High temp woes

[Anak]

Without seeing your metallic particles it is hard to say anything, but I can say that from my own experience with Cold Case radiators they leave a lot of aluminum chips in the radiators. Whatever cutting they are doing in the process of manufacturing seems to leave chips behind. I would hope they would be trying to clean those out, and maybe they do some cleaning out, but it is far from thorough.

 

[Vitzaa]

Didn't get any aluminum shavings... But I get what you're saying.

The metallic particles literally look like metallic dust clumped together. They're extremely fine, smaller than a grain of sand.

Either way, it's all good. I'm just glad to be running normal temps again and am looking forward to splitting open this filter to see what it's picked up.

 

[ShoeterMcgav]

How did you reverse flush the radiator (i know you mentioned a kit, but curious about the process)? Or hook up air for that matter? Into a special radiator cap? Or did you remove a hose? Curious how you flushed it "both" ways.

I'm less worried about the actual radiator and more concerned with whats past the water pump. Im getting ready to swap both, so I want to get all the gunk out of the block and heater core before swapping the new components in.

 

[Vitzaa]

How did you reverse flush the radiator (i know you mentioned a kit, but curious about the process)? Or hook up air for that matter? Into a special radiator cap? Or did you remove a hose? Curious how you flushed it "both" ways.

I'm less worried about the actual radiator and more concerned with whats past the water pump. Im getting ready to swap both, so I want to get all the gunk out of the block and heater core before swapping the new components in.

If you have junk, I highly recommend an acid treatment. I'm going to be doing this myself in the next week to get the remainder of junk out. I'm running 200-210 on street and up to 220 on highway w load so I'm guessing some junk is still clogging things up...
Did some research and am gonna go with a citric acid flush. Remove thermostat, reattach thermostat housing and mix 2.5lbs of acid with water. Pour in and top off w water. Start and purge air, shut down, Let the fizzling stop, top up with water, put cap on and get up to temp... Let sit a couple hours, drain and flush w water a bunch of times. Finally flushing w distilled a couple times and a quality HOAT coolant (g05).

As far as back flushing, here's the gun

Mityvac MV4570 Automotive Radiator/Cooling System 85-150 PSI Combo Air and Water Flusher with Multi-Size Nozzle, Zinc Die-Cast, Ergonomic Design, Field Serviceable https://a.co/d/1EEgohX

Basically, remove radiator, keep cap on and drain connected, place gun into the radiator outlet sealed tight to it with a rag between gun and metal... Turn water on and hit the air trigger a couple times. Sends shit flying.
Same w heater core, just be careful w pressure.

The citric acid should dissolve all the calcium/rust safely without damaging anything internally. It does meet to be heated though to work. Think of it as an internal hot dipping for the block.

I'd also recommend installing an inline coolant filter coming out of (or going into) the heater core. Make sure to do a bypass on the plumbing as the filters aren't able to support high volume.

I can attach a pic of my setup if you need one.

 

[Bent]

195 stant superstat first.

Stant has been sold to Motorrad. The superstat is not a Super thermostat any more. They are stamped Motorrad, and the brass breather pin is no longer part of the unit. That is what I noticed with just a visual inspection.

I sent it back and ordered the Gates, surprise!

Gates are also Motorrad, and the same as the M.R. version of the Superstat. Really bummed me out. Stant superstats were my go-to for years.

Agree with the standard water pump. A lower temperature thermostat is not going to solve anything. Maybe reduce gas mileage. A 195 that works properly is what you want to put in. Test it before you install.

ETA: you don't need a special gun to flush in either direction. A regular hose nozzle wrapped with a rag will seal up just fine

 

[Vitzaa]

Stant has been sold to Motorrad. The superstat is not a Super thermostat any more. They are stamped Motorrad, and the brass breather pin is no longer part of the unit. That is what I noticed with just a visual inspection.

I sent it back and ordered the Gates, surprise!

Gates are also Motorrad, and the same as the M.R. version of the Superstat. Really bummed me out. Stant super stats were my go-to for years.

Agree with the standard water pump. A lower temperature thermostat is not going to solve anything. Maybe reduce gas mileage. A 195 that works properly is what you want to put in. Test it before you install.

ETA: you don't need a special attachment to flush the system and need the direction. A garden hose with, or without a standard high flow hose nozzle wrapped with a rag will seal just fine.

Tried the garden hose sealed and it's not even close to the pressure/agitation that the gun produced. MASSIVE difference!

 

[Bent]

Tried the garden hose sealed and it's not even close to the pressure/agitation that the gun produced. MASSIVE difference!

Hmmm...

 

[ShoeterMcgav]

Ah. I'm not going to work that hard to clean the radiator I'm replacing it.. more concerned with the heater core and engine.

Acid treatment seems excessive for my junk.. I have hot air in the winter and never overheated

 

[Vitzaa]

Ah. I'm not going to work that hard to clean the radiator I'm replacing it.. more concerned with the heater core and engine.

Acid treatment seems excessive for my junk.. I have hot air in the winter and never overheated

All that junk swimming around the engine and clogging up the heater core will dislodge and clog up the new radiator... At least that's what's happening with me. I must have removed that radiator at least 5-6 times at this point.... The acid treatment really isn't bad and will save you the work again later