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2000 cherokee cranks won't start

martness said:
When I had the head off I removed the lifters with a magnet I was able to move the top insert on the lifter up and down slightly maybe .050 in. is this acceptable? I was thinking that a hydraulic lifter without oil would have this much play but now I'm questioning everything.
Click to expand...

How hard was it to push the seat down?
 
So based on the Crain Cams link I posted in, you would want to back off the rocker arm nut until until you had a little free play, then slowly tighten it down until you have no free play. Then tighten down 0.020-0.060" more. (0.5-1.5mm.). Now take feeler gages under the nuts to see how much shim you need in there. Or shorten the rocker arms. Seems like you'd have to compensate for the rocker arm ratio. I think they are 1.6, so you would need to shorten them that much more.
 
I put in the shims that Talyn recommended, they are listed as .030 and .060 they miced at .020 and .040 with the .040 I get a small amount of wiggle (vertical) with the .020 I can just rotate the offloaded pushrods This is probably where i need to be. compression is good. still won't start, I dumped another 8+ quarts of gas smelling bailey's irish cream out of the crankcase again. Since the last oil change I have been very consertive with the gas when cranking most of the time I had the injectors unplugged and pulled. there was no leaking from the injectors by the way. My pressure at the rail was 50# checked for vac leaks, double checked intake install, for some reason I'm pumping gas like a fire hose into this thing. I'm wondering if most of my compression problems were from dry cylinder walls. fuel pressure regulator? Hey thanks again for all the help everyones provided so far.
 
No this is all gas much smoother and more consistent i had the coolant when I drained it before the headgasket. but the smell is special, I'm thinking a crankcase full of this and a spark and my jeep problems are over.
 
Baileys sounds like coolant. I think you have some major problems.

50 psi is right where it should be.

You don't check preload by how much wiggle you have. http://www.compcams.com/Technical/FAQ/FAQLifters2.asp right side, near end of page under "Q. How do I adjust my hydraulic lifters (non-adjustable valvetrain)?", Continued on page 3.
 
Like I said before (sorry if it wasn't clear), no wiggle. 0.020 to 0.050" preload in the lifter. Talyn's article is a good way to measure it. If you have any "wiggle" in it at all, the valves won't open far enough and it will clatter like hell. (if you get it to run)

Gas can only get into a motor through the injectors, unless it is the older model with the vacuum controlled pressure regulator. Those can leak into the intake manifold. What if you adjust the valves better, unplug the fuel pump, and try starting with spray start?
 
I got .020 on the preload with the .020 shim installed. right now i'm changing the fuel filter/pressure regulator not that I think it will help but at 115 I'm probably due. From there the head comes back off and I'll see if anything went wrong. We were real careful putting it on but thats a heavy peice and possibly the gasket got cut, I dout it very much. Then I'm taling it to another machine shop for a pressure test and a once over. I'm contemplating going after the rings and crank bearings i would rather not pull the motor I'm cramped for space, but I would like to have the deck gone over for flatness so who knows. Thanks again for all the help I'll keep you posted.
 
I can borrow one I'm going to pull the head first anyway to get a look at it, I'm hoping I damaged the gasket putting it on. That's the best scenario. So if I end up pulling it it will be without head or manifolds.
 
Sorry I see what your saying. I pulled the head, gasket looked good, I think I'll be looking for a short block. Know anywhere I can find one, I'm thinking that would be cheaper in the long run than rebuilding what I have or rebuilding a salvage.
 
martness, I just changed my complete engine im my 2000 xj. I had the infamous cracked head. I was going to change just the head but instead I changed the whole motor. 637xx miles head cracks overheats. I bought the jeep this way.
. You already are spending so much. I got my complete engine for 650 bucks, 69xxx from a rollover at the junk yard. you have to hunt for them but this may be easier for you. with all the problems your having might be better to rip it out and drop in the knew one.
The old engine is still around at the garage we did the work. I told him to do whatever with it for the garage use.... but i might be able to get it. massachusetts is a long ways from ohio... PM me if your interested. figures its worth the offer....
 
Thank You, I almost went that route, now I wish I had, I'm going to look around local first but I'll let you know. I'm thinking I need an 00 or 01 is that true, how about if I just find a bottom end. what years could I look for
 
It's better to get the whole motor. Your head is kind of messed up anyway. You still want to screw with the shims? Check craigslist for someone parting our an XJ. I'd look for a 98 or 97. Pre-0331.
 
A 2000-2001 Cherokee needs a 2000-2001 block. Changes in accessory mounting and mostly engine mounting bosses necessitates that block. So, he can't use an earlier block. He can't even use a block from say a WJ.
 
Before I went down this path I priced some local used motors the best I could find at the time was $900 for a motor with 60k, I thought I would be right back in the head problems before too long.
 
Last Jan I had to replace my waterpump, other than brakes and maint. that's the first part I've had to put on this jeep. I bought it in late 02 with about 30 on it. So I can't complain, but once she started she went all the way. I do like the 00 and 01 styling. But I hate that coil pack. Thanks again for the help I'll keep you posted
 
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