• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Iron Rock Long Arm Upgrade

I've got a question? Reading through the instructions they call to drill out the forward holes to a "T" drill or .359 and then tap it to a 7/16-14NC. I went out and bought a tap and drill combo and the 7/16-14NC came with a 3/8 drill to use. What did you use? I checked and the bolts match the tap.

I didn't do this. However, I did go out and finally find a Letter T drill bit! I ended up welding on the brackets. Welding them on is always better.
 
Here's some pics of the install..

On the lift, getting ready to start. went from 6.5" shortarm w/2" spacers, to IRO longarm and 8" springs +2" spacers..

iro01preinstallsmall.jpg



Drop Brackets that are being removed:
dsc01489resized.jpg


Started with the mounts and crossmember:
iro05crossmembersmall.jpg


Then the track arm bracket:
iro06trackbarsmall.jpg


The old destroyed trackarm:
iro04oldtrashbarsmall.jpg


Old 6.5" spring and new 8" spring (7" ZJ)

iro078invs65insmall.jpg


Drivers side arm on:
iro09driversidedonesmal.jpg

NOTE: directions say to leave the pass side arms intact, while you install the drivers side. I found this to be near impossible to rotate the rear of the arm upward to it's mount, requiring me to remove the pass. side upper arm, in order to easily rotate the LA up.


iro10driverssidesmall.jpg

iro12adjuster2small.jpg

iro11adjustersmall.jpg


I'm tired..
iro14imtiredsmall.jpg


Drooped:
iro14droopsmall.jpg


DONE!
iro15done1small.jpg


iro16done2small.jpg




All in all, the install was quite easy, and straight-forward. I did have the luxury of using a lift, but even in the driveway, it'd been fairly simple, with the only exception being the spring-swap portion that I did.

The only other "glitch" that I ran across, was that one of the crossmember bolt/nut sections (pass side, rear/lower) where the middle piece joins the pass. rail piece, was that one of the welded nuts was a tad off, making it nearly impossible to assemble w/o modification..


As for your drill bit vs. tap question:
23/64 = .3594"
3/8 = .375"

I used a 23/64ths, but I had one.
 
Last edited:
Additionally, the 3/8" bit works fine, but the 23/64 bit allows for more thread surface.. Here's a pic I found to further explain what I'm saying..

Fractional-Thread.jpg
 
That's the best picture I've seen of that bracket yet. It helps explain it a little better to me. Do you think you can take some more of it and explain how one would change caster?
 
Looks like a simple and strong design.you do know that the L/A system and the trac bar are designed for a 8" lift max, not 10". hope you invested in OTK steering also. good write up.
 
Pulled an all nighter and installed mine. Took me about 5 1/2 hours using the front yard. So far have only taken it around the block but the difference in ride quality is amazing. I guess everone is right when they say you can't beat a long arm. Really cool part is you don't have to cut any of the stock mounts so you can always conver back when you go to sell the rig.
 
thats exactly what i was thinking. if you dont like it, take it off and go back to adj. arms. just cant figure out the adjuster. anybody explain it with some pix please.:confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
it's fairly easy.. the more you rotate the adjuster's top portion toward the front, the top of the axle is rotated forward, raiding your pinion angle upward.

Yeah, i do know it's designed for 8". OTK steering is next, along with front shocks.
 
Wow those arms hang low. Are those the "critical path" upgraded arms or whatever they are called?




So the entire front suspension is held on by 6 bolts that go into sheet metal?
 
Wait:
Did you install the passenger side link backwards? The bend doesn't match the driver's side.
 
Lets see, how many are on a stock front end that go into sheet metal?
Wait, so your comparing the stock mounts (there are four of them) to the IR mounts (there are two of them)? :roflmao:


I take it you have never tried to cut off stock lower control arm mounts. They are a PITA to get off, mainly because it is several 1/8'' pieces of steel stamped together. They arnt going to fail.

People havnt had any issues with the IR stuff, but it still looks sketchy to me. It is literally six bolts holding up the tranny, tcase and then entire front suspension. Is that right?


:dunno: The if it aint RE,TNT,ETC haters are showing there colors.

There is a reason people like RE and T&T.......
 
People havnt had any issues with the IR stuff, but it still looks sketchy to me. It is literally six bolts holding up the tranny, tcase and then entire front suspension. Is that right?

There is a reason people like RE and T&T.......

I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the IRO setup. Its all in personal preference, as far as I am concerned.
 
2 on bracket and 2 under crossmember.fact is unless you completely rip the crossmember off! it isn't a problem. there are no issues with 6 bolts and the new 1/4" crossmember.just haters and RE's L/A is a cluster %&&*****! i helped install 1 once. seen enough lol.
 
ONLY the gods of lifts know you are wrong..RIGHT starboard m...LMfao.. sorry just having fun with you..I have no reason but to have fun..But the way, i'll buy the Iron rock kit real soon..Then we will find out how GREAT this kit is..It is going to smoke that crap you call great..whats that name again? OH yea RE
 
Back
Top