WHICH HEADER

OK, I am looking into getting the Thorley headers. I can only see that they come in ceramic coating. What and how does that help? Also, the best deal I can find is 487.00 shipped to my door. Anyone know any other place to get a better deal, or is that good enough?

Thanks,
Silent
 
I would be hard pressed to spend nearly $500 on a header when the $150 APN header will perform just as well. Anyways, the ceramic coating will stay looking like new longer than a painter header.
 
Silent said:
OK, I am looking into getting the Thorley headers. I can only see that they come in ceramic coating. What and how does that help? Also, the best deal I can find is 487.00 shipped to my door. Anyone know any other place to get a better deal, or is that good enough?

Thanks,
Silent
The ceramic coating will be rust proof, unless the coating cracks. I have one V-8 set done by Jet Coat. I haven't run the vehicle much, but they look the same as the day I got them back from Jet Coat. I had a set of Pace Setter with their Armour coat. After about 3 years there were some rust lines around some of the edges. Nothing I'd complain about. The other advantage with Ceramic coatings in the heat reduction in underhood temps. From my unscientific experiences, there is a 30-40% heat reduction. This can also meen a bit better performance, as the exhaust gas won't loose heat as fast. Thus it will flow a bit better.
Tom
 
jeepinwi said:
I would be hard pressed to spend nearly $500 on a header when the $150 APN header will perform just as well. Anyways, the ceramic coating will stay looking like new longer than a painter header.
Any evidence to back up this claim?
 
beej im not sure but they look identical, and i am pretty srue they are the same diamter piping, im planning on spending money on the apn for sure, plus worse came to worse you have a new header anyways so what. Most likely it will sound better and make the jeep run better the way it goes 6 into 2 into 1. If Im worng someone please tell me why I am.
 
Sorry, rereading my post above really sounds like I was calling him out. That was not my intention. I am interested in the details as a 350 dollar savings seems almost too good to be true if its actually the same thing...
 
So wait, the APN header will fit a 90? It says 91+

I am in desperate need of a header (mine is beyond repair) and I am strapped for cash.

Can anyone confirm beyond a shadow of a doubt, that the APN header WILL fit a 90?
 
RickyN29 said:
So wait, the APN header will fit a 90? It says 91+

I am in desperate need of a header (mine is beyond repair) and I am strapped for cash.

Can anyone confirm beyond a shadow of a doubt, that the APN header WILL fit a 90?

It doesn't have an EGR bung.
 
I've had my pace setter header in for about a month. The slip joints never sealed. I don't have an egr but the header has the port and no plug for it. That one bolt was a real bitch to get in. It blew the crappy fiber exhaust/intake gasket right out. Cracking at the rear cylinder port. So basically I paid about $250 for a header. Now I have to buy another header before I die from carbon monoxide that fills my cherokee.
I put the gibson header on my wrangler a long time ago. I sold the jeep before I ever had a problem with it. I am curious about that apn header. But $150 for another month of use does not sound good to me right now. At least that would have been a $100 cheaper then the pace setter.
 
Hum, i have the pacesetter sitting right here. My stocker is cracked, I was going to install this, but I'm not sure. I have read plenty of success stories with the pacesetter though.
 
I just wanted to leave a little feedback regarding my header experience last month. My local autoparts store set me up with a Pacesetter header (approx $220?) which went all the way back to the cat. It looked well made, but I would have needed to find an ERG bunger (mines a '93) and replaced the cat as well or at least found an adapter as my cat is a slip-type joint, and the Pacesetter ended in a triangular mounting flange. I would have needed to get new bolts to go along with all this and IIRC the O2 sensor was in a slightly different spot. Normally I'd be all for rigging up some way of making what I bought work- but all I really needed was the header, and after reading about the APN on here I decided that was the way I wanted to go.

The APN header came really quick- in just a couple days and it was a week before christmas. All the welds looked good as advertised, and the fit was perfect. The hardest part for me was just trying to figure out how to remove the injector wires (I've never had a EFI vehicle:sad1:) and in total it took me 2 evenings to compleate the job; however, I did also replace the lower radiator hose while I was in there and did some cleaning too. Anyhow, I think I read that some people were having fitment problems with one header or another, but the APN went in relatively easy for me.

If I had another XJ with a cracked header, I would get the APN again.:thumbup: $.02
 
scottie1134 said:
I've had my pace setter header in for about a month. The slip joints never sealed. I don't have an egr but the header has the port and no plug for it. That one bolt was a real bitch to get in. It blew the crappy fiber exhaust/intake gasket right out. Cracking at the rear cylinder port. So basically I paid about $250 for a header. Now I have to buy another header before I die from carbon monoxide that fills my cherokee.
I put the gibson header on my wrangler a long time ago. I sold the jeep before I ever had a problem with it. I am curious about that apn header. But $150 for another month of use does not sound good to me right now. At least that would have been a $100 cheaper then the pace setter.

I had the same issues with my 98 Pacesetter header you had, but I like the long tube design and wasn't going to go back to the shorty header stock, tiny down tube. So what I did was first; weld the EGR bung shut using a cut bolt as the cap; replaced the paper gasket with a metallic reuseable from the autoparts store; welded the header and down tube together at the two slip fits; cut the straight section that goes across under the tranny and inserted a ball flange connector I had the local muffler shop make for me, this allows me to still dissconnect the header from the rest of the system with just two bolts and I don't need to worry about leaks or any gaskets needed at that connection. So after I threw an additional $50 at the header I have exactly what I want and it is like night and day over the banks header and stock downtube I did have.
 
On the pacesetter to get the trouble bolt I used two wrenches strapped together for length and tie wire around the bolt to hold it in place from above while I carefully threaded with the wrench. I also cut my egr tube and used silicone hose to connect. Slip joints still leak though want to have welded but removing header to access oil pan sounds real bad. I also ran into a clearance issue with my front driveline, the double cardan joint hits the down pipe at the collector.( I have no lift, yet) I tossed the silly white wire and used red grey and black soldered, heat shrink, and electrical tape and fastened to upper control arm, I gave enough slack to be tucked between oil pan and bell housing.
 
My 2 years old banks cracks, now I'm looking for a replacement, not shure about borla, I bought the borla cat back system and isn't 2.25" (is about 2" and 1.75" at the joints), I found a banks style header but made of 304 SS insted of 409 for $300.00 (is easy to find welding rods for 304 than 409).
header-jeep-manifold.jpg
 
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