B.Lee Offroad 3-link?
- Thread starter FuryIII
- Start date
This is the link to the kit:
http://www.bleeoffroad.com/index.php/suspension/9-articles/23-xj-3-link-long-arm-upgrade
http://www.bleeoffroad.com/index.php/suspension/9-articles/23-xj-3-link-long-arm-upgrade
89eliminator
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Delphi, IN
that looks poorly designed. not only does it only have 3 bolts per side, but if you want take the crossmember off you have to drop the whole front suspension
- Location
- Southwest IN
^ Agreed. If you have to have a bolt in kit that would work, but there are better options with some light fab work.
I installed (ok, helped with installation
) a HD Offroad Engineering (
sponsor BTW) 3 Link on my XJ over the weekend, and while I haven't wheeled it yet I did some yard flexing and it works great. It does require welding, but you will end up with a stout front suspension with miles of travel.
Looks like the B. Lee kit is $750, you can get the HDOR 3 link done for ~$650 depending on your local tube prices. If you don't already have frame stiffners you will have to factor in that cost, but it is very worthwhile anyway.
http://hdoffroadengineering.myshopi...h-d-offroad-engineering-xj-3-link-bracket-kit
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1113332&highlight=offroad+link
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=246120449&postcount=165
I installed (ok, helped with installation
) a HD Offroad Engineering ( sponsor BTW) 3 Link on my XJ over the weekend, and while I haven't wheeled it yet I did some yard flexing and it works great. It does require welding, but you will end up with a stout front suspension with miles of travel. Looks like the B. Lee kit is $750, you can get the HDOR 3 link done for ~$650 depending on your local tube prices. If you don't already have frame stiffners you will have to factor in that cost, but it is very worthwhile anyway.
http://hdoffroadengineering.myshopi...h-d-offroad-engineering-xj-3-link-bracket-kit
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1113332&highlight=offroad+link
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=246120449&postcount=165
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
I hope they're not using factory hardware for the upper. I wouldn't trust that 10mm bolt on a 3 link.
- Location
- Southwest IN
I'm running a Currie johnny joint cartridge in the driver side UCA mount with a 1/2" bolt. Plenty beefy and no issues with the driver side UCA hitting anything.
TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
- Location
- Warsaw, IN
HD Offroad's 3 link gets mounted to the frame rails and still leaves the crossmeber able to be removed. Also look at Clayton's long arm crossmember. Its a 3 piece design and is what i have based my builds off off and works great. Especially if i have to remove the trans or transfer case.
89eliminator
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Delphi, IN
most others are also shitty designs. Clayton and Full Traction or two that i know of that allow you to unbolt the crossmember without messing with suspension.
notamos
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins, CO
I have a Synergy long arm setup on my XJ. 4-link though.
TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
Yes, it would be nice, but not being able to drop the middle of the cross member out doesn't make it a bad design, just maybe not as user friendly as it could be.
Apparently it's not that big of a deal...as the 'shitty designs' have sold tons for their makers.
Apparently it's not that big of a deal...as the 'shitty designs' have sold tons for their makers.
89eliminator
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Delphi, IN
everyone has an opinion and ideal setup.
TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
True, and I am still waffling over which way to go...Clayton or TNT.
I was just pointing out, no matter what you or I think, the different designs are still making money for their designers.
And yes, I do like the idea of a 3 piece cross member for the record, but it's not a game killer for me.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
I would not feel good running that setup. Ive installed and ran clayton and TNT, the tnt sucked for pulling the t case, I think the new style lets you pull the t case through ? I love the clayton setup for pulling the tcase.
the full traction kit I installed on a friends rig was freaking awesome. I love that kit.
the full traction kit I installed on a friends rig was freaking awesome. I love that kit.
paddlernate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR
I have the TNT- get the Clayton, ignore the rest.
RoyalXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Deptford, NJ
My Clayton crossmember got pretty tore up. I kept bending the tabs against the joints from the rocks. For me they just hang too low. That's why this time I went with TnT.
Full Traction was another kit I was looking at. The whole kit looks to be a great package.
paddlernate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR
Royal, do you not get absurd wheel hop with the TNT radius arms? If not, what do you think your secret is? What is your caster angle btw?
Check this video out, I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemy:
https://vimeo.com/147398931
RoyalXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Deptford, NJ
I just actually ordered the kit on monday.
paddlernate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR
I wouldn't even bother taking it out of the box- send it back. What you see in the video happens EVERY time I generate any wheel spin. Sand, snow, mud, whatever.
The reason I asked about your caster angle is because we have ONE guy in the NW Chapter on radius arms (old IRO) that doesn't get this hop, and several others who do get it. That one guy is running like -1 degree of caster, so his pinion is pretty much perfectly aligned with his dshaft. I've been adjusting my caster back incrementally and have not seen any improvements. I'm now at about 4 degrees on the latest adjustment and haven't taken it out yet, but I will report back with the results. I expect more of the same. If I were you, I'd start at 2 degrees and see what happens, if you decide you even want to mess with this $hit.
