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Locking DD - Opinions ?

Wiley Coyote said:
I have been running Lock-Rites in the front and rear of my ’91 Limited for a while now. It handles great in the snow, but sucks on ice/packed snow. The worst is when it’s clear with patches of ice. .

Clear skies with 2" of clear solid ice on top of pavement on windy roads is what I have to deal with. I'm thinking an OX locker in the back is the way to go up here. Thoughts?
 
Nevada City Sparky said:
Clear skies with 2" of clear solid ice on top of pavement on windy roads is what I have to deal with. I'm thinking an OX locker in the back is the way to go up here. Thoughts?

If they have it for your particular rear axle, id say go for it.
 
ew no, don't get an ox... Yucky.
I don't like them because you have to dissasemble half the thing just to mount the ring gear. and all the adjusting with it. The cable could get kinked on suspension stuff. if its not adjusted right then it can pop out of lock. ARB is the only way to fly.
Eaton would be good if they can get the casting problem fixed in the mfg proccess of the cases. Auburn Ected is awsome but not available for many axles. but when it is, it will be awsome.
But the ARB is simple to install, its not hard dealing with a cut airline... if that happens.
 
3XJFamily said:
I've did the research, and verified with a respectable mechanic that the full-time feature of the NP242 is NOT compatible with a non-selectable locker or LSD in the front.


Timber said:
Sort of. It's compatible in the sense that it will go in and 4wd still works (better even), but the 242 has been effectively turned into a 231.

Sorry, but this is bogus information. The full time feature of an NP242 t-case uses an open differential inside the t-case. This allows the same degree of differentiation between the front and rear axles as is allowed from side to side on an axle with an open diff. So, it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to the operation of the full time NP 242 setting if there is a locker in either the front or the rear axle. Now, the locker may have it's own effect on handling, but it will have no effect whatsoever on the operation of the t-case. Don't care how respectable a mechanic he is, he doesn't understand this issue.

The 242 will be effectively turned into a 231 only if it is put in the part time setting, which locks the front and rear axles together inside the t-case. A locker in the front cannot stop the center differential from working when the t-case is in the full time setting.
 
NXJ said:
Well, I want to add locker(s) to my '91 Limited daily driver on ~ 31s, it’ll go 80% on pavement.
So, front, rear or both ? I think I want the locker(s) to be selectable, ARB or OX ($$$) ? Are there more selectable lockers out there, or should I get an automatic one(s) ? What's the most bang for the buck locker, and where do I get the best deals ? Would it be stupid not to regear when I first have the diff(s) out ? What is the stock gearing, 3.55 ? How would it work with 31s, mileage ? Is the install (manual vs. auto locker) job hard, what tools are needed ? The rear axle is a LS equipped C-clip D35, and I don’t feel like polishing it too much, the frontend on the other hand is a HP D30. It has a NP242 if that matters. Experiences, thoughts, options, tips, opinions, love, hate ?

Enlighten me. Thanks.:viking:
Good.
Both.
Front selectable.
Yes but stick with those two. Detroit in rear
Detroit in rear. Ebay. Seriously.
Yes.
Probably.
OK, but go to 4.56.
Fine.
I'd pay for it.
See above answer.
Don't blame you. Buy used Detroit. Wheel it till it breaks. Buy 8.8 and start over.
Doesn't.
In my experience, it's best to pick your wife carefully, discipline your kids because you love them, and treat people how you want to be treated.
 
I thought that D35 + Auto locker (Detroit) = Broken axle shafts = Bad Idea.
I'm locking my D35, but I´m installing an ARB because it's selectable and won't put that much stress to my axle when driven on paved roads,
I had a Detroit in my Ram and it was one of the best Mods I did to the truck, you can barely notice it was there on street, you notice it only on tight turns and if you hit the gas. Anyway Great locker.

I don't know if I would install a Detroit in my D35, I think I wouldn't.
 
Goatman said:
The 242 will be effectively turned into a 231 only if it is put in the part time setting, which locks the front and rear axles together inside the t-case. A locker in the front cannot stop the center differential from working when the t-case is in the full time setting.
You're right, the t-case is where the difference is between the 231 and 242; I wasn't thinking it through. I admittedly don't know enough about this subject (I probably should've kept quiet), but then why are auto. lockers not recommended in the front for full-time vehicles?
 
HotChiliRam said:
I thought that D35 + Auto locker (Detroit) = Broken axle shafts = Bad Idea.
I'm locking my D35, but I´m installing an ARB because it's selectable and won't put that much stress to my axle when driven on paved roads,
I had a Detroit in my Ram and it was one of the best Mods I did to the truck, you can barely notice it was there on street, you notice it only on tight turns and if you hit the gas. Anyway Great locker.

I don't know if I would install a Detroit in my D35, I think I wouldn't.
I found a used D35 Detroit for $250 on ebay. Wheeled it for a year that way and later sold the axle for $300.
Nothing wrong with cheap turd polishing.
Street driving a rear Detroit isn't a problem. Just don't pile on the gas while turning.
It's that simple.
 
Timber said:
why are auto. lockers not recommended in the front for full-time vehicles?
Because they're locked whenever you hit the gas. Not a good thing for the front on the street.
In 2wd the front locker never engages because there's never torque applied to it.
If you can't turn off 4wd, you can't turn off an auto locker.
 
kid4lyf said:
Because they're locked whenever you hit the gas. Not a good thing for the front on the street.
In 2wd the front locker never engages because there's never torque applied to it.
If you can't turn off 4wd, you can't turn off an auto locker.
I figure that I'll just go with a No Slip in the 8.25 this spring and leave the front alone. I like/sorta need the 242 in winters here.
 
HotChiliRam said:
I thought that D35 + Auto locker (Detroit) = Broken axle shafts = Bad Idea.
I'm locking my D35, but I´m installing an ARB because it's selectable and won't put that much stress to my axle when driven on paved roads,
I had a Detroit in my Ram and it was one of the best Mods I did to the truck, you can barely notice it was there on street, you notice it only on tight turns and if you hit the gas. Anyway Great locker.

I don't know if I would install a Detroit in my D35, I think I wouldn't.

Again, this is not very accurate information. Any locker can increase the likelyhood of breaking a D35 axle shaft, it makes no difference if it's a welded diff, spool, auto locker or selectable locker. On the trail, a case can be made that an auto locker puts less stress on the axle than either a selectable locker or a spool (selectable locker is a spool when locked), since the auto locker still allows differentiation (one wheel traveling faster than the other in turns). So, pick your poison. I would never waste money on a gear change and locker install on a D35, and I would never waste money on a full carrier locker install without doing a gear change.

Obviously, the selectable locker works as an open diff on the street so no added stress to the axles. But, the auto locker allows full differentiation on the street, so it also puts no added stress on the axles. The auto locker disconnects the outside axle when cornering. Most people misunderstand that the handlling characteristics of an auto locker are from it unlocking and driving only one wheel, not from it locking both axles together. This is why some people say they prefer a spool, since they don't get the handling quirks of the auto locker (unlocking around corners), they just add more stress to the axles and wear their tires out faster.
 
3XJFamily said:
I've did the research, and verified with a respectable mechanic that the full-time feature of the NP242 is NOT compatible with a non-selectable locker or LSD in the front.

OK, here is what I've got from the Aussie Locker site:
www.OffRoadLockers.com said:
Like all automatic lockers, the 'Aussie Locker' cannot be used in front axles of constant 4Wheel Drive vehicles. Some vehicle manufacturers offer a part-time 4WD option and automatic lockers can be installed. Some vehicle owners install part-time kits or use free wheeling hubs.

I've seen similar statements on some other sites that specifically refer to "Select-trac". As I understand, damage to the T-case isn't the issue, but the combination of an open differential in the NP242 T-case and a locked front make for pretty poor road manners in full-time - especially at higher speeds. With a locked rear and open front, if I break the rear loose on a turn, it quits pushing, and the front will pull me through very predictably. It also makes the quirks of a rear locker less noticable on the street. I really like the road manners in full-time when I'm running with traffic on marginal surface conditions. Any other conditions pretty much warrant 2wd or part-time (at which point the difference between a 242 and a 231 doesn't matter).

and finally,

Friends don't let friends spend money on a D35.
 
3XJFamily said:
Friends don't let friends spend money on a D35.
kid4lyf said:
I found a used D35 Detroit for $250 on ebay. Wheeled it for a year that way and later sold the axle for $300.
Nothing wrong with cheap turd polishing.
I got a year of good wheeling with very little cost.
Make what you've got the best it can be as long as the price is right.
After all, a polished turd still works better than an unpolished one.
 
Nevada City Sparky said:
Clear skies with 2" of clear solid ice on top of pavement on windy roads is what I have to deal with. I'm thinking an OX locker in the back is the way to go up here. Thoughts?

I’d stay away from the Ox Lockers if it freezes a lot in your area. People up here have problems with the cable freezing up, much like what happens with emergency brakes. Unfortunately ARBs suffer from the cold as well. The plastic lines have a tendency to crack and break in the cold. I’ve been on a couple of trips where guys had $800 open differentials. :laugh3: I’ve herd that the Detroit electric lockers are supposed to be pretty good, but I don’t know if they make them for Dana 30/35s. I still think that a gear driven limited slip is your best bet for snow and ice.
 
I have a 98 with c8.25. I was thinking of running a lunchbox locker in the rear and its a DD. My friend says I will go through a locker a year, cause its hard on it. True? Anyone running this settup that can speak from experience.
 
Wiley Coyote said:
I’d stay away from the Ox Lockers if it freezes a lot in your area. People up here have problems with the cable freezing up, much like what happens with emergency brakes. Unfortunately ARBs suffer from the cold as well. The plastic lines have a tendency to crack and break in the cold. I’ve been on a couple of trips where guys had $800 open differentials. :laugh3: I’ve herd that the Detroit electric lockers are supposed to be pretty good, but I don’t know if they make them for Dana 30/35s. I still think that a gear driven limited slip is your best bet for snow and ice.

You can get stainless air lines to prevent this...
 
kscherokee said:
I have a 98 with c8.25. I was thinking of running a lunchbox locker in the rear and its a DD. My friend says I will go through a locker a year, cause its hard on it. True? Anyone running this settup that can speak from experience.

Pure BS. Lockers are meant to be run on the street. Like I just said somewhere......many thousands and thousands of people have been running lockers in their rigs for many, many years.
 
Goatman said:
Pure BS. Lockers are meant to be run on the street. Like I just said somewhere......many thousands and thousands of people have been running lockers in their rigs for many, many years.
2X
I used to use Detroits on my street racers.
Had them in my '69 Roadrunner and my '71 Camaro.
 
extankerguy said:
You can get stainless air lines to prevent this...

True. The stainless kits are kind of expensive, but at that point you already have $1K tied up in the locker, air compressor and install. What’s a couple of hundred more to make sure it works all the time? :laugh3: The ARBs are not a bad system; I just wouldn’t dump that kind of money into a Dana 30/35. You can pick up full width Dana 44s out of a waggy relatively cheap and its not that hard to put them in an XJ. I’d much rather put the money into them.
 
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