WHICH HEADER

flyingphil said:
Holly crap, what do you do with your XJ?
Phil
well last weekend I cracked a front wheel, and tore the traction bar out of the rear 9" housing while wheeling, but other than that is sits in the garage.

that lava rock has amazing traction..
 
brent said:
well last weekend I cracked a front wheel, and tore the traction bar out of the rear 9" housing while wheeling, but other than that is sits in the garage.

that lava rock has amazing traction..
That makes for a great signature......
 
I think i've got a cracked cast iron exhaust manifold on my 2000 XJ w/ the 4.0L. My mechanic said that it is possibe to weld it shut. Any comments on this type of solution? Why did Jeep switch from a crappy crack prone tubular axhaust header to a crappy crack prone cast iron manifold? Does anyone have any experience with the headers/manifolds for sale on e-bay?? That may have been a stupid question, cause they're probably junk, but i was wondering.
 
Here's a picture of the banks header:
banks_jeep020.jpg


Now here's a picture of an APN header for about $150:
e6_1.jpg

pretty damn similar, aren't they?
 
I had a Pace Setter with their Armour Coat for about 3 years. It did OK. It was fine when I pulled it off. I have a Clifford Set on it now. The original poster need to see if the smog laws in his state are stricted. There are only a few header sets for the Renix (EGR) setup. Clifford does/did have the boss welded on, but needed the hole drilled through. I have seen a cracked Borla header recently. Pace Setters also have a reputation for cracking. I haven't heard of them having cracking problems in the past year or so. Maybe they improved their quality.
Tom
 
jeepinwi said:
Here's a picture of the banks header:
banks_jeep020.jpg


Now here's a picture of an APN header for about $150:
e6_1.jpg

pretty damn similar, aren't they?


If you look at APN, banks, edlbrock, and a few others, they are all the same design and almost dupilcates of each other, really just depends on material. I bet the SS APN and the Banks are the same header, sourced from some china manufacturer. Probably Banks went to them first and since China doesn't have any patent laws, they can sell it to the next guy just as easily.
 
it better not be the same header i just spent a few bills and about 8 hours getting the dang thing in! hey the two bolts in the middle under the intake manifold are impossible to tighten they are common with the header and manifold but since the header has individual tubes the bolts can not be reached after the manifold is put on...anyone else run into this problem? anyways i just drove around with the header, banks and i have a magnaflow high flow cat and flowmaster and it sounds great as for hp and torque can not really tell yet anyways its a great header but install is a pain
 
aparke4 said:
it better not be the same header i just spent a few bills and about 8 hours getting the dang thing in! hey the two bolts in the middle under the intake manifold are impossible to tighten they are common with the header and manifold but since the header has individual tubes the bolts can not be reached after the manifold is put on...anyone else run into this problem? anyways i just drove around with the header, banks and i have a magnaflow high flow cat and flowmaster and it sounds great as for hp and torque can not really tell yet anyways its a great header but install is a pain
This is a common problem on the 4.0, even the factory header is a pain. You might try some socket head cap screws. I know I have to shorten on on the Clifford set I have. The bend is very tight on one of those bolts.
Tom
 
75SV1 said:
I had a Pace Setter with their Armour Coat for about 3 years. It did OK. It was fine when I pulled it off. I have a Clifford Set on it now. The original poster need to see if the smog laws in his state are stricted. There are only a few header sets for the Renix (EGR) setup. Clifford does/did have the boss welded on, but needed the hole drilled through. I have seen a cracked Borla header recently. Pace Setters also have a reputation for cracking. I haven't heard of them having cracking problems in the past year or so. Maybe they improved their quality.
Tom

My nephew works for Borla, and he told me they haven't gotten a return on a header for any jeep product with a crack for as long as he has been there (about three years) some that were obvoiusly in accidents and crushed, but not heat or a vibration related crack. So have the guy send in the one you saw. They have a lifetime replacement warrenty.
 
papacan said:
this is typical for me,this header looks good,clean welds,s/s & CHEAP price & YEA,I have a 90', they start at 91', it did get the ol'heart a thump'n! THANKS!

Ummm....

You know it'll still work right?
 
papacan said:
this is typical for me,this header looks good,clean welds,s/s & CHEAP price & YEA,I have a 90', they start at 91', it did get the ol'heart a thump'n! THANKS!
You could have a muffler shop weld on a bung or EGR boss. I'll pass along the info on the warranty for the Borla header. It cracked on one of the welds around the collector.
Tom
 
With any of the headers that you buy you really need to do some porting work on them to make them worthwhile. The welds on the flange tend to obstruct the flow more than they should. An hour of grinding with a dremel took care of my Doug Thorley.

I am on my second Thorley header on my 99 as the first one cracked in 3 places. I bought the ceramic coated one this time to avoid that. I also have a Borla on my 87 with no problems.
 
rag said:
The bottom one should. Its listed as 87-2000. The other one is for the 258 (4.2L). Thats the older motor. It should have the EGR bung (boss) too. I heard they updated them. There are two collectors on that one. I think the one I have has one collector that 'Y's out. For the cost of the ceramic coating its a bargin. I think about $175 to $300 is what ceramic coating could cost you.
Tom
 
My APN header is returning a huge improvement in fuel economy over the stock manifold. I don't think that it is the header alone, but I'm sure that it has 'unlocked' gains that the clean K&N and flowmaster system are contributing together. My motor runs on propane and I normally get 200 miles from a full cylinder. I've clocked up 200 miles today and still got propane in the tank. From the gauge I reckon I will get at least another 20 miles before it is empty.
 
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