3 link upper link on passenger side or drivers side?

tanman2003

NAXJA Forum User
Location
georgia
what is the main benifit of running the UCA on the drivers side vs the passenger side? this will be a vehicle driven offroad only, so streetability is not much of a concern, but changes in pinion angle are.
 
tanman2003 said:
what is the main benifit of running the UCA on the drivers side vs the passenger side? this will be a vehicle driven offroad only, so streetability is not much of a concern, but changes in pinion angle are.

Here is a link to a post where that same question came up. It may answer your question ... or it may just create more. :dunno:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=485468&postcount=13

Les
 
tanman2003 said:
what is the main benifit of running the UCA on the drivers side vs the passenger side? this will be a vehicle driven offroad only, so streetability is not much of a concern, but changes in pinion angle are.

The starter is in the way on the passenger side, no place to put an upper arm in there and get acceptable suspension geometry.

Either side impacts pinion angle the same.
 
tanman2003 said:
im a toyota guy.


The good news is that you can be cured!
 
so crash im not sure if you were selling your setup as a kit, but if you arent, could you tell me you link locations as if you were plugging them in the 3 link calculator?
 
I'm running a passenger drop D60 with this type of link setup, and because of the aforementioned reasons the upper link is on the side opposite the diff.

I should know in a month whether this was successful or not.

The diff itself is trussed, the tubes are welded, there's a 2x4 piece of tube across the top of the axle tube welded to the truss and all the way to the upper mount, and then it's connected to the lower arm and coil spring perch on the drivers side. Don't know what else there really is to do, but I am trying to ensure that the axle tubes aren't doing all the work in transfering the torque to the upper arm.
 
I did a 4 link with track bar on the front of my xj about 5 years ago ( still there) with an LT1. So yes you can fit it all in there as all 4 link's go back to the new crossmember. It just takes time and patience to get it perfect.
 
Mine's on the passenger side, but the new rig I'm doing it will be on the drivers side. As far as handling goes, it doesn't matter what side it's on. My rig handles well in all situations with the arm on the passenger side, and I expect the new rig to handle well with the arm on the drivers side.
 
rokspydr said:
I did a 4 link with track bar on the front of my xj about 5 years ago ( still there) with an LT1. So yes you can fit it all in there as all 4 link's go back to the new crossmember. It just takes time and patience to get it perfect.


I'd like to see a pic of the crossmember and the arm mounts, if you have it.
 
I'd like to second that request for a picture. I'm having difficulty finding where to put the frame end UCA's because of my Chevy exhaust.
 
P8040005.jpg
[/IMG]
P8040002.jpg
[/IMG]
 
rokspydr said:
I did a 4 link with track bar on the front of my xj about 5 years ago ( still there) with an LT1. So yes you can fit it all in there as all 4 link's go back to the new crossmember. It just takes time and patience to get it perfect.


Oh, I see, I thought we were talking about a high clearance crossmember.

Geometry looks good though........
 
thank's, I wanted to but some sacrifices had to be made in the engine swap in the sake of clearance.
 
I'm running claytons radius arm set-up and am using only a single upper link on the passenger side. I have not had any clearance issues or adverse handling with this set-up.
 
Just got mine installed with all the links mocked up:

front1.JPG


front4.JPG


front6.JPG


Yes it's all just tacked in place right now...solid enough to play around with adjusting pinion angle and alignment though. That was fun. :) I'll have some more bracing on the other side of the axle upper mount and probably some 'spine' type thing to give some more circumferencial weld on the axle tube.

I'm set up for ~4" uptravel, and with the arc of the panhard I have enough clearance for the upper link to move around just fine. The lowers need about .5" more where the old LCA mounts used to be. No huge deal, just some more torching, reshaping, and reinforcing.

(yes, the trans mount area will probably be up for redesign when I drop the crossmember to put the guts back in the NV4500)
 
I don't know if anyone knows Jim Brown, he is a member here, and on www.socalxj.com. He did a Triangulated 3-link, he bent his upper triangulated link around the oil pan, and this worked out perfect. I like it so much, I am doing a triangulated 4-link in a similar way. He built new upper mounts near the stock location, and trussed the housing. He would know more about what he did. I hate the track bar, so this is an option to avoid that POS.
 
Israel said:
Are you worried about knocking off the grease fittings on those joints?

Yep. I don't plan on leaving it like that. They'll fit the other way just fine...I just stuffed the joint in there like that because that's how I picked it up off the floor.
 
Back
Top