• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

auburn ECTED updated design???

Came back to read this and see how the install went....didnt dee that.
Did it get installed and how is it??

FINALLY got mine done at the end of last week and lo and behold...it dont work!!! the LS is weaker than a factory trash loc. Giving it 12v does nuttin' ....Gotta call Auburn today and see what they say, but I think I got a bum unit.

Remember I have one in my TJ to compair it to. With both rear wheels off the ground, Its very hard to get one wheel to turn with out the other. In the MJ its a breeze. Just put your foot against the tire and turn the other one.

I am conserned about the costs to install this. Any one know how that works? I mean I spent nearly 4400 to have it installed. Now its likely neds to be removed and returned to get ixed/replaced then RE-installed for ANOTHER $400 bucks. Who pays for the second install?? it certainly shouldnt be me. I didnt doo anything wrong, my mech didnt either. If it turns out that it is a faulty unit, I wonder how this part will pan out....

I will post up as things happen....

CW
 
DUPLICATE to my post from other ECTED THREAD....

OK, I spoke with Auburn today. The tech gave me two tests to do.

First was to check OHM's of resistance at the coil. (The two wires protruding from the diff.)Should be between 3.2 and 3.8 OHM's. Mine was 1to1 or 100% continiuty!!! There is NO resistance. I guess my coil is shorted out, huh??

The second test passed. It was to ck 12V under a load and it has almost 13V all the time the switch is on.

I'll contact them again Wed and get a new coil sent out to Bill overnight. This can be changed WITHOUT having to resetup the gears. BUT will require the bearing to be pulled off and then re-pressed on for re-instilation. But thats a LONG SHOT cheaper then a complete re-gear setup!!!

CW
 
sorry about not getting back sooner. after the final install and checking everything over, we did some test runs on the snow covered and plowed up lot next to my shop, and it did great. with the rear locked in 2wd, it would just push the jeep right through the turn. in 4wd with the rear locked, it would chirp and push very nicely.

about the whole discussion about it being "fully locked" or not, this is what i've found from watching outside the vehicle and also driving it. it "visually" appears to become more aggressive as more torque is applied to it. now that may or may not be wrong based on the circumstances, but that's what it looked and felt like while trying it out.

we did already get one real world test in during a snow run a few weeks back. my wife did everything in 4wd with the rear unlocked, until she came to a decent sized log obstacle that she couldn't get over. with light throttle and very gentle bumping it would not go over. then she locked the rear, and suddenly the obstacle was no more. i think that's about as good as it gets. my wife specially likes it, because she likes the LSD/LOCKER option. since she's now driven the jeep with open/lsd/locked, she prefers the lsd for street driving, and is loving the locker offroad. as far as she is concerned, she DOES NOT want an open diff on the road anymore, but also DOES NOT want an automatic locker on the road after having driven with the rear locked to see what it feels like.
 
LSDs work off the concept of "more torque=more aggresive". It is because the spider and side gears are tapered and the more torque applied the more the side gears push outward putting more pressure on the clutches or cones.

Glad your wife is happy, that is never a bad thing.
 
i was actually meant that when it's engaged, it looks like it becomes more aggressive as torque is applied. but as i said, that's just what it looks and feels like. i still haven't figured out 100% how this thing is supposed to work. to many moving parts for my taste. LOL

i like things simple. like my welded rear axle. LOL
 
I have a friend who just got one of these for his full size 79 Bronco's front D44. He has a built 429 in it with 35's and a Detroit in the 9". I'll make sure to post info on how it holds up.

Later,
Joe
 
Ok, so if I read the brochure correctly, you could technically wire in a potentiometer to controll this thing. The higher you turn it up the tighter the clutches get. If you want an open axle, turn it all the way down to zero. If you want a road friendly LS then turn it up a little. If you want to get over that tough obstacle, turn it all the way up. Is this a correct assumption? It seems that you could have the best of many worlds, except that it is never 100% mechanically locked.

I'm starting to do my homework for selectables for the wife's XJ. I was all set to get an Eaton E-locker but starting to hear more about the ECTED. I think I still like the Eaton since it does get 100% mechanicaly locked.
 
turning it down to zero won't give you a open diff. when the ECTED is turned of, it is a limited slip.

my wife is loving it so far, and has made obstacles that she hasn't been able to do at all before. as far as she is concerned, she doesn't want anything else. LOL
 
Back
Top