• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Why Fram filters are bad

Zuki-Ron, if you really are interested in this subject, why not do some more cutting up, this time with a few comparable Jeep filters? I did this some years ago, and the differences were quite apparent. You may still decide Frams are good enough, but if you're honest you won't be able to say they're the same.

I recommend that for your next 12 thousand miles or so, you buy, in succession, a Fram, a Wix, a Bosch, and a K&N. Use the same oil every time, and run each for three thousand miles. Make a note of the oil pressure readings when filter is new, and just before the change. When all four are used up, cut them open and compare. Look at the material, the support, the number of pleats, and the design of the anti-drainback valve.

I wouldn't take your word for it. Don't take mine. Look for yourself.
 
Matthew Currie said:
Zuki-Ron, if you really are interested in this subject, why not do some more cutting up, this time with a few comparable Jeep filters? I did this some years ago, and the differences were quite apparent. You may still decide Frams are good enough, but if you're honest you won't be able to say they're the same.

I recommend that for your next 12 thousand miles or so, you buy, in succession, a Fram, a Wix, a Bosch, and a K&N. Use the same oil every time, and run each for three thousand miles. Make a note of the oil pressure readings when filter is new, and just before the change. When all four are used up, cut them open and compare. Look at the material, the support, the number of pleats, and the design of the anti-drainback valve.

I wouldn't take your word for it. Don't take mine. Look for yourself.
Click to expand...


Agreed. It's not product bashing, its just fact. Fram is fine for 3,000 mile oil changes and if you're not concerned with oil pressure.

For my older Jeep, I solved by noisy lifter at startup problems by switching to Wix. The Fram anti-drainback valve just doesn't cut it.
 
I don't know about any of the science stuff, I go by personal experience. When I bought my 95 XJ the PO had put a fram filter on it. I changed the filter as soon as I got it and my oil pressure went up a full 10lbs on the gauge. I would have changed the oil when I changed the filter, but the bank account was runnin on E and I had to wait for a paycheck to clear. (I did a full oil change a week and a half later)
 
Matthew Currie said:
Zuki-Ron, if you really are interested in this subject, why not do some more cutting up, this time with a few comparable Jeep filters? I did this some years ago, and the differences were quite apparent. You may still decide Frams are good enough, but if you're honest you won't be able to say they're the same.

I recommend that for your next 12 thousand miles or so, you buy, in succession, a Fram, a Wix, a Bosch, and a K&N. Use the same oil every time, and run each for three thousand miles. Make a note of the oil pressure readings when filter is new, and just before the change. When all four are used up, cut them open and compare. Look at the material, the support, the number of pleats, and the design of the anti-drainback valve.

I wouldn't take your word for it. Don't take mine. Look for yourself.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I don't have the time for such minusha. Perhaps you do, but I don't.

If you read what I posted, you know I'm not a newbie and that I posted my findings, and my impressions.

Also, I don't recall ever saying that Fram filters were the "same", and I can't recall ever defending the product beyond sayng that it worked and that I find nothing abnormal about the pix in the OP. I can't be more honest than that. If that's not good enough for you, well... sorry.

I have seen a couple of websites out there created by Ford SHO folks, who appearantly have no life either, since they did a complete comparison of all brands of filters, with pictures. They have a much more detailed writeup on each filter, and their impression. Yet, they do not bash the filter either. It is a comparison and nothing more

All manufactures put out a dud now and again. Years ago, I ran across a Hastings brand filter that had a bad anti-drainback valve in it. Talk about no oil pressure at start up!

My point is, that this thread was started as a product bashing thread.
So what if "you" don't like Fram? Who cares? Don't start a thread about it.
Goes for any manufacture. Wait for someone to ask, then give an unbiased opinion based on 1st hand information.

If there is a recall on the product, by all means start a thread, but this constant barage of "bash the manufacture" threads is getting old.

You guys need to get away from the computer more ;)
 
i kind of appreciate hearing peoples opinions. of course i take nothing on the net as FACT. always check n see for urself. i just replaced my oil filter with a napa gold im glad i made a good choice! :D the oil pressure notes here are very interresting, as we all know the life expectancy of any bearing is entirely dependant upon lubrication, temperature, and contaminants. if u have more flow u have more lube, and better cooling. so that in my mind says the frams are sub-par. that is if the pressure statements are factual.
 
my77gmc said:
i kind of appreciate hearing peoples opinions. of course i take nothing on the net as FACT. always check n see for urself. i just replaced my oil filter with a napa gold im glad i made a good choice! :D the oil pressure notes here are very interresting, as we all know the life expectancy of any bearing is entirely dependant upon lubrication, temperature, and contaminants. if u have more flow u have more lube, and better cooling. so that in my mind says the frams are sub-par. that is if the pressure statements are factual.
Click to expand...
You should always take pressure statements, including mine, with a grain of salt, since so many factors - temperature, oil brand, filter age, and even probably the phase of the moon, can influence the reading by a few pounds. Mine are anecdotal for sure, but I believe from them that the best filters will provide a little better flow for a little longer.

Of course you also have to be careful about oil pressure, because while it's true that the best flow provides the best lubrication, it's not necessarily the best pressure. One of the arguments for using thinner oils is that you get better bearing cooling and contamination removal from the maximum flow rate, as long as pressure is adequate. You can get a higher pressure reading from thicker oil, but if the result is slower flow, you're not gaining.
 
I agree about the pressure but isnt one of the things fram advertises about better flow. in my opinion better flow doesnt mean more oil pressure. as long as your within specs it is fine. also if by switching to another filter gives you more pressure then couldnt that also mean that the filter is constricting flow and therfore creating a misleading pressure.

Just by example a 4.0 with a 1.5 inch exhaust is going to be able to shoot a golf ball out of the tailpipe! More pressure. however with a 3 inch exhaust it would probably just flow around the tailpipe. less pressure more flow. i think more info needs to be found out before pointing the finger.

OH BTW i run napa in mine. Done it for years and never had a problem. so I am not a fram empathizer. hehe

Sean
 
Bugboy said:
I agree about the pressure but isnt one of the things fram advertises about better flow. in my opinion better flow doesnt mean more oil pressure. as long as your within specs it is fine. also if by switching to another filter gives you more pressure then couldnt that also mean that the filter is constricting flow and therfore creating a misleading pressure.

Just by example a 4.0 with a 1.5 inch exhaust is going to be able to shoot a golf ball out of the tailpipe! More pressure. however with a 3 inch exhaust it would probably just flow around the tailpipe. less pressure more flow. i think more info needs to be found out before pointing the finger.

OH BTW i run napa in mine. Done it for years and never had a problem. so I am not a fram empathizer. hehe

Sean
Click to expand...
Pressure is read downstream from the filter.
 
It is late and i am on muscle relaxers but I am thinking it would prove the point even more if the pressure was taken after the filter. A blockage will generally give more pressure after. just like a hose if you run a straight water hose it just rolls out but if you pinch the end tighter it increases the pressure dramatically and sprays or shoots.

does the jeep oil flow run through the pump then the filter or is the filter before the pump in the basic scheme of things. i think the pump is first correct? too late too many drugs! love my percoset and cyclobenzeprene.

I just find this kind of stuff interesting just playing devils advocate here to try to get some ideas in an otherwise fram bashing thread. (which i also dont mind doing hehe)
 
threads like these are good.
if someone hates a product enough to start threads about it, i want to read why.
i have never read a thread bashing napa or motorcraft filters, does this mean these products are better? youd be an idiot to not think so.
this isnt the first time hearing how bad fram filters are, i run fram filters in the DD (hey, its not a racing engine, right?), guess what? my lifters tick at startup, and now i know a possible cause... NO MORE FRAM for me

get off the tech-nazi bandwagon, its relevant conversation amongst MOSTLY paying members, untill you douched it up defending an inferior product you like because their color scheme gives you a hard-on, might i recommend viagra for that? And... fl-1a's have a grip top as well...
thumbs up[
 
Last edited:
Quote: threads like these are good.
if someone hates a product enough to start threads about it, i want to read why.
i have never read a thread bashing napa or motorcraft filters, does this mean these products are better? youd be an idiot to not think so.
this isnt the first time hearing how bad fram filters are, i run fram filters in the DD (hey, its not a racing engine, right?), guess what? my lifters tick at startup, and now i know a possible cause... NO MORE FRAM for me

Indeed this is a great thread! it is good to see first hand results like the ones shown with the cut apart filter. Alot better then the hearsay. I need proof before i believe something (most of the time.)

I agree with you guys 100% about not using fram. I never liked them in any of the drag cars i used to run. I only ran a few of them because of the sponsorship royalties. the only thing i was questioning is the pressure increase when not using one. I am very curious about that. I might get a fram and see what pressures i get and just do a little test. I dont doubt that the napa has a better filter I use them on everything i drive. if you want to see the insides of a napa filter compared to alot of the othersjust visit a dealer they all have a teardown view of several top name filters. The next on my list is wix, but i belive someone stated that the napa is made by wix so i guess i am still with napa or wix or whatever!

great thread!
 
Zuki-Ron said:
My engine has 202K miles on it, and at hwy speed (2100rpm) has 50psi of pressure per the guage, and when HOT, has 15psi of pressure. I use 10-30W Valvoline dino-oil, and I've had that combo since I bought it at 132K.
I don't see a problem. Not in the slightest. Not even a little one.
Click to expand...

We have a 93 Country we bought with 135k on it, it now has a bit over 204k. We use 10-40 in summer, 5-30 in winter. Your post kinda stood out to me since we have a jeep that we've put about the same mileage on.
According to the gauge, oil pressure never drops below the middle/center line, except maybe just a hair once in a while while it's idling and hot. I think that's 40psi? I replaced the oil pressure switch a while back, but I guess I just don't know how much to trust factory gauges in an old vehicle. Regardless, isn't 15psi kind of weak?




I use either Napa Gold or Purolator PureOne, depending on where I am when buying stuff for an oil change. I don't use Fram because most of the time, the two places I go to get stuff don't even sell it. My only experience with a fram filter is when I bought the 93 Sport a year ago, the oil pressure gauge was "broken", it was reading off the gauge. I figured it was the oil pressure switch or whatever, but when I did the oil change the gauge worked fine and has ever since. Only real thing I changed was replacing the fram filter, I used the same grade oil as the previous owner said he did. Don't know why an oil filter would cause that, but evidently it did.

I guess I just hear way too many bad things about Fram filters to actually try one, if it was on the shelf.
 
Ive had bad luck with FRAM as well.

Pretty to look at though. Sure looks good on a freshly built or detailed engine, but Ive had oil pressure related issues on two different tngines that were remedied by swapping the (fresh) frams out for OEM-style filters.
 
Stormwalker said:
My only experience with a fram filter is when I bought the 93 Sport a year ago, the oil pressure gauge was "broken", it was reading off the gauge. I figured it was the oil pressure switch or whatever, but when I did the oil change the gauge worked fine and has ever since. Only real thing I changed was replacing the fram filter, I used the same grade oil as the previous owner said he did. Don't know why an oil filter would cause that, but evidently it did.
Click to expand...

Funny, mine did the exact opposite when i put a K&N Filter on mine. I am 100% positive I didn't break the oil pressure senor, but my guage stopped working and then a few days later the sensor burst and I started spewing oil.
 
X50 for FRAM FILTERS SUCKING

I HATE FRAM FILTERS. They use cardboard end caps when all other use metal among the numerous infearer components.

I prefer NAPA (wic's) or Purolator brands.
 
Stormwalker said:
We have a 93 Country we bought with 135k on it, it now has a bit over 204k. We use 10-40 in summer, 5-30 in winter. Your post kinda stood out to me since we have a jeep that we've put about the same mileage on.
According to the gauge, oil pressure never drops below the middle/center line, except maybe just a hair once in a while while it's idling and hot. I think that's 40psi? I replaced the oil pressure switch a while back, but I guess I just don't know how much to trust factory gauges in an old vehicle. Regardless, isn't 15psi kind of weak?
Click to expand...

Hot at idle=15lbs. At hwy=40lbs. The word "idle" probably got edited out in one of my many pre-post revisions- Sorry! IIRC, the oil that's in there now has a bit over 3000 miles on it, and it's due for a change.

Positive suggestions that were made about trying a different brand noted, and not out of hand either, but truely considered.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
NP 231 input shaft
Replies
3
Views
2K
RCP Phx
R
Anak
Fixing What the Professional Fixed
Replies
7
Views
888
Bent
Bent
A
00 XJ - Low oil pressure at hot idle. Compression and analysis are good, what's next?
Replies
12
Views
2K
sixditchoffroad
sixditchoffroad
R
88 Renix Cherokee 4.0 running crazy (long)
2
Replies
36
Views
3K
RastMR
R
M
96 XJ stumbles then shuts off when warmed up. P0171
4 5 6
Replies
113
Views
11K
Unclewolverine
U
Back
Top