Locking DD - Opinions ?

[3XJFamily]

Nothing wrong with cheap turd polishing.

Agreed.

Friends don't let friends spend money on a D35.

It's the expensive turd polishing I've got a problem with - regearing, a detroit or selectable locker, and labor will top $1,000. Bad investment. I got one guy here with an ARB equipped 35 for a TJ for $600, and another with a super 35 for an XJ for $700 - no one is interested. They both wish someone had told them not to dump a bunch of money into a D35. Both will agree they should of sunk the money into an 8.8 or d44. On the other hand, I just got offered a detroit and 1 superior axle for a d35 for $200 which I may pick up for my kids XJ.

 

[Roxtar]

Agreed.



It's the expensive turd polishing I've got a problem with - regearing, a detroit or selectable locker, and labor will top $1,000. Bad investment. I got one guy here with an ARB equipped 35 for a TJ for $600, and another with a super 35 for an XJ for $700 - no one is interested. They both wish someone had told them not to dump a bunch of money into a D35. Both will agree they should of sunk the money into an 8.8 or d44. On the other hand, I just got offered a detroit and 1 superior axle for a d35 for $200 which I may pick up for my kids XJ.

Exactly

 

[JnJ]

Agreed.



It's the expensive turd polishing I've got a problem with - regearing, a detroit or selectable locker, and labor will top $1,000. Bad investment. I got one guy here with an ARB equipped 35 for a TJ for $600, and another with a super 35 for an XJ for $700 - no one is interested. They both wish someone had told them not to dump a bunch of money into a D35. Both will agree they should of sunk the money into an 8.8 or d44. On the other hand, I just got offered a detroit and 1 superior axle for a d35 for $200 which I may pick up for my kids XJ.

One other thing to consider, will the axle make some $$ when you sell it. I see nothing wrong if someone builds a 30 with something like a Super 30 kit and runs 33s/35s and later after getting some use out of it, sells it to move up. Axles like that do sell well. You wont get back everything you put in money wise (you seldom do with any thing you re-sale) but you get some use out of it and some $$ back, which would be more then the bone stock 30 would get. Now, the D35 is a true turd. The most I did with that what was a lockright, stock 3.55s and 31s.

 

[Wiley Coyote]

I think you guys hit the nail on the head. I see nothing wrong with putting $250 for a Lock-Rite or a set of gears (assuming you can install them or know someone who can) into a Dana 35. You can build it up as you go and it will work fine with 31s or 33s. You can run it that way until you need/want/find a deal on a better axle. I think you are nuts to drop in an Ox locker or an ARB into a Dana 35. They are simply not worth the effort and you will never get your money back out of them. Who wants to pay a grand for a Dana 35?

 

[Rawbrown]

side note on ARB's
if you buy a front and a rear ARB. each one comes with a buttload of air line. Infact, one of them is enough to run air from the compressor under the hood to both axles and still have a bit left. then you can toss the second one into the back and have a spare coil of ARB line.
but I wouldn't waste coin on an arb in a 35. a 30 yes. I would toss a good used tracloc into the open 35 and be done with it. The 35 is just a flimsy POS. it can eat a detroit locker if it flexes much... which it will.

 

[KSXJ]

Thanks for the advice. I don't have the 35 though. I have the c8.25. Know where I can get a cheap lunchbox for that axle?

 

[NXJ]

Thanks for the replies, I really appreciate it. I checked the price for ARB, and it's totally out of the question - atleast on a 35. And regarding what you guys are saying about the OX (price ?), I ditched that option too. So that makes autolockers the only remaining option ? How about a NoSlip for the rear, it's suppose to be relatively cheap and smooth ? But then again, I would need a non-LS carrier, and if it doesn't perform superior over my LS - it wouldn't be worth it and I'll stay open. Thoughts ?

 

[JnJ]

If you have an LS, then just throw a auto locker in the front 30 and call it good.

 

[NXJ]

If you have an LS, then just throw a auto locker in the front 30 and call it good.

Good call, but which ? Keep stock gears ? I won't notice it in 2WD beacuse no tourqe is applied to them, right ? But, how do they perform drifting sideways in 60 MP/H with 4WD engaged ? How would it affect steering ? Banging ?

There are a lot of situations we need 4WD while driving on slippery/icy highways, how smart would a autolocker in the front be in those occasions ?

 

[Jeffro600]

Why on earth would you be drifting sideways at 60 MPH in 4WD????? :huh:

 

[XJ_ranger]

You can get stainless air lines to prevent this...

yes - but ARB designed their airline to be a weak link...

[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Isn't the supplied blue plastic air line a weak link?[/font]

[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Yes, and it's supposed to be. It is what is known as an "engineered weak link." Yes it is weak and easy to break, because it is supposed to be. This is so that, if you snag an air line, it'll break and can easily be repaired in the field with a splice or a new ferrule in a couple of minutes. However, if you run stronger air lines (like stainless steel or hydraulic hose) and you snag a line, the line may not break. Instead you end up pulling the fittings out of the axle or the compressor. This is much more difficult to fix.[/font]

[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Having said that - proper routing of the air-line is critical and will go a long way to ensuring failure-free operation. Make sure you route it well, tie it down every 12" or less, and keep it away from heat, vibration, sharp edges, and the like. No two installations will be exactly the same - but common sense and a good plan will help. Routing it along-side flexible brake hoses is one good option. In terrain where there is a lot of brush, bushes, logs and other debris, abrasion damage to the line can be minimized by protecting it with a sleeve of vacuum hose or wiring loom - without loosing the desired weak-link feature.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/14b_ARB_install-review
[/font]

 

[corbinafly]

Thanks for the replies, I really appreciate it. I checked the price for ARB, and it's totally out of the question - atleast on a 35. And regarding what you guys are saying about the OX (price ?), I ditched that option too. So that makes autolockers the only remaining option ? How about a NoSlip for the rear, it's suppose to be relatively cheap and smooth ? But then again, I would need a non-LS carrier, and if it doesn't perform superior over my LS - it wouldn't be worth it and I'll stay open. Thoughts ?

If you want cheap then go with an Aussie Locker. I hear they are supposed to be smooth, but you know how that goes. Maybe someone on the forum can chime in on them.

Kyung

 

[Wiley Coyote]

But, how do they perform drifting sideways in 60 MP/H with 4WD engaged ?
QUOTE]


I drive on snow and ice a solid 4 months out of the year, so I have somewhat of a clue. :laugh3: If the roads are bad enough that you need 4WD you shouldn’t be doing 60 mph or if the roads are clear enough that you can run 60 mph then you don’t need to be in 4 WD. I know that you have an NP 242 and you can run it in full time 4 WD at those speeds, but that doesn’t mean that you should. Its not a mater of the capability of the transfer case or lockers, it’s the traction on the road. A locker will not keep you from sliding off of the road. I have a Lock-Rite in the front of mine and it works fine for daily driving. It has a few quirks, like torque steer when you hit the gas and popping/banging when you do sharp turns in a parking lot. If I had to do it over again, I’d put a No-Slip (gear driven limited slip) in the front instead. It’s a lot smoother, almost as good traction and about $100 more than a Lock-Rite. You can install a No-Slip yourself in a couple of hours, just like a Lock-Rite.