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2 Weeks later....

You've already singled out a few items...

1. Get rid of the rear sway bar.

2. DPG suggested the shocks (i don't think that's it either but it's worth checking if they say so).

3. Flex it up, crawl under and look for anything that binds.

4. Throw about 300 lbs in the back and drive it for a week.

5. Have fun.

HTH
 
Well, if you haven't already, ditch that rear swaybar. The leafs will take a little while to break in though, especially if you're running small tires (big tires will put more force on the springs offroad).

Also, did the shop install the lift too? A common problem I see is folks over tightening the leaf spring and shackle bolts. They only need to be about 65 ft-lbs, and only torqued once weight is sitting on them.

The front should be flexxing just fine once you disconnect the swaybar.

Do you have any pics you could post?
 
get rid of the rear sway bar. i did and noticed very little differenc (if you don't like it put it back in and deal with less flex) i did mine on the ground no jack or anythign it was a bitch to get it wiggled out of the way but it came out.

the shock absorbers only do what they say in their name absorb shock they won't limit flex unless they are too short or too long while your under there undo the lower shock bolt on either side and go flex it on that snow bank. once your on that bank try to place the shocks back on the pearches if they fit on fine then there is no prob with the length but if they won't compress or expand enough u have your prob.
 
OK, everyone is saying it, but I will repeat.

THE REAR SWAY BAR IS HOLDING YOUR REAREND CONSTANT! Ditch it.

I have the RE3.5 with full packs, and running 32 GY MTR's. I took rear sway bar off, I did not notice ANY difference, even with roof rack and tire and hi-lift on top, it feels "normal".

It did take a little while to flex great, but know they do really great. I think RE are BETTER than rustys, but like everyone else, that is an opinion.

Get a few hundred pounds, find a small 2' ditch and swerve back and forth in it, making one rear side flex, then the other, over and over. Do this with the front CONNECTED to force more on the rear.

I think once you ditch the rear, you may not even mess with weight etc.

Jason
P.S. After you drive without the rear sway bar, feel free to go back and give all of us some green points on our bars!
 
Get some discos in the front and ditch the rear. the rear sway bar is what is limiting your flex. You will not notice a difference in the ride if you take off the rear and it will flex much better.
 
Alright...making progress, (i do have JKS quicker disco's upfront) so anyways, earlier today i disconnected my rear shocks and tried to flex...still couldnt tuck the tire into my wheel well. Reconnected shocks as it was somewhat flexed w/ no problem so its not the shocks. Didnt have time to disco the rear tonight but i'm deffinatly doing it tomorrow....hit the trials about an hour ago w/ the front disco'ed and it tucked and flexed GREAT. Very happy w/ the front. Actually had the 31x10.50 rubbing the un-trimmed fender flares. (think its worth cutting a little bit?) Anyways, as for the rear the shocks are deff. not binding...havnt checked the d/s lenght yet though, how would i find out if thats binding?? As for pics...i will have sunday off from work so i will flex it out and get some pics...in a nut shell all you will see is my passenger side rear tire about 3 inches out of the stock position and my drivers side rear just NOT tucking into the wheel well, there is about a constant 2" gap in between the top of the tire and the fender flare...i'm assuming from the + flex i had upfront after i disco'ed that when i take my rear sway bar off it will solve the problem...i'll let you all know tomorrow...Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Ditch the rear swaybar!
 
dont expect tossing the sway bar to be a miracle cure either though. these springs are still very new and will take more time to get broken in, however it will definetly help getting rid of that sway bar.
 
wow, i never thought there was such a huge diff. w/ the rear swaybar between my 93 and my 2000...tonight i'm helpin my buddy put a new radiator in his tj and then my rear swaybar will come off. Pics on the way on sunday.
 
You changed the ride height but did you change to a longer rear shock. I am still using the OEM rear shocks which limits the amount of drop not flex in the rear.
 
yea i got new DT3000's (junk) but cheap for starting out, once i save up more money its OME, i just put a set in my buddies rig and it rides unbelievable. I already checked the length of them and figured out thats not the prob. i'm down to checkin the swaybar and then just givin the springs more time to settle in.
 
JeepXJ93 said:
Ur telling me that a kit that costs 3 times as much as rusty's isnt going to flex as good?!!! I thought the more you pay the better the kit and by better i thought it meant better offroad quality?
Just because the rear is stiffer the Rustys does not mean its not a better kit. Look at the other things like the quality of the control arms and such. RE makes quality stuff. Rusty does not.

Oh...and take the rear sway bar off....take it somewhere away from you....and leave there and never look back. They are worthless it will ride better and you won't notice any difference in the way it handles on the street.
 
Did anyone mention.......the single most effective mod that you can make to an XJ in stock or lifted form to improve axle articulation (commonly referred to as "flex") is to disconnect the front and rear swaybars? Oh, yah.......they did.

When you add a stiffer rate spring, such as lift springs, the pinky-finger thick rear bar becomes nothing more than an articulation inhibitor. Remove it and deposit it at your local steel recycler.
It is highly recommended to contine running the front anti-swaybar though; the use of a quality set of anti-swaybar disconnects will allow it to it's job on the road and disable it when you want flex offroad.

This public service message has been provided by the Society for Unincumbered Flex............
 
ive got disconnects for the front of my axle, but i havent been running them since i lost the pins to hook them up. the rear on mine is also disconnected, and if anything, you will notice a bit of a difference once you get it out of the way. your kit will take time to settle in, but thats just normal, but once it does, it should flex as good as you want it to. removing the rear sway bar really will help on road and off road handling... just like everyone else has just said
 
Psh I'm hearing all this jazz about disconnecting your rear sway bar but mine's connected and stuffs the tires all up in the wheel wells. BUT that does mean it's worthless and these guys know their stuff so dood it.
 
So after all of this did you finally remove the rear bar? It only take about five minutes to remove a wheel and take off one of the links.
 
yeah, throw away the rear. RE directions, at least for my 5.5 extreme duty, tell you to throw it away. but it was the first thing i did way back when i first got i. i had the RE 3.5 super ride kit on for a year or so, on my 93. ran it with no sway-bars. but i had AAL in the back, so it stiffened it up a bit. but it flexed like mad. with 32's and cut fenders, on rear would tuck all the way into the fender. dont remeber how long it took to get it that way.
 
I will deffinatly remove the rear swaybar tonight...working till 5 though...grrrr
 
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