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What to do with a Dana 44 from 1987 XJ Wagoneer

hamptonxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I own a 4WD 2000 XJ with the Chrysler 8.25. It is being built for DD, camping, logging roads, and the occasional easy to moderate off-roading. It has a 2" lift with 30" tires. I might go with larger tires in the future but 33s and 3" lift would be the max.

At the local JY I purchased a Dana 44, D to D, taken from an 87 XJ Wagoneer for $250.

I like that the factory 44 is a direct bolt-in with no driveshaft swap needed (according to my research), came with a limited slip versus the open Chrysler dif, there are more aftermarket parts for the 44, the 44 is slightly stronger, and has a better resale value.

However, I'm not sure if I should swap the 44 with the 8.25 or sell it based on my needs. Advice? Suggestions?
 
Front or rear axle? Either way it's the wrong width and wheel bolt pattern.
 
Are you confusing the XJ Wagoneer with the Wagoneer? The Wagoneer came in full size, midsize, and compact versions. The XJ version, made between 87 and 89, is where I pulled the D44. It is an XJ unibody with wood paneling, different grill, and other slight differences from the Cherokee.

Therefore, the D44 rear is the correct same and bolt pattern as my 2000 XJ. Back to my original question, would you spend the time and $ to swap with the Chrysler 8.25 rear or sell?
 
First off 33,s with a 3" lift will need more lift or a lot of trimming.
33,s will require a re-gear to be of good use, So. Keep the 44, re-gear it to 4.56. Add to lift to get at least 4 1/2 " of lift, and re gear the 30 in front, or find a high pinion 30 re gear and swap both axles.
Then add the SYE and new driveshafts ect....
 
Yes, I was thinking SJ! If it a XJ rear your good to go. I would recommend disc's if it doesn't have the big brakes on it.
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I have experience with both axles. I currently have the D44 in my 95 and 97 XJ's. Both replaced D35's in those vehicles. The D44's run a Detroit locker in the rear, with drum brakes. Both rigs are built primarily as trail rigs with long arms and e-lockers up front in the D30's. Have run those jeeps for a few years now. No issues with either axles. 31's on both. Moderate offroading, nothing too hard core. I don't care for body damage.

On my current 99 build, it came with a 8.25, so I opted to keep it. Put a Detroit in that one as well, with drum brakes. 33's on this one.

So from my experience, there is very little difference between the D44 and the 8.25. Both have pros and cons.
1. D44 has more locker options. Didn't matter to me.
2. 8.25 is a c-clip axle, D44 is not. D44 gets an edge IMO.
3. D44 has slightly larger brakes, probably not an issue in your case with those size tires. I think a disc brake swap is easier on the 8.25, but I could be wrong.
4. 8.25 axle tubes are 3", D44 tubes are 2.75".
5. According to the axle shop I use. 8.25 gears are easier to set up.

Strength wise, I feel they are about the same. The 8.25 is a very stout axle.

So here is what I tell people. If you have an 8.25, keep it, build it, run it. IMO, it is not worth the money to upgrade to a D44, unless, you get a smoking deal on one. In my area nowadays, they are hard to find and command a high price.

In your case, you got a good deal on it, so I'd be inclined to run the D44 and sell the other one. You can probably get at least a couple hundred bucks for your 8.25, that would almost offset the cost. If you could sell that D44 for a high price and put a few bucks in your pocket, that would work, too. Can't really lose.

I'm assuming you're not building either axle and just doing a straight swap? With the D44 you get a limited slip, bigger brakes, higher resale value, and higher on the coolness factor. I just don't see strength as a factor.

In your situation, I would keep the D44. You got a great price on it and it has a few more features than the 8.25.

JMHO
 
As is the D44 is worth about $500 on eBay. Sand blasted and painted I used to get $6-800 for an XJ D44 and the buyer paid for shipping.

Your lift, tires, and usage don't require a D44, dress it up, sell it, and use the cash for something more useful.

Chry 8.25 disks are bolt with with KJ Liberty parts, and not much more difficult with D35 parts or Ford Crown Vic parts.



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thanks, great thoughts from everyone. the limited slip and larger drum brakes included with the D44 has led me to decide to keep it. i’ll keep you guys posted on the install...
 
I’ve got an XJ D44 under my 98 and I’m swapping a 8.25 back under it. I did a disc swap with ZJ parts and can’t get the axle tubes to stop leaking. I’ve tried a national, timken, and a SKF seal and it still pukes gear oil.

I’ve read a few posts through the years about people having similar issues with the XJ D44. Many say that a speedi/redi sleeve fixed it due to the axle shaft seal surface becoming worn down allowing fluid to escape. Maybe I’ll try that before ditching the D44 for the C8.25.
 
I’ve got an XJ D44 under my 98 and I’m swapping a 8.25 back under it. I did a disc swap with ZJ parts and can’t get the axle tubes to stop leaking. I’ve tried a national, timken, and a SKF seal and it still pukes gear oil.

I’ve read a few posts through the years about people having similar issues with the XJ D44. Many say that a speedi/redi sleeve fixed it due to the axle shaft seal surface becoming worn down allowing fluid to escape. Maybe I’ll try that before ditching the D44 for the C8.25.

You might be able to hammer the seal in a hair more to get the seal to ride on a different spot...

Or buy new shafts if they're that worn.
 
I swapped out the D35 on my XJ with a 44 and I loved it; the thing I missed was my 35 had a limited slip on it and the 44 didn't, but I soon locked it up f/r anyhow, so that was a non-issue. That being said, I never really had any issues with my stocker. I was stepping up to 35s and preemptively swapped out so I wouldn't be in trouble on some nasty trail somewhere haha.

Some good answers here. Either is a great axle. Since you already run the Chrysler, not sure I’d go to the trouble to swap them out but then I do all my own work with regular jacks and hand tools haha, no access to a lift or etc. If you have those things or “have a guy,” by all means put that fo-fo under it. I also like that it’s non C-clip.
 
no enough of a gain in strength to warrant the swap IMO. with 33's as max tire, simply not needed.

for example, I've been running an 8.25 locked on 33's for years and not afraid to smash the skinny pedal to get over obstacles. 8.25 is a pretty tough axle.

I'd sell it (pretty desirable for someone with a D35) and do other things with the funds/shop time.
 
I had an 8.25 in my 96 and swapped in a junk yard D44.
I'm running 33s right now with 4.88s and a Detroit and Explorer discs, will be going to 35s to drop the freeway rpm.
Mine was the earlier 27 spline model, if it would have been the 29 spline I probably would have just kept it.
And, yeah.... I used to pick them up for $125 and sell them for $350.
Don't find them too often now.
Hans
 
I had an 8.25 in my 96 and swapped in a junk yard D44.

I'm running 33s right now with 4.88s and a Detroit and Explorer discs, will be going to 35s to drop the freeway rpm.

Mine was the earlier 27 spline model, if it would have been the 29 spline I probably would have just kept it.

And, yeah.... I used to pick them up for $125 and sell them for $350.

Don't find them too often now.

Hans
Should've mentioned i have the 29er...



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