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35's on stock axles

dellstopjeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
KUNA, ID
just curious if anyone has done this without problems?
i am running 33's without any issues on my stock dana 30 and 35 axles in my xj without ever having a problem. i have 4.56 gears as well. i have seen people run 35's on xjs before with stock axles. i am pretty careful with my xj and a decent driver. I have enough room to clear 35's and im getting the urge to do it. is there some spare parts i should look for for those in case situations?
thanks for the advice.
 
do the 35's if you want them, I upgraded my rear 8.25 29 spline shafts to yukon shafts the front I will do later. If you have the 35 rear axle 35's is pushin it, but do em if you want them.... I made the mistake of getting 33's when I wanted 35's and lost some money when I switched..
 
Los11 said:
do the 35's if you want them, I upgraded my rear 8.25 29 spline shafts to yukon shafts the front I will do later. If you have the 35 rear axle 35's is pushin it, but do em if you want them.... I made the mistake of getting 33's when I wanted 35's and lost some money when I switched..
did you upgrade the 8.25 shafts out of neccessity w/ the 35's or just as a precaution?
 
im running 36s on stock axles and havn't had any problems yet...
 
This is purely an opion question. I run 35's on a 30/8.25. I carry at least one spare for each corner. With that said, I did go ridding today, and broke the u joint in the back of the rear drive shaft(Not just the axles that can be broken). I Know most people say if you wheel stock axles then you must not be ridding anything hard, but I am fairly hard on my pos.I have a few suggestions if you want to try this.
1. While ridding, remember what you have.(They are not dana 60s)
2. If momentum is nessasary, try to keep front wheels as straight as possable
3.Try to run the lightest weight tire/wheel combo you can.
4. Alloy shafts will help cut down breakage some.

Just my opinon, but if you don't have money for bigger axles use what you have.I think that you will have problems with the 35 if you abuse it at all.That would be the first upgrade I would do(AXLE SWAP!).I am sure every one here will have something to add / correct about this.
 
yesterday i saw a brand spanking new TJ Rubicon snap his 44 shaft (drivers side rear) when trying to crawl a ledge. he was a real jerk, making coments on others rig all day - "so your still running the stock steering?" "i put 10,000 into my rig after i bought it"

anyway - he snaped a 44 shaft with 36" tires... and then his HD steering didnt help him one bit

he had a 3 hour drive home to figure out too

that a$$hole...
 
The rev dana 30 usually holds up pretty good with 35's if you are easy on it and get the later ones with then non-disco and 297 u-joints. The 29 spline 8.25 or dana 44 are pretty stout and can work with 35's pretty good, especially the xj dana 44. I still just bought a pair of spare shafts for the dana 44 that I plan to bring with me as well as a full pair of front dana 30 shafts. I have done the Rubicon and Fordyce twice this summer with no breakage at all with an arb in the front and a full detroit in the rear. Although I lost a few bolts in the arb that holds the unit together due to the flex of the dana 30, everything has held up nicely with 35" MTRS. I now have 35" Pro Comp X-Terrains, so I'll see if those axles hold up as well with those as the mtrs. With lockers and lower gearing you don't need to relay as much on momentum and beating on your jeep. If you don't get traction when locked up, you try another line rather than slamming the pedal down. Things seem to last more that way, also when the front is bound up, you can unlock the arb and straigten up as to not pop a u-joint. Lockers and gears do alot to getting traction and not forcing you to gas it where you all of a sudden get the traction and that shock is unleashed on the drivetrain.
Troy
 
can you do it? sure.. everyone does, and many never break.. many never leave the mall either... i wouldnt do it.. and i would not lock it.. which is counter productive to the whole idea.. if you must use those axles upgrade the shafts to some chromoly stuff.. for about the same$$ (or a lil more) as that upgrade you could score a D44 and lock it and not be asking too much of your drivetrain. a few weeks ago i spent 4 hrs in the dirt unde r a YJ running 31s on his D35 with a lockright... fishing chunks out of his axle and trying to get that Fing C-clip out and that last chunk of spline..

get used to this sight..

standard
 
sidriptide said:
can you do it? sure.. everyone does, and many never break.. many never leave the mall either... i wouldnt do it.. and i would not lock it.. which is counter productive to the whole idea.. if you must use those axles upgrade the shafts to some chromoly stuff.. for about the same$$ (or a lil more) as that upgrade you could score a D44 and lock it and not be asking too much of your drivetrain. a few weeks ago i spent 4 hrs in the dirt unde r a YJ running 31s on his D35 with a lockright... fishing chunks out of his axle and trying to get that Fing C-clip out and that last chunk of spline..

get used to this sight..

standard

Yeah, those c-clip axles suck when they spit your tire back out at you. I never had this happen to me when I wheeled with a dana 35 in my 91' yj with 33" pro comps. I bought a xj dana 44 with a detroit to give me a little more piece of mind back there and then scored some spare shafts as well all around. If you have disc brakes like on the ford 8.8, your tire should be retained I heard and not thrown back at you when you break a shaft.
 
IMHO, the cheapest most effective and "fairly" reliable way to run 35's is to:

1) Get an XJ 44 or an 8.8. It aint that expensive. $400 AT THE MOST... could be done for under $200 if you're resourceful (unfortunatly you didnt do that BEFORE you got gears :doh: ... so tack on new gears to the price)

2) Swap 760x shafts/u-joints into your dana 30.

3) Make sure you adjust your steering stops to avoid u-joint binding

4) Run it... As long as your not a throttle jockey you should see minimal breakage.

-jm
 
thanks for the replies.... so where is a good place/price to upgrade my shafts and u-joints. I broke a u-joint when i put on my original lift and it was a cheap stock replacement but for the better ones whats the price range...same question goes for shafts as well. i may give 35's a shot after i upgrade a bit. I want to run this ana 35 since i dropped my whole savings account on damn gears.

I dont drive the trails real hard and i know my limits so i think that will help if i go bigger. I dont want to see myself under the rig on the trail conteplating whether or not i should call a tow truck. ON the street i drive a little harder but nothing to give me problems, i know this jeep isnt speed racer and i have accepted that.
 
pizza cutters are great for mud, and some rocks, a few of my friends run them and like them alot. there is a smaller contact patch with the road, so that might come into play and save a small amount of gas mileage.
BUT the torque of teh tire on the axle shafts is caused by the radius of the tire not the width. a locker would kill you

upgrading can save money, from buying replacement parts at the parts dealer right by the trail, from being towed home, form having to upgrade later...
check out this link (i know its for a YJ, but he did an SOA lift at the same time, so all the stuff is the same)
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html

BTW- Ben at jedi.com runs Pizza cutters and likes them
 
dellstopjeep said:
should i consdier maybe a more narrow 35 for less stress on the axles, like a 35 x 10.50?

part of the issue of larger tires is unsprung weight.. a 35" easily weighs 2X as a stock wheel.. a narrower tire may be a lil lighter, but chose the width for what you will use it mostly for.. dont go pizza cutter just as a bandaid
 
Like I was saying in the earlier post. Try some lighter weight wheels/tires to make the axles last. What I mean is some 35x12.50 mts with some aluminum wheels. Just a guess though.
 
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