Cage construction

[Jump This]

Rick, did you just weld that plate on top of the sheet metal or did you expose the frame rail. Cuz that sheet metal is only spot welded to the frame rail. for mine, I had to remove the sheet metal and get to the clean flat frame rail. the sheet metal on top was all un-pretty. cut off wheel, body saw and an air chisel got it out. To bad its all gonna come back out again. I just don't feel like working with the frame rails.

Its welded to the plate. I couldn't see any advantage to taking it down to the frame rail. God knows there isn't much metal there anyway! The plate I added is broad enough to be able to either bolt or weld additional support for the hangers. Although my bigger concern is cracking the damn thin factory plate. I was thinking that using doublers without welding would have been a better idea......too late now!
So, if your not going to work with the factory rails, are you going to link it or just plain ol' build new rails?

Rick

BTW you are just to take a look at the ring and pinion mesh on that 30, its one of Cal's old ones and ...well....you know Cal.

 

[Jump This]

just wandering what wire you use? i use my mostly welder for work, and most is heavy guage. never bought anything besides .030. and what do you recomend for sheet

I use .023 for thin plate and .035 for thicker stuff.

 

[Captain Ron]

I made some sheet metal one time. I forgot how I did it though.


So, ah, Rick.

It took you until the cage base plates to put down a somewhat even, over built up bead, only to run outta wire?



--ron

 

[Jump This]

I made some sheet metal one time. I forgot how I did it though.


So, ah, Rick.

It took you until the cage base plates to put down a somewhat even, over built up bead, only to run outta wire?



--ron

But it was purdy!


BTW I have trying to build myself up for years...couldn't do it, might as well work on sand castles and welds instead....
and don't pick on my spelling, I'm sensitive that way!
:roflmao:

 

[Captain Ron]

...
and don't pick on my spelling, I'm sensitive that way!
:roflmao:

No sweat. I'll stick to your welding.

--ron

 

[Jump This]

No sweat. I'll stick to your welding.

--ron

Thats what friends are for!
:twak:

 

[Rawbrown]

Thats what I was talking about. the sheet metal that you welded to is spot welded to the frame rail and the leaf hanger. mine was buckled and wrinkly and ripped. removing it, exposing the frame railwas the best option.
Now since I'm not as anal as Ron:scottm:. I just cut the hole to expose the frame rail, clean it and weld my plat to it. Knowing the pirate... He would shape the plate to fit the cut out and weld it all up with such a perfect weld.
But all I cared about was that my cage wasn't to heavy but strong enough to protect me... barely. I mean, it might not hold up in the high speed crap that I do. but it should be plenty fine for the trail.

The name of the game is weight. Keep it light.

I think I farted on that D30 earlier today...:flame:

 

[Jump This]

Keep it light....yeah I know!
But I'd like to survive the high speed crap we
get ourselves into!

 

[Jump This]

After looking into many options as far as dove tailing the rear, I have decided to change directions and tube out the rear. I may end up with the stock body panel Dzus fastened to the tube in some way, but I wasn't getting where I wanted to be with the rear quarter hanging out the way it was. I probably won't have much time to work on it until this weekend. I'll post some pictures then.

Rick

 

[Jump This]

A little more work done today! It was father's day and all I wanted was to be able to work in the garage without any interruptions and to watch the Padre game. Mission accomplished!

Rick

 

[Rawbrown]

Dude,
Just take the rest of it off allready...

 

[Jump This]

Dude,
Just take the rest of it off allready...

NO!

 

[Rawbrown]

 

[Jump This]

Just some more meat...I mean weight!

 

[Jump This]

I've changed my mind.....dump the rear nerf bars.

 

[Rawbrown]

Rick,
Some of the other tube guys might chime in...
first off, I don't like the rear nerf bars... Ghey.
secondly, I think that from a structural stand point, those two that run from the rear frame rail plates up in an "S" shape up to the roof. I don't like the bends. Unless you gusset them, they are a weak point. I would suggest running them in a straight 45 from the frame rail to D pillar. with your hoop at the D pillar.

 

[Jump This]

Rick,
Some of the other tube guys might chime in...
first off, I don't like the rear nerf bars... Ghey.
secondly, I think that from a structural stand point, those two that run from the rear frame rail plates up in an "S" shape up to the roof. I don't like the bends. Unless you gusset them, they are a weak point. I would suggest running them in a straight 45 from the frame rail to D pillar. with your hoop at the D pillar.

The nerfs are going....sometimes I need to see it before I vote it off the Jeep!

And about the S bends.....if you follow the first mid section bend downward, there will be a tube that will follow down to the base. That tube will also act as the upper shock mount support.
Photobucket is slow tonight otherwise I'd show you a picture of one of my dune buggies that I am taking the design clue from. Not light, but strong.
Not to mention that going straight is just what every one of the buggie guys do....I gotta' be different!


Rick

 

[Rawbrown]

how about this? since you don't have to worry about getting it smogged... get rid of the fuel tank. move the spare tire back and down. just inside of the rear hangers. Then mount a 12 Gallon fuel cell just in front and under the spare leaving access to fuel up. a 12 gallon fuel cell should clear inside the shocks.

I dunno, my jeep only gets up to 80 driving through JV...:wave:
Maybe Capt Ron will have some insight... when he is not so busy?

 

[Jump This]

how about this? since you don't have to worry about getting it smogged... get rid of the fuel tank. move the spare tire back and down. just inside of the rear hangers. Then mount a 12 Gallon fuel cell just in front and under the spare leaving access to fuel up. a 12 gallon fuel cell should clear inside the shocks.

I dunno, my jeep only gets up to 80 driving through JV...:wave:
Maybe Capt Ron will have some insight... when he is not so busy?

I do like that idea, I have seen some trucks done like that.
The spare can go anywhere, the location in the picture was just for some
clearance check. I'm tossing the stock tank back in for a while, I might run as small as a ten gal cell later.
And 80 is okay, but coming back from the hammers thru the upper wash....I'd bet 100 should be doable...

Rick

 

[Rawbrown]

I had question, Dave, Paul, Goat and capt. about what size fuel cell to run. 10-12 is doeable. I'm looking at the 12Gallon cell from Jaz products. measures 17.5L x 16 W x 10 H. the next step down from Jaz is 8 gallons. There are probably others out there, but Jaz makes em clear if you want. Also, sink the fuel cell down in between the frame rails, that will clear the diff. That should keep the COG lower. But leave the roof as it is. I should be right behind you as soon as I can get some $$$ for the tubing.