RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I did this on a perfectly level slab and then took it to the shop to check my numbers, they agreed that I hit my mark dead on!
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3 Link Discussion 2024
- Thread starter Goose_XJ88
- Start date
- Location
- San Diego
I got it dead on, too! Only it took me a few tries!
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I used GoJeeps pinion vs caster write up to verify my lp d30 angles off the top balljoint before I started and that definitely helped me!I got it dead on, too! Only it took me a few tries!
- Location
- San Diego
I used that, too, and it helped somewhat. The problem I encountered was that the top ball joint isn't in a flat plane, but rather at a compound angle. Unless that angle finder is in a perfectly parallel plane with the vehicle, it doesn't give you a reliable measurement. If that angle finder is turned even just a little bit, the reading is off. Or maybe I just suck!
I think the front diff cover machined area is more reliable, but it still didn't work for me. Funny thing though, on my 95 after installing the lift kit, I just guessed at the measurements, took it to the shop, and I was right on. Just dumb luck. I can get the toe in right on the money with IRO's measuring brackets, that's not an issue. I've just always struggled with caster.
I take my stuff to an actual alignment shop too, not some tire busters. It's obvious by looking at their equipment to measure caster, that it's nearly impossible to duplicate that at home with a digital angle finder. I think I've been more lucky than good. I know that's usually how that works for me!
- Location
- Andover, VT
Just want to chime in with my experience. I've had a TnT radius arm kit for years. The crossmember is super beefy and is a great skid plate, but the single-piece design is certainly a drawback. Fortunately I've only had to remove it a few times over the years, but every time I need to I am reminded how cumbersome it is. Draining transmission fluid and removing the front driveshaft is possible without removing the crossmember, but it is a pain. Just had the driveshaft on/off yesterday.
I used to like how the arms mount so high, tucked up inside the unibody rails, but ultimately I agree with Evan saying that it's not at all necessary. It makes the angle steeper than it needs to be, and creates clearance issues that you wouldn't have if the arms were mounted a bit lower. Bear in mind, these are radius arms, so there is no consideration for upper arm mounting separation. I have brainstormed about modifying the crossmember to convert it to a 3 link. It would require cutting into the floor to create room for the upper link. Might do that someday. For now, radius arms work.
As far as joints go, I think solid joints all around would be a good decision. Either heims or flex joints. With a 4 link, bushings are required because the system is inherently over-constrained and the compliance in the bushings allows the system to not bind. This also helps with stability as the bushings are "self-centering" in the sense that they want to be in their neutral position. With a 3 link, the system is not over-constrained, so compliant joints are not required. You can have rigidly mounted joints for more precise control of the location of the axle, with the downside of having no self-centering/stability capability. A sway bar is more important with a system of all flex joints/heims that it is with a 4 link that uses bushings.
I used to like how the arms mount so high, tucked up inside the unibody rails, but ultimately I agree with Evan saying that it's not at all necessary. It makes the angle steeper than it needs to be, and creates clearance issues that you wouldn't have if the arms were mounted a bit lower. Bear in mind, these are radius arms, so there is no consideration for upper arm mounting separation. I have brainstormed about modifying the crossmember to convert it to a 3 link. It would require cutting into the floor to create room for the upper link. Might do that someday. For now, radius arms work.
As far as joints go, I think solid joints all around would be a good decision. Either heims or flex joints. With a 4 link, bushings are required because the system is inherently over-constrained and the compliance in the bushings allows the system to not bind. This also helps with stability as the bushings are "self-centering" in the sense that they want to be in their neutral position. With a 3 link, the system is not over-constrained, so compliant joints are not required. You can have rigidly mounted joints for more precise control of the location of the axle, with the downside of having no self-centering/stability capability. A sway bar is more important with a system of all flex joints/heims that it is with a 4 link that uses bushings.
The castor number is nothing morevthan a number imagined the tool doesnt have to exactly accurate but only used as means to adjust from a known point.
Your slab doesnt even need to be dead flat. Eyball positve castor take a read say 4ish positive. Go drive it if ut requured lots of steering to drive straight or dpesnt return to center comming out of turns bump it up to from the known 4.
Test drive again if it drives straight returns to center if your happy with it. Lock it in.
If not happy go bump it up again maybe to 7deg.
You actually dont even need a angle finder at all to set castor the number just doesnt nean squat
Your slab doesnt even need to be dead flat. Eyball positve castor take a read say 4ish positive. Go drive it if ut requured lots of steering to drive straight or dpesnt return to center comming out of turns bump it up to from the known 4.
Test drive again if it drives straight returns to center if your happy with it. Lock it in.
If not happy go bump it up again maybe to 7deg.
You actually dont even need a angle finder at all to set castor the number just doesnt nean squat
- Location
- San Diego
