- Location
- San Bruno, CA.
Actually I think that dig was intended for Beezil. 
Jes
Edit, oops, was posting the same time as Matt!
Jes
Edit, oops, was posting the same time as Matt!
Internal Cage Guys
- Thread starter SeanP
- Start date
FarmerMatt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Down on the Farm
Oh... Here's the link to the site where my pics are. If you want I can take some more detailed pics of the mounting plates. I've got all the interior stripped out of the rig right now.
http://home.earthlink.net/~pigie/index.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~pigie/index.html
SeanP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rocklin, CA
Thanks, Matt. Yeah, any close ups of where the A & B pillars meet the floor would be cool.
SeanP
SeanP
TN William
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kingston, TN
Jon,
Glad to see someone else has realized the benefit of tying the seat mounts into the cage. Since I tossed the factory console I made two "saddles" to cross the transmission hump and tied into my cage on each side. I feel a lot safer with the cage, seats, and harness all ine unit.
Glad to see someone else has realized the benefit of tying the seat mounts into the cage. Since I tossed the factory console I made two "saddles" to cross the transmission hump and tied into my cage on each side. I feel a lot safer with the cage, seats, and harness all ine unit.
- Location
- Brighton, CO
Yeah, the tranny hump is a pain to deal with, but I'm glad I did everything at once. I also got rid of the heavy ass stock leather seats and mounts... My pig is heavy enough already.
-Jon
-Jon
4ward
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Dayton, OH
Jon, you ever going to have that thing done? SeanP, you ever going to have that thing done? Beezil, you ever going to have that thing done?
This is sounding like web wheeler central anymore
This is sounding like web wheeler central anymore
vintagespeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upland, CA
M. Lake said:
I'm not yet impressed with that one, need to see some pics of FINISHED work. And where do you get reverse-cut 5.38s for a D44 anyway? He never gave me a straight answer to that one when asked.
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
I just picked up a set of 5.38's for a RC44 where I go for all my driveline parts....
National drivetrain in Chicago.
ask for Kevin ethelridge.
tell him bj mcdonald sent you.
National drivetrain in Chicago.
ask for Kevin ethelridge.
tell him bj mcdonald sent you.
- Location
- Brighton, CO
WunTunn-
My junk is looking so good on jackstands, I've chosen to leave it there. That's why I'm making it lighter, I don't want to stress the stands I'm still hoping for Moab, but when my fingers get cramped from typing, I find it harder to get any work done in the garage. Let's see some pics of the top secret rear/ body design.
-Jon
My junk is looking so good on jackstands, I've chosen to leave it there. That's why I'm making it lighter, I don't want to stress the stands
I'm still hoping for Moab, but when my fingers get cramped from typing, I find it harder to get any work done in the garage. Let's see some pics of the top secret rear/ body design.-Jon
KarmirXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Granada Hills, California
Kaczman said:Yeah, the tranny hump is a pain to deal with, but I'm glad I did everything at once. I also got rid of the heavy ass stock leather seats and mounts... My pig is heavy enough already.
-Jon
KACZman you have any shots on how you tied the tubes to the pillars?
sure like to see more pics of that cage... that looks sweet!
- Location
- Brighton, CO
Uhhh, what tubes to what pillars? The cage isn't tied into the A, B, or C pillars. Now, when the roof is crushed beyond repair, I'll cut it off and run it as is.
-Jon
-Jon
4ward
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Dayton, OH
Jon, you'll just have to show up to Moab to see it.
Sean
Sean
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
SeanP, here's the link to my cage pics: http://fototime.com/inv/1BC14166A317E93
My B pillar hoop is bolted through the floor, with 3/16" plates on both sides. I heard that it's a good idea to use different size plates on the top and bottom, so there isn't a shear line between the plates, so that's what I did. I didn't bother to pull up the carpet, but you could. The C pillar hoops, both inside and outside, are welded to the floor. The frame is close to the inside of the wheel wells there, so you can catch the top of the frame with the C pillar plates. It would also be simple to bolt through in that location, if you used the couple of inches of floor between the frame and the wheel wells, maybe even using an angle plate on the bottom to catch the side of the frame.
The key to the strength of my cage is that it's also tied into the A, B, and C pillars, not just mounted to the floor, making the strength of the floor plates a little less critical. I decided to stick with the unibody theme, and keep everything tied together, looking for maximum rigidity with minimum weight.
Happy diaper changing,
My B pillar hoop is bolted through the floor, with 3/16" plates on both sides. I heard that it's a good idea to use different size plates on the top and bottom, so there isn't a shear line between the plates, so that's what I did. I didn't bother to pull up the carpet, but you could. The C pillar hoops, both inside and outside, are welded to the floor. The frame is close to the inside of the wheel wells there, so you can catch the top of the frame with the C pillar plates. It would also be simple to bolt through in that location, if you used the couple of inches of floor between the frame and the wheel wells, maybe even using an angle plate on the bottom to catch the side of the frame.
The key to the strength of my cage is that it's also tied into the A, B, and C pillars, not just mounted to the floor, making the strength of the floor plates a little less critical. I decided to stick with the unibody theme, and keep everything tied together, looking for maximum rigidity with minimum weight.
Happy diaper changing,
PUV kits are made to be welded in. Before I began making them I researched quite a bit on which way is best for attatching the roll cage....there was no definite answer. Going with the rules outlined by organized race/competition sanctions is IMHO the best way to go without having to go out and wreck several roll cage equipped XJs in crash tests. But in this case even that was split some organizations required bolting others welding. I originally wanted to make bolt-to-the-floor cages but after speaking to a few race car fabricators in person they convinced me that there is nothing better than welding it in. I think the key really is to have many attatchement points triangulation and spreader bars on your cage, this will spread the load so much that even if one leg were to actually punch through it would not go far and its movement would not jeopardize your safety. Not to mention the structural support such a design lends truly makes the cage part of the chassis, which is ideal.
KACZman, nice cage similar to mine in many ways.
XJguy
KACZman, nice cage similar to mine in many ways.
XJguy
SeanP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rocklin, CA
thanks for the link, richard. you have some damn fine fab work there. hope to have a nice, finished rig soon.
seanp
seanp
KarmirXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Granada Hills, California
Kaczman said:
oh my bad... those looked like they where some how tied in. kinda seamed weired at first, thats why I asked.
anyway nice cage!
- Location
- NE Indiana
my cage
I will put together a full post with info and pics of my cage, but since we're talking cages, this cage was built two weeks before my trip to moab last week. Right now it just covers the drivers compartment as I'm not sure what is going to happen with the back body on the jeep this winter.....but its about damn time i got a cage....
The cage is welded to 4x6 3/16th floor plates and sandwhiched on the bottom side, from the bottom the cage is tied into the plated frame. You can also see in the one pic where we tied the cage into the shoulder belt mount for the stock seat belts. We also caged in the mounts for the seats to make it as strong as we could make them. Since these pics were taken roll bar padding was added. For most of my wheelin in moab and colorado last week I managed to not smash my noodle on any of the monkey bars.
mac 'nearly 2.5 years in the making' gyvr
I will put together a full post with info and pics of my cage, but since we're talking cages, this cage was built two weeks before my trip to moab last week. Right now it just covers the drivers compartment as I'm not sure what is going to happen with the back body on the jeep this winter.....but its about damn time i got a cage....
The cage is welded to 4x6 3/16th floor plates and sandwhiched on the bottom side, from the bottom the cage is tied into the plated frame. You can also see in the one pic where we tied the cage into the shoulder belt mount for the stock seat belts. We also caged in the mounts for the seats to make it as strong as we could make them. Since these pics were taken roll bar padding was added. For most of my wheelin in moab and colorado last week I managed to not smash my noodle on any of the monkey bars.
mac 'nearly 2.5 years in the making' gyvr
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
Nice Mac. when Sewerboy told me you used DOM, I almost fell of my chair!
can you take pics of your frame tie-ins? I've been asked how I did mine before, and I'm too lazy to take a picture of it.
so where the pics from moab? what did you run?
I'm expecting a full report on a non-tech thread if you haven't started one already.
can you take pics of your frame tie-ins? I've been asked how I did mine before, and I'm too lazy to take a picture of it.
so where the pics from moab? what did you run?
I'm expecting a full report on a non-tech thread if you haven't started one already.
MMIXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Golden, CO
Goatman said:
thanks for sharing...
unless i overlooked it, i don't see a photo of how/where the cage attaches up front near the dash? that seems the awkward point in an XJ internal cage...
thanks in advance.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
MMIXJ said:
Ah ha, gotcha...
The internal A pillar down bars attach to the A pillars.......the bars stop at the dash. A strip of metal is attached to the length of the A pillars, and the cage tubes are welded to those strips. I did it this way because my Dad has trouble getting in already, and he goes with me a lot (74 with a knee replaced), so I didn't want to hinder egress. Also, I have a partial external cage, and the exterior A hoop down bars are attached to the side of the cowl, as well as to the rock rails and tied to the frame.
