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Iron Rock Long Arm Upgrade

maybe i should start a new thread, but i have a question about the IRO trackbar and bracket. im looking into getting a HD trackbar that mounts in double shear with a new frame bracket. the question is, does the trackbar need a flex joint? i notice that RE and other have the flex joint but IRO does not. does the axle when cycled warrant a flex joint or do rubber bushings have enough range of motion to not cause the bushing to bind?
 
Maybe IRO should just charge $1000 and that will fix everybodys probs. then it will be a legit LA kit. hahaha just messin with you guys
 
maybe i should start a new thread, but i have a question about the IRO trackbar and bracket. im looking into getting a HD trackbar that mounts in double shear with a new frame bracket. the question is, does the trackbar need a flex joint? i notice that RE and other have the flex joint but IRO does not. does the axle when cycled warrant a flex joint or do rubber bushings have enough range of motion to not cause the bushing to bind?
In a word NO! no bushing bind!
 
Replaced my track bar with theirs when I got the LA. You end up with less posibility of bind with the double shear because you have full rotation on the bushings. With a TRE like factory, drop your suspension far enough and you hit the max the TRE will pivot and thats the end of your travel.
 
BTW how come you can't use them with smaller than 4.5" lift? Is it an issue of travel? Does that mean if you use 31" tires with 4.5" lift you can't take full advantage of uptravel?
 
BTW how come you can't use them with smaller than 4.5" lift? Is it an issue of travel? Does that mean if you use 31" tires with 4.5" lift you can't take full advantage of uptravel?

If you are talking about the track bar its made for 3-8 inch lifts. There are so many factors in uptravel(control arms, swaybar, track bar, etc.) that even if you have 31's on a 4.5" lift you won't necessarily have more flex than 4.5" with 35's
 
My guess is that the arms are likely to hit the uni-frame before you've gotten a lot of usable up-travel if they don't start out pointed a little lower...
Think that the uni-rail is from "9" to "3". If the arm is pointed halfway from "8" to "9" at ride height, the axle can't go much higher before the arm hits "9" and contacts something it shouldn't.

Of course, bump stops springs tire size and even fender trimming are all going to play into this as well - it probably isn't as cut & dry as a "minimum lift height"...
 
I'm going to ramp my rig after I get off of work tonight and take some pics. Haven't trimmed the fenders so this may be interesting.
 
Ramp pics, I have some serious trimming to do on the front. These are 35's..
Ramp001.jpg

Ramp002.jpg

Ramp003.jpg

Ramp004.jpg


I think I will have to trip the driverside lower control arm bracket because the arm does hang up on it. For that matter Its pretty stuffed as it is so this might be a good spot to bump stop it. My 5.5" springs were hanging 3 inches below the upper pad.
 
here's mine, from sunday.. 33x12.50s, 10" lift (8" spring, 2x1" spacers).. as you can kinda see, the spring is about 4-5" from the top perch.. Yeah, it's a little flexy.

iroflex.jpg
 
Thanks for posting those photos Squidd. I can see that the drop brackets would prevent the arms from angling upward for compression with 2" lift


I have to say though... I think they should have integrated vertical plates to screw into the sides of the uniframe rails, and they should have been as long as possible, maybe 6 screws per side on the bottoms 6 on each side. The stock brackets are welded to the corners, which would be very strong places, but this bolts to the flat bottom part.
 
I think they should have integrated vertical plates to screw into the sides of the uniframe rails, and they should have been as long as possible, maybe 6 screws per side on the bottoms 6 on each side. .

how about bolts that go through the frame rails with plates on the other side? dont think screws would hold in the thin metal of the frame rails.
 
That's what I meant, go all the way through. I guess you'd need a vertical plate on each side of the rail though, so you don't screw too hard and crush the rail
 
here's mine, from sunday.. 33x12.50s, 10" lift (8" spring, 2x1" spacers).. as you can kinda see, the spring is about 4-5" from the top perch.. Yeah, it's a little flexy.

iroflex.jpg

I think your truck would be better, if you removed about 7" of lift, and learned how to trim the fenders.

With normal amounts of lift, the rear will actually flex. Its not flexing in that pic, as the tire isnt even close to the wheel well.

Unless you wanted a serious amount of lift, so you didnt have to trim, but that just makes the truck very unstable.
 
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I think your truck would be better, if you removed about 7" of lift, and learned how to trim the fenders.

With normal amounts of lift, the rear will actually flex. Its not flexing in that pic, as the tire isnt even close to the wheel well.

Unless you wanted a serious amount of lift, so you didnt have to trim, but that just makes the truck very unstable.

I agree that he should trim and lose some lift for a lower COG, but his rear would not flex under any circumstances where the truck is sitting. My rear doesn't flex either when the axle is level.
 
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