at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
I'm gonna try redrilling the UCA's tonight, inch back should be ok and give me at least a few degrees of caster.
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
at05gt Introduction
- Thread starter at05gt
- Start date
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
You probably dont want to hear this now but thats rough country for you. Lowest bidder often bites you.
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
Funny thing is, I hear that a lot, but take a look at the parts themselves and they are solid and beefy as hell. Its just a tiny design quirk on the UCA mount that bothers me, also they have awesome customer service.
- Location
- sacramento
Amost all of us have run rough country in the beginning stages or when trying to cheap out of something. Its all dogshit garbage parts. Bracketry is hard to cheap out on so maybe ypur drops will be ok for a while .
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
That's what I meant, its pretty hard to screw up a piece of metal. If I buy any other components that are super critical to the operation of the Jeep, I will most likely go with a different brand then Rough Country, and spend a bit more money. As it sits right now the only issue I see is the UCA problem that I've already described and I think I have a possible solution for it. I need to take one out and inspect the metal at the axle end, if I can redrill it farther back and not weaken it, then issue alleviated for now until I can afford real arms, or find a deal on some used ones.
- Location
- sacramento
their joints are all junk, bushings are usually junk too, and overall quality is usually sub par, but some of their parts can get you around for a while.
dont use their control arm if possible, their flex joints are total crap garbage.
dont use their control arm if possible, their flex joints are total crap garbage.
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
I'll probably be looking into IRO or something similar when I do arms, I can drive it as is without issue so I may just leave it for now until I can afford the proper arms.
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
I looked at the UCAs and there's no way to drill it farther back on the axle side unless I cut the top of the channel off. Also my axle side bushings are completely shot.
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
So Registration is due next month (already paid the fees) and they are requiring a smog. Just noticed I've got a wonderful crack between my collector pipes on the exhaust manifold, which explains why it runs so rich and has really shitty gas mileage. I know it can be welded back together, I however lack the skills and equipment to do so. Wondering if anybody would like to help me out some weekend? Not sure how much the time would be worth but you will be paid for your work.
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
If you can get it off and bring it up to EDH I can probably find a lilltle time to weld it up. Someone might have an old one laying around though. I would hate to fix it just to have it crack around the welds later on.
Not sure how well the metal holds up after a weld.
Not sure how well the metal holds up after a weld.
- Location
- sacramento
honestly if it truly is just one small crack, It will still smog. Most of us are passing smog with cracked manifolds and we dont even know it. It probably partially to fully seals when the engine is hot.
if you want to find all your leaks, hook up a shop vac to the tail pipe and turn it on push no pull, then run your hand along the entire exhaust from muffler to the block.
I would personally do a full tune up and oil change, ,make sure its not running hot, and take it in, make sure its a free- retest place, and be ready to interpret the results if it doesn't pass.
I think you should take josh up and pull the manifold and let him weld it up if its a massive leak.
Ive smogged XJs with massive leaks before, so a small crack should be fine.
if you want to find all your leaks, hook up a shop vac to the tail pipe and turn it on push no pull, then run your hand along the entire exhaust from muffler to the block.
I would personally do a full tune up and oil change, ,make sure its not running hot, and take it in, make sure its a free- retest place, and be ready to interpret the results if it doesn't pass.
I think you should take josh up and pull the manifold and let him weld it up if its a massive leak.
Ive smogged XJs with massive leaks before, so a small crack should be fine.
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
I'll get a picture of it later today, it's on the outside where the 2 main pipes connect, and it looks like it split at the factory weld.
The pipe for the front 3 cylinders looks like its trying to separate from the 2-1 collector.
The pipe for the front 3 cylinders looks like its trying to separate from the 2-1 collector.
Last edited:
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
That's a good sized crack. I would replace it if I were you. But maybe that's just me
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
Ya it comes down to cost vs. time, I have to smog by May 8th or get an extension. Not sure it will pass smog with that big of a crack. I could try to seal it with an Oxy torch and a mild steel filler, I've done it on mufflers and exhaust pipes before. I'm gonna have to take it off the jeep and look at it.
Last edited:
clydefrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
Pay the registration, you will have a couple of months leeway to get the smog done (they wont send you the sticker until the smog is done).
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
I already paid the fee's, I mentioned that in the first post. 
clydefrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
Haha, guess I should read it next time........I already paid the fee's, I mentioned that in the first post.
I dug around to see if I still had my old collector, couldn't find it, I'm pretty sure i gave it away already.
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
Got the 32's installed last night, I'm gonna need to get a new pair to match the rears but it shouldn't hurt anything as long as I don't use 4wd.
It's starting to look like a Jeep now.
Driving it this morning its a lot more rough on the road now, I'm assuming that's due to tire size and tread design vs the old tires which where road tires. Also noticing an issue where the Jeep wants to follow the road patterns a lot more now. It doesn't feel like bump steer, looked it up and it might be tramlining, what psi do you guys run on the road with larger tires, 31's 33's?
It's starting to look like a Jeep now.
Driving it this morning its a lot more rough on the road now, I'm assuming that's due to tire size and tread design vs the old tires which where road tires. Also noticing an issue where the Jeep wants to follow the road patterns a lot more now. It doesn't feel like bump steer, looked it up and it might be tramlining, what psi do you guys run on the road with larger tires, 31's 33's?
Last edited:
at05gt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, Ca
Had to hit the front bottom edge of the front fender flares with the sawzall, tires tried to eat them when backing out of my driveway.
AlphaQup
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Concord CA
24psi is about perfect on my 35's. You could rub chalk on the tread and take it around the block to see if the whole tread is making contact. The tires need to break in as well
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
