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Help me with front axle choice

Spearfisher XJ said:
I have had a Currie 9 inch for well over 12 years now, and it has not hit the oil pan yet, and I have pushed the XJ pretty hard in those years. It's fine.
Click to expand...

How much lift are you running and how much upward travel do you have?

I'm adjusting the ACOS up from the "no lift" setting upward 1" and adding 1" of additional bump stops.

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
 
Explorer 1 said:
IMG_0139.jpg


Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
Click to expand...

question.... what is the giant hole in your frame rail for?
 
To the OP: Just some friendly advice, gusset the upper part of the inner C's and truss the housing either across the front or at least on the longside across the top.

I have the same housing that's 5 yrs old and it's bent up pretty good. I don't jump my junk or race through the desert, just from normal rockcrawling on 35/36" tires. I'm getting ready to pull it to have straightened and reinforced, but learn from my mistake and do it now.
 
Gasman said:
To the OP: Just some friendly advice, gusset the upper part of the inner C's and truss the housing either across the front or at least on the longside across the top.

I have the same housing that's 5 yrs old and it's bent up pretty good. I don't jump my junk or race through the desert, just from normal rockcrawling on 35/36" tires. I'm getting ready to pull it to have straightened and reinforced, but learn from my mistake and do it now.
Click to expand...

Any pictures of your gussets available? Or is there some premade on the market?

Thanks for the encouragement to truss the axle. Seeing that I came from a Dana 30 and this was never a prior problem, I suspect that it will do just fine.....if not, you warned me.

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
 
Very nice. Did you go 31 or 35 spline? With the Dana 30 outers 31's should be fine as they are the weak point, though since you chose RCV's this should be a great axle even at 37's. Why did you choose the Currie over a Tru Hi9 if I might ask?
 
Gasman said:
To the OP: Just some friendly advice, gusset the upper part of the inner C's and truss the housing either across the front or at least on the longside across the top.

I have the same housing that's 5 yrs old and it's bent up pretty good. I don't jump my junk or race through the desert, just from normal rockcrawling on 35/36" tires. I'm getting ready to pull it to have straightened and reinforced, but learn from my mistake and do it now.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip......I picked these up today and will weld them in tomorrow.

IMG_0154-1.jpg


Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
 
Explorer 1 said:
Thanks for the tip......I picked these up today and will weld them in tomorrow.

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
Click to expand...

LOL, I was just going to post a link but you obviously beat me to it. Those are exactly what I was talking about. Just easy insurance and simple to do.

I missed what tire size/wheeling you plan on doing so you might be fine W/O a truss but just wanted to point out my experience. I've had zero issues with gears or axle breakage though (I run a True HI 9 3rd and the Warn 30 spline outers) which was my reason for upgrading. After going to 35's I was snapping axles and stripping ring gear teeth on the D30.
 
Gasman said:
LOL, I was just going to post a link but you obviously beat me to it. Those are exactly what I was talking about. Just easy insurance and simple to do.

I missed what tire size/wheeling you plan on doing so you might be fine W/O a truss but just wanted to point out my experience. I've had zero issues with gears or axle breakage though (I run a True HI 9 3rd and the Warn 30 spline outers) which was my reason for upgrading. After going to 35's I was snapping axles and stripping ring gear teeth on the D30.
Click to expand...

I've been running 35x12.50's. First to go was the ring and pinion on the rear 35 and then 5 teeth on the front Dana 30 so time was ripe to upgrade both.

One question, the gussets are flat but the contour of the "C" isn't. Do you tag weld in the top and middle then beat into shape the lower 1/3 to match the contour of the inner "C"?

IMG_0156.jpg


Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
 
Honestly I can see you're reasoning, but I think building a 9" with D30 outers is nutty.

I would say as far as the gussets heat and bend to where they fit.
 
The "Nutty" Off roader

hadfield4wd said:
Honestly I can see you're reasoning, but I think building a 9" with D30 outers is nutty.

I would say as far as the gussets heat and bend to where they fit.
Click to expand...

I checked with the mfg and they said the same, heat and bend (Beat) into the proper form.

Nutty.........Ok

Thanks,
Nutty Fred
Explorer 1
 
The gusset is supposed to be welded to the back of the "c" like the ones that came on the bottom. You may need to "shape" them a bit so they clear the springs but that's how I've always seen them
 
You might want to remove the upper ball joints before that much welding. I have seen a few JK upper BJ's get cooked out after the upper (the style you have there) gussets were welded in.
 
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