• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

2000 cherokee cranks won't start

Just a "california" emissions package that had 4 02 sensors, those had precats and cat convertor also. And many are found outside of california.

Tayln beat me to it again. Maybe the info is right as we agree!!!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
yea that's it, this vehicle has cruise that I don't have, how much is involved with taking that someone told me I would have to tale the ecu
 
ECU should not be different. But if you can get your hands on an extra ecu cheap, I'd get it anyway. If you need one later, it couldbe expensive. You will need to swap the steering wheel panel with the switches. The connection to the brake light switch?
 
ECU should not be different. But if you can get your hands on an extra ecu cheap, I'd get it anyway. If you need one later, it couldbe expensive. You will need to swap the steering wheel panel with the switches. The connection to the brake light switch?

not only the steering wheel panels but also the clockspring
clockspring w. cruise has one more wire
on 2000 xj the cruise signal is broadcasted via the ccd bus, so he also needs to set the "cruise enable feature" in the ecu via DRB scan tool
 
I wondered about the clockspring. That is bizarre, but so possible that they had two different clocksprings. Why would they bother?? To save $0.25 on 30% of the vehicles. It would be easier to change out the steering column, but then the stupid electronic key wouldn't talk to the ECU.
 
Fired the New/used motor up today, looks like it's going to work, still have a lot of details to button up but it sounds good. I had changed the rear seal the bottom end has a pretty good coat of varnish. What's a good cleaning oil, I'd like to a couple changes through to see if I can clean it up a little.
 
Synthetic would clean the best, but expensive. For a couple of quick changes, I'd run something like Mobil 5000 5W-30 or even Walmart brand Syntec? 5W-30. Then change to something with ZDDP.
 
Thanks Winterbeater, I got it on the road today, runs pretty well, I must have had head gasket problems for quite a while because I can really feel the difference. I've got another question, the car handles like I've got 40" tires on it. It tracks fine but it feels like there is limited or reduced power steering. This was a problem before the head went but I wasn't driving it much and you know, one thing at time. I'm using bfg long trails 30"s it's a fairly heavy tire for it's size but I can't see that being the problem.
 
It certainly could be the power steering pump. Mine started making noise and leaking when it started going bad. Changed it for a rebuilt for about $65. A neighbor of mine had hers just stop working. (Very hard to turn.) I think the valve blocked up that lets fluid from the reservoir. She took it to a dealership and they got her for $900. If it is way hard to turn, the pump has probably gone bad. More fun and games. You might try flushing it and get lucky. After I changed my pump and the pressure hose, I disconnected the return line and ran it into a bucket while I added the new fluid. Wear old clothes for this!
 
Before the head gasket I had it in a body shop for a little work those tires require 50 lbs of pressure they were all set at 32, I pumped them all up and it made a big difference. the sidewalls on those tires must be pretty rigid because they didn't look low. It still doesn't feel completely right I have the pump from the donor vehicle I may try to switch it out. I had the control arms shocks and sway bar disconnected to get the pan out, so I'll probably take it in for a front end alignment also.
 
Where did you find that info?

x2.

You can determine the correct inflation pressure for any tire by marking across the tread with chalk, then drive the vehicle and check for chalk being rubbed off evenly across the tread.
 
If that 50 psi came off the tire that is the MAX inflation, not what you need to use. With a larger tire you usually go for lower pressures. For example for my 31" tires I need to run 27 PSI to keep the contact patch uniform and it gives me even wear.

I don't know your lift & shock specs but judging that you are running 30s you may still be on the stock suspension and using the factory shocks, which are probably toast by now.
 
Back
Top