Yet another... Build thread for an xj on 40s and one tons in norcal

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Got the wfo speaker cans installed with some kenwood marine speakers. Needed to have tunes with no roof and therefore no stock overhead speaker bar and with the tube doors coming wasnt going to have any speakers. . Thanks to Clydefrog for grabbing them from WFO for my will call order.

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Thanks man!

WB:
Actually, I need to double check WB, with the MJ leaves, the long Ruffstuff perches, and using the most rearward hole on the ruffstuff perches, I think I ended up at 103-104" depending on where I ended up putting my lowers. I try to measure tonight after work and post up.

Coils:
I am using a 6" PAC coil now, but the dude who welded the coil buckets on, welded them pretty high, so its like a 7-7.5" lift because of that. A 6" coil will be fine with the 40s, and I plan to eventually drop it down up front, but I needed the stiffer coil and the taller coils to help not kill shocks and add some On-road stability.
I am using a 12" short body 7100's, I re-valved them to 400/100.
Tires:
These 40s are very true to size, I believe they are 40", I can always measure again but they are huge compared to my old 37s. They are great on road and good enough offroad, I think once they wear in more they will get better. I think the rear traction bar is going to help a ton too. Ill measure tires as they sit now at 22psi which is my highway driving psi.

As for the rear leafs:
MJ bastard packs, with some 4-6" XJ leaves that already on the rig, shackle relocation boxes, and a 1.5" boomerang, I ended up with like 8-8.5" lift, but I haven't put all my gear and my spare tire in it, which adds like 500+ pounds, so I am sure it will be closer to 7.5" loaded.


With a 106.4" wheel base did you have to raise the gas tank, or did you bump stop it so the 14 bolt wouldn't smash into it?
Did you move the front axle any and did you put in front stiffners?
 
Im around 104”. The 14b barely clears the gas tank. Sits under it just a bit. Its bump stopped a ton in the rear S10 bumps with like 2” air gap.i have no idea how the 14 hasnt smashed the gas tank honestly it looks like it would always contact but it never does.
 
Front axle is 1-2” forward cant remember exactly how much.
 
Check out the most recent version of the build !

Youtube video here:

https://youtu.be/aaaSPQ8eNh4


I am going to be redoing the drag link over the coming weeks and all new FK heims in the steering.
 
How far is your track bar from the front coil spring bump stop?


trackbar from the bump stop? Far enough not to be hitting the coils, so it's no where near the bump stops .
 
I just slapped in a 2000 dodge durango master cylinder, brakes are so much better now. I have been killing stock brake masters about every year.
putting the part number here so I can find it at a later date : m3518
 
I did the ram 1500/2500 master on mine with the dual diaphragm booster. Mine was a single diaphragm. Seems to not suck with disc front and rear.
 
yeah it made a big difference. the old master failed and it was almost new itself.
 
I think this is cool- a 231/300 doubler we did recently in a buddys xj

 
I used this video as inspiration to get my ecobox in.
no way ! Thats cool! I can tell you from doing the cut up 231, that the eco box would result in far less cutting up of the floor, and probably a easier shifter setup too
 
no way ! Thats cool! I can tell you from doing the cut up 231, that the eco box would result in far less cutting up of the floor, and probably a easier shifter setup too
Definitely less floor cutting, but still cutting. I clocked the 231 flat which out it right where the right rear mounting stud on the driver seat goes. I made my own shifter with some 1/8 plate,a steel spacer, and some 3/8 rod from ace. it’s going just to the left of the emergency brake lever. I had to make sure I had enough space to be able to get the transmission high enough to remove it should I ever need to.
I made it a cable shifter with helms on both ends with the eco box lever at the 9 o’clock position instead of the 12 o’clock. I extended the 231 rod about 9 inches and it seems to work. Now it’s figuring out a front driveshaft (42 inch problem) and was told to go with a two piece. The carrier bearing is going to either need to go up about 9 inches, or have some angles on both ends.
Now I need to finish patching the hole I made behind the driver seat, reinstall the console, fill everything with fluids, install driveshafts, and test it out.
 
Here are some photos in case anyone is looking for a northwest fab NWF 231 doubler combo idea. I can fit a 2x4 between the bottom of the 231 and the transmission crossmember.
Custom made shifter idea. I should have moved the one on the transmission to make it easier for large hands to reach the top cable shifter nut without taking a lot out.

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looks good !
 
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