3 link separation at the frame side

[Ronbo]

I think it will be about 4" of separation. anyone wish they had more than that? or wish they had made their mount adjustable?

I went with the Poly Performance/Synergy long arm brackets, which to my calibrated eye-ball are around 4" of separation. I left the rest of the front suspension alone which was basically the RE 5.5" Extreme Duty with short arms and drop brackets.
The long arm brackets were bolted on according to their directions and welded to the chassis and eventually tied to a cage via plates on the inside floor. I don't worry about their strength, especially after it's all tied together. They are far cleaner than anything I can cobble together in my garage.
As far as driving characteristics on the street, it's not far from where it was before, in my opinion. I first drove without the anti swaybar and noticed a slight difference in 'instant center' if I am understanding that term right - I'm no expert. Nothing dangerous or unpredictable though.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

which bracket? http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Axle-Chassis-Brackets-p-1-c-862.html

I was for sure going to use these for my lowers http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/CHLB.html

I usually buy everything from ruffstuff, I live down the street from them. so it's just easier


the driving characteristic I was worried about was mainly just dive. I'm not going to run it through a calculator or anything I just want to get my upper angle in the ball park and make sure the mount is adjustable.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

On the front you're concerned with anti-dive instead of anti-squat, under breaking rather than under power. Screw the 3 link calulator, it's basically useless, and even if it was a little useful very few would understand it enough to make a difference. Make the arms as flat as possible, especially the upper arm, period. If the lowers are mounted even with the axle tube, and the upper arm is close to flat at ride height, it will work and handle fine. No big secrets, nothing hard to figure out.

it all sounds somewhat simple. I'm just not really seeing what I'm looking for in a strong and well plated upper link mount. I guess I'm not giving the uniframe as much credit as is due? I'm not seeing any crazy bracing going on in the 3 link TOTM on pirate. I guess I'll just slap mine together and post up a pic!

thanks guys. If anyone has a pic or two of their setup or even just the plating they did please share!

 

[Destroyer]

This is the crossmember I built for my 3 link. It has somewhere between 3-4" of link separation. I also clocked the tcase up, massaged the floorboard, and used a chevy trans mount to get everything to fit with the flat belly.

 

[foxwar71]

Mines yet to break off, 8" at the axle and 6" at the frame for separation I remember.

 

[Ronbo]

which bracket?

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Jeep-XJ-Front-Long-Arm-Bracket-Kit-p-20680.html

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

Mines yet to break off, 8" at the axle and 6" at the frame for separation I remember.

here we go! that looks more like what I'm going for. I'm going to use this as a guide for mine

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Jeep-XJ-Front-Long-Arm-Bracket-Kit-p-20680.html

woah. those look awesome. no way I'm spending $300 though :/ that's half of what I spent on the whole suspension. plus I'm not sure they would fit over all the plating I've already got

 

[rockclimber]

it all sounds somewhat simple. I'm just not really seeing what I'm looking for in a strong and well plated upper link mount. I guess I'm not giving the uniframe as much credit as is due? I'm not seeing any crazy bracing going on in the 3 link TOTM on pirate. I guess I'll just slap mine together and post up a pic!

thanks guys. If anyone has a pic or two of their setup or even just the plating they did please share!

In theory, the upper link should not see much side-load. That is the job of the panhard.

Make it as a strong as you can.