can add is to gusset the tits out of that axle side tower. Tie it to the track bar mount, and the tube. I gusseted mine pretty well I thought but still bent the top near the bolt :eek:

rather be safe than sorry and all that. can't wait for you to wheel this setup, it adds a ridiculous amount of stability over radius arms and short arms
Click to expand...

Dang, not sure how you managed that one lol. I had to notch the tower to fit over the track bar bracket so it has some extra side support but not up that high. I'll have to add a nice dimpled gusset down the road.

I made a mistake the other day and accidentally cut the nylon gas line right by the drivers frame side upper control arm mount. It's a small 5" section of nylon gas line that connects the front and rear hard lines. Gas lines aren't my thing and i know nothing about them. Is there a way to replace just this small section of nylon line? Can I splice a new piece into it?



I've been making lots of progress on the jeep. Everything is welded up and either painted or awaiting paint. I started assembling the axle today and it should be half installed under the jeep tomorrow. I'm waiting on 2 small things for the crossmember and should have those back tomorrow night or Tuesday. Hoping to have it driving by Wednesday, exhaust done Thursday, and headed to the Rubicon Friday night. Cutting it close!
 
I agree with Sam. It seems like you are always working on something the night you are suppose to leave. If it wasn't for short notice wheeling trips, I doubt you would have time to work on your jeep. Haha
 
Jeep450r said:
I made a mistake the other day and accidentally cut the nylon gas line right by the drivers frame side upper control arm mount. It's a small 5" section of nylon gas line that connects the front and rear hard lines. Gas lines aren't my thing and i know nothing about them. Is there a way to replace just this small section of nylon line? Can I splice a new piece into it?
Click to expand...

Nylon line is actually pretty easy to fix / work with. What you need to know is this:
Regular brass hose barb type fittings won't work. You need Dorman (or similar) nylon fittings for nylon line.
They don't press in by hand. You need to either buy the tool for $125 or so OR, combine your brake flare tool & a caulking gun. If you google around you should be able to find pics, but the gist of it is thatyou clamp the line in the 3/8" slot of your brake flare tool. Thread the hose through the caulk gun so you can use the caulk gun to press the fitting into the hose.
It goes a lot easier if you soak the nylon line in very hot water for a few minutes. Some people freak out about this part but it's in the manufacturer's directions supplied with the parts.

Hardest part for you will be freeing up enough line to work with it under the Jeep.
 
Hahaha yeah if it weren't for the last minute id get nothing done. I had to set a ridiculous deadline though because otherwise the jeep would be torn down for way too long.

Thanks for the fuel line advice. Upon further inspection, the cut is too close to the metal fuel line to be able to splice into it. I'm going to hit up pick n pull today and grab a 'new' line from there.

I've been hitting a few road blocks that are slowing me down, but she should be back on her feet today. My biggest hold up right now is that 2 of my 1.25" hiems are not threading into the bung. So I'll be swinging by Ruffstuff today to have them chase the threads with a tap.


Lots to do, so little time.
Fingers crossed.
 
why cant you grab some 3/8" fuel line and use 2 hose clamps on each side? Rubber line wont hold the pressure maybe ?
 
I know at the rail its 39 psi.
 
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