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2JZGTE swap this summer...

yes child9 you are right, but my aim is not making a race car, the main thing why i am doing this, is that my original 5.2 engine was dead and getting that engine in my area is impossible. ) finding a JZ motor in my town is not big problem, so we started googling and found your thread.
will be no thread from me, because my english is so poor, i will just ask anything if it comes up, right here ok ?
only started this thing two days ago, monday, this are the first time fitting in photos, so dont have any solution for the motor mounts yet, but i really like this idea :
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the transmission is the toyota A340F , from a '96 4Runner, it bolts on straightly to JZ, only have to change the bellhousing. all the wiring is same as JZ's original A340E, only speed sensor different. also allows to have 2wd or 4wd connected manually when you need it. will only have to change the shafts, front and rear...


I'm not making a race car, I just wanted to add reliable power to carry the weight of the armor better, and I opted for the 2JZ instead of upgrading the 4.0L.

You can ask, and I will answer to the best of my knowledge. You should become a member of NAXJA. :)

Why do you need to change the drive shafts? If you're transmission bolts right into the Jeep transfer case, like mine does, then that will locate the engine front to back, and allow you to keep the drivetrain completely stock.

The wiring is gonna be FUN, let me tell you. I'm not gonna be much help there, either, because everything I have is for the 2J, not the 1J. In the end it's just signal flow. Once you know where everything goes and what everything is, you just have to make the physical connections. Same as anything else. Torque is produced by the engine and "flows" through the transmission, t case, driveshafts, diffs, and axles...right to the wheels. Electrical is the exact same, just a lot more paths and a lot more colors. :)

Usually when you have to change a bellhousing, you have to change a torque converter as well. Usually.

As to my second comment, I was just saying that I never met a Russian I didn't like. :) Good luck!
 
thank you, my friend.
i am not leaving my jeep tcase for two reasons. first is that it is a fulltime 4wd 249 tcase. and i want to have choice, running rwd or 4wd when i need it, changing modes right from the driver's seat. the 4runner tcase allows that, so will need to make three custom mounts, two for front of the engine and one for transmission, also will change the shafts, the axle end will be from jeep, the tcase end will be toyota, in the middle will be welded and balanced . the second reason is that my stock tcase is crap, the chain is slipping when i accelerate, making terrible sounds )) finding original jeep parts in my area is big problem )
i am also so dumb about wiring stuff, so am doing all mechanic work, and for electric i have a friend, who offered his help about it, will try to figure out together.
the torque converter did not need changing, it fitted perfectly by this moment.
how do i become a NAXJA member, not being American ? )))
going to the garage now, will try to keep you up to date with my progress -)
 
during yesterday fitments figured out first problem, dont have space for an AC compressor.. my steering gear is sitting right where the toyota compressor should be. but on your photos its ok, maybe thats the difference between XJ and ZJ .. or your engine sits further to the back of the car, cant understand...
 
Hmmm...I can take some pics of those specific areas if you want.

How much space do you have between the back of the head and the firewall? I have maybe 2 inches or less, with the engine raised as much as possible to get the driveline angles as close to equal as possible.

It seems like since you are going to have to locate the entire drivetrain front to back and side to side, then build mounts to hold it all in place, you should be able to get it deep enough to get around the steering gear box. Can you post pics?
 
Also, I'm sure NAXJA can take your payment through paypal or something. Moderator? Take over that part, please. :)

So I've got the next 2 nights off from my night job, and aside from studying for this semester's first calc III test and rebuilding at least 1 carb, if not 5 for some customers, I plan on getting the steering components and alignment fixed on the Jeep and working on the steering wheel setup. I've purchased another 96 steering wheel, and will remove and swap the centers of each so the LTZ steering wheel will fit properly to the Jeep steering shaft and clock spring.
 
Hmmm...I can take some pics of those specific areas if you want.

How much space do you have between the back of the head and the firewall? I have maybe 2 inches or less, with the engine raised as much as possible to get the driveline angles as close to equal as possible.

It seems like since you are going to have to locate the entire drivetrain front to back and side to side, then build mounts to hold it all in place, you should be able to get it deep enough to get around the steering gear box. Can you post pics?

i think i realized what the problem is.
this is because the XJ and the ZJ steering gear positions are different, yours is sitting closer to the front bumper, and your radiator is ABOVE it, while mine is closer to the back of the car, and the radiator is BEFORE it, right between the steering gear and the bumper.
while the motor is now sitting right how you described,

onRDNAa5.jpg


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today we finally positioned the engine the way it should be and made a custom transmission mount. by the end of the week i plan to get done with front mounts so that the engine will be in its place.
had to cut a huge hole inside, to make the tail of transmission as high as possible.

6E54PzkN.jpg
 
Just make sure you are keeping in mind that the higher you raise the tail of the transmission the more you level out the output shaft. Compare that angle with the angle the differential is going to be. You don't want that more than a degree or 3 different or you may incur excessive drivetrain vibrations and shudder. You may just need to rotate the rear axle a bit, and you can buy shims that do that. At this stage of the install the three most important things to be looking at (in my opinion) are that driveline angle, front axle clearance, and hood clearance. Find the best balance between them all. A well thought out plan is pretty important at this point.
 
Do it! I'm contemplating CADing and casting motor mounts for the 2J swap into an XJ, but that will require someone coming to me with a Jeep and paying me to build one for them. If that happens, I will make several improvements to my existing designs and make them available. Well... maybe. It's fun to think about kiting this, but I don't see the demand.
I think most people see it as a novelty.
 
Well, the '96 Tacoma shifter assembly came in today. I set it in the Jeep to get a feel for how this is going to work. I'm going to have to do some metal work to the lower shifter assembly and find some sort of small heim joint or something to connect the shift rods, but I'm confident it'll work out.



JeepShifter01.jpg
 
i was going to use the same shifter, but from a RHD version of a '96 4Runner. (the gear indication is on the right side) :
filecpd.php


please make photos when you do it, also from under the car =)
 
FINALLY opened my package from Romania. Thanks again, Adrian!

I'm going to take both of my clusters apart and integrate them into one, completely stock looking cluster that will have the electronic speedo, read MPH, show unleaded fuel, and have the black bezel. I may just remove the boost gauge and install it in my existing cluster actually. I'll make the decision once I crack these puppies open. I will eventually install the air/fuel wide band gauge where I have the current boost gauge. Looking forward to this. I love instrumentation. :)

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