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Llama Build- Slowly....

Wait. Didn't even think about it but how about 6 lug to 5x4.5 until I can do a front?

Im sure if you searched youd find out if the 6 on 6.5 -> 5 on 4.5 exist. if they do, I am sure you can find a single pair pretty cheap. I bet on under 80$ for a set shipped. if youre not going huge on tires (nothing over 35"s) just run the 30. Up to 35s youll be fine.

In the 35-40" range youll need to either be crazy and just run 40s on a stock 30 except a locker, and not do anything (allen) beef up the 30 like crazy and pray a lot to the dana 30 gods and make frequent virgin sacrifices to keep the 30 in one piece (me) or swap in a d60(or a 44) front axle (everyone else)
 
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Nothing like the feeling you get when you come home to a box with your name on it.
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Premium rotors, centric calipers, and moog upper control arm bushings. Hopefully installing brake stuff Monday. When my re trackbar bracket comes in I'll do the front axle swap and just pull the front drive shaft til I can get a rear geared.
 
Im sure if you searched youd find out if the 6 on 6.5 -> 5 on 4.5 exist. if they do, I am sure you can find a single pair pretty cheap. I bet on under 80$ for a set shipped. if youre not going huge on tires (nothing over 35"s) just run the 30. Up to 35s youll be fine.

In the 35-40" range youll need to either be crazy and just run 40s on a stock 30 except a locker, and not do anything (allen) beef up the 30 like crazy and pray a lot to the dana 30 gods and make frequent virgin sacrifices to keep the 30 in one piece (me) or swap in a d60(or a 44) front axle (everyone else)


did you guys not see my post 3 post back? with the link to a set of cheap arss c-list conversion spacers? jeez.
 
Some how missed it, thanks for pointing that out! Been looking on craigslist and yards for one with 4.90 the last few days. If I find one we'll see how it goes!!
 
What are you're thoughts and experiences on using an auto locker in the rear with a manual transmission while daily driving? I am considering throwing a Aussie or if I can find it cheap a Detroit in the rear when I gear.
 
you can usually get a grizzly (full carrier yukon) for around 500$ +- from some of the naxja vendors....
 
So minor work being done every now and then. Needed a smog check this year, passed after forgetting to put the carb sticker inside the hood. Hc were a little high, only 3 or 4 parts under fail. It could be my exhaust leak or o2 sensor going out. Have an extra one, just deciding if I want to pull the exhaust off and put in an apn or something else.

Bolted on the jcr sliders I picked up from zachandy last month about 2 weeks ago. Tuneup, fixed taillight wiring that was shorting out , and plan on puttin in some syncromesh tmw or Friday and see how the 10w30 looks. still looking for that montero axle in the right ratio. If I don't have it by mid June I'm swapping in the 3.55 d30/8.25 I have for now and getting rid of the d35.
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I have an Isuzu 44 I'm looking to get rid of. Factory disks with ebrake cables. Not sure on the ratio. I also have a master install kit, new detroit trutrack, and 5.13 gears for it. It's in really great shap as it is. Just throwing out there. I decided to keep my 8.8 and do a super88 kit instead of going this route. It's six lug. I also have a set of four 15x8s black rims in six lug flavor.
 
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Your jeep reminds me of exactly what mine looked like when I first put those sliders on it. Back when it had doors, all the windows, and straight sheetmetal. Hope they serv you well, I know for a fact they hold up to some hard hits.
 
Well it's been a terrible week for me personally, gf of five years broke up and I had to move. So I've been trying to do other things to take my mind off it. So today after getting the shed packed and moved I tackled the clutch issue.

Borrowed a vacuum bleeder to see if it was air in the line after replacing a weeping master cylinder. Last week i coild barely get it to shift in snd out of gears and had learn to rpm match which was terrible. Getting out of gear was easy but couldnt always get into gear afterwards. So today i crawled underneath and drained some fluid. Took out 4-5 ounces not including what I manually bled last week. Shifts smooth now but it seems the clutch disengages about a third of the way up. Is that normal in the ax15? It's the first clutch I've driven in 16 years and I vaguely remember the clutch disengaging at least half way up on that Honda.
 
Drives great, even better than when I changed all the clutch stuff 2 years ago.

Thursday going to change front bumpers and install a set of tow brackets I got from pick and pull hopefully. If nothing else clean the filthy thing inside and out.
 
Heard some loud ticking the other day when driving down the road. Stopped the engine and restarted after checking oil. Sound went away. So did a compression check for piece of mind.

Warm engine, front to back
140
130
150
140
150
150

The 130 anything to be concerned about?
 
id say no. they are all within 20 PSI of each. My lowest is my number one at 120 and my number 6 is my highest at 155 and I dont really sweat it. I think 20-30 PSI for the range and a minimum of 115 is acceptable. I would call it good.

ticking is either exhuast leak or lifter tick. check out you manifold bolts and down pipe bolts with a wrench or socket. THrow some MMO in the crank case, some tranny fluid too, run it for few hundred miles, change oil. then throw some sea foam in the gas tank, crank case, and then in through the intake, then change oil and plugs after another say 50 miles. I bet that will do a really killer job of cleaning up your intake and combustion chamber .
 
Hadn't heard about trans fluid in the oil before. Seems to work from what I've read. I've got a nice crack on the exhaust header at the collector. Might be time for an apn header since I passed smog this year and shouldn't need to worry about it for a while. Didn't check the bolts yet, try to get those tmw. Thanks for the advice!
 
Probably the exhaust leak. Do that ASAP, and also run some detergents through the oil to clean out the engine.
 
When you did the compression check you should have poured a few caps full of oil into the cylinder with low pressure and then retested it. That way you could have narrowed down what is causing the low pressure.

If the compression goes up after you squirt some oil in there, then it is likely your rings that are leaking pressure. If nothing changes, then it is likely leaking pressure out of a valve that is not seated properly.
 
I'll probably check it again after the oil treatments and the exhaust change. I considered doing the wet check but I didn't have a convinient way to getting in the hole and it was getting late.
 
Finally got around to fixing my hatch struts. I used two off of a explorer since I've never noticed those sagging at pick n pull. Fits ok, just need to clearance the trim a little still. Maybe just enlarge the hole that's there about half an inch.
Sits a couple inches lower than stock but that is much better than trying to hold it open or propping it.


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Also added a set of factory tow hooks in the front but forgot to snap a few pictures. Looks like the front end has been hit, things didn't line up perfectly.
 
Did you ever run the trans fluid through to get rid of the lifter tick?
 
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