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Wheelbase adjustment issue

I’m using a plumb bob which is where the string comes in, going from center of the wheel center cap to the ground making a mark, same on the front with wheels straight forward and then measuring between marks. I’m on a level floor in my garage with a clean slab.
The question now is what are going to do? How much lift do you have?
The question now is what are going to do? How much lift do you have?
Too late today to get under there and measure as recommended in the last posts, I’ll do that tomorrow. I’m on 3.5” of lift so this shouldn’t be that difficult, it’s either I’m way overthinking it or something isn’t right. My next steps is to put it back to the way it was and see if things bind like I was expecting them to. My new CavFab trackbar and frame side bracket along with my new 1 ton under the knuckle stinky fav steering look like they are going to bind up when the driver is fully stuffed and the passenger is fully drooped with the wheel straight, im assuming worse when turned if I can even turn…

The CavFab bracket brings the frame side mount of the track bar 2” forward from stock location causing it to slightly overlap the now bulkier tie rod. The beefy trackbar is also not helping, I had the Rubicon Express RE1600 track bar before which bolted up to the stock mount but it was single sheer and I wanted more strength there.
I measured from the rear axle to the front axle on non-moving parts and right now they are the same length on both passenger and driver. How critical is it that I have the 101.4" wheel base? Or is it more important to have the wheelbase the same on both sides? My passenger wheel is definitely slightly farther forward (about 0.5") in the wheel well than driver. I will roll it out next week to see how it all goes and take it into a shop to have it properly aligned although I don't think they mess with the wheelbase.
My angles rn

Wheelbase should be the least concern other than rubbing/hitting things at full compression/extension. The axles being square to each other is critical and the alignment shop will get you started on any needed adjustments. Be aware of your minimum thread adjustment of a 1/2 turn and the length/angle that equates too. Those angle measurements are OK to get you to the alignment shop but you need more accurate methods for anything you do permanately.