My "Hero" Blog

Just put in an order for BDS 3" leaf springs and the associated bushing kit. A little pricey, but I have no doubt that it will be worth it. Hoping they get here by next Tuesday so I can run up and grab them between classes and then install them before Cantina.

I'm in the process of moving all of my tools back up to Sacramento, but I'll be fabbin again in no time!
 
I was only using 1/4" flat bar. I'm trying to use material I already have and I already have the 1/4", no 3/8". The only way I could really do strength by shape would be to add some sort of ribbing to the inside of the crossmember before I box it in. Maybe I could weld some angle in there? I don't want anything welded to the bottom (aside from some plate) because the whole idea here is maximum ground clearance.

You could reduce the size of the notches in the crossmember.

You could also revise the shapes so you don't have quite such a huge stress riser at the corners.

Where is your transmission mount intended to be?
 
You could reduce the size of the notches in the crossmember.



You could also revise the shapes so you don't have quite such a huge stress riser at the corners.



Where is your transmission mount intended to be?


It is going in the stock transfer case location. Also this crossmember does not hang below the frame rails, so it needs some big notches so it doesn't interfere with the driveshaft or exhaust.
 
Is the transmission mount going to be on top of, in front of, or behind this new crossmember?

If it will be on top of, like stock, you may need to review your plan of being flush with the frame rail.

You can still fix those stress risers.
 
Is the transmission mount going to be on top of, in front of, or behind this new crossmember?



If it will be on top of, like stock, you may need to review your plan of being flush with the frame rail.



You can still fix those stress risers.


Ohhh the transmission/tcase mount hahaha

It is going to be behind i think? Kevin will have to confirm that.
 
You could reduce the size of the notches in the crossmember.

You could also revise the shapes so you don't have quite such a huge stress riser at the corners.

Where is your transmission mount intended to be?

There is a good chance the notches will be smaller than they are. Ill need to see how it all sits when I mock it up.

I could round the corners of the cut to get rid of that 90* corner. Maybe drill the corners before I cut so I can use the radius of the hole as the corner. Or if I could find a way to get a circular cut that would be cool. Like using the edge of a big hole saw...

The transmission mount will be on a tab off the front of the crossmember.
 
There is a good chance the notches will be smaller than they are. Ill need to see how it all sits when I mock it up.



I could round the corners of the cut to get rid of that 90* corner. Maybe drill the corners before I cut so I can use the radius of the hole as the corner. Or if I could find a way to get a circular cut that would be cool. Like using the edge of a big hole saw...



The transmission mount will be on a tab off the front of the crossmember.


Or you could just use a plasma cutter. Hehe
 
Aren't you guys putting 12000 plbs of pressure on it in testing? I think it will be fine. If you make it to strong you could put stress points on other parts of the jeep like rails and such.
 
So I've been going through some of my old pictures from my camera and computer. Here are a few from the coldest Rubicon trip I've ever been on. I don't think I've posted them before but here they are.
















Ill post more if I find any.
 
Aren't you guys putting 12000 plbs of pressure on it in testing? I think it will be fine. If you make it to strong you could put stress points on other parts of the jeep like rails and such.


You have a really good point there Sam, I would personally way rather have my tcase xmember to crack than my frame. Basically you want a point that you know will break before anything else that is cheep and easy to repair.
 
So as mentioned before,my unibody is all tweaked back by the rear spring hangers. It looks like the hitch rotated or something and dented the bottom of the frame. Here's the drivers side. The passenger side is nearly identical.






What should I do here? I can't really pull that dent out... Should I just bridge the gap with some plate and burn er in??
 
Try hammering the pointy part with your large hammer (not mikes tiny ass one) and then plate the side with 3/16th. Then bottom with some 1/8th hardened
You don't want to use hardened plate it gets brittle when welded I speak from work experience
 
You don't want to use hardened plate it gets brittle when welded I speak from work experience


Good to know for the future!!
 
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