What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

SeeingSpots said:
So deflated....


First time up an RTI ramp today and made it about 2 feet before my left front tire mashed into the wheel well. :smsoap:

Got underneath and realized the PO jerry rigged the entire UCA's setup, and because of it, the axle sits about 4" inches too far back, not allowing the wheel to tuck evenly.




Jim
Click to expand...

Wow! Nice rig is that how you bought it? I love it!

What are your numbers on the calculator?

Did the PO want a suspension that had little to no up travel and a lot of droop, so he set it up that way? From the pictures it looks way....


Hard to believe (from the pics) your running 4" back, sitting at 89.4" WB. Your TB looks good along with the steering geometry.

Y links have been proven, if you are going to go a different route (which would be a waste of $$$) go true 4 link LA not 3 link.

My.02 cents
Bump stop it and wheel the crap out of it.
 
xj5280 said:
Wow! Nice rig is that how you bought it? I love it!

What are your numbers on the calculator?

Did the PO want a suspension that had little to no up travel and a lot of droop, so he set it up that way? From the pictures it looks way....


Hard to believe (from the pics) your running 4" back, sitting at 89.4" WB. Your TB looks good along with the steering geometry.

Y links have been proven, if you are going to go a different route (which would be a waste of $$$) go true 4 link LA not 3 link.

My.02 cents
Bump stop it and wheel the crap out of it.
Click to expand...

Just so you know, that picture I posted is not my rig. It was an example of the Y-links I'm considering building.

I believe the PO built it to have a longarm suspension and 7" of lift - and didn't really care how he did it. Considering the RS5000 shocks are already within 1" of full extension without flexing, I'd say he threw a bunch of random parts together to crawl the malls. This thing was a hack job through-and-through when I got it, so this hiccup isn't surprising in the least. I'm more pissed at myself because I assumed the axle was centered before I started building/welding the steering and track bar mounts.

I'm neurotic and if I'm going to build something, I'm going to build it correctly. My projects are a reflection of me.
 
xj5280 said:
Wow! Nice rig is that how you bought it? I love it!

What are your numbers on the calculator?

Did the PO want a suspension that had little to no up travel and a lot of droop, so he set it up that way? From the pictures it looks way....


Hard to believe (from the pics) your running 4" back, sitting at 89.4" WB. Your TB looks good along with the steering geometry.

Y links have been proven, if you are going to go a different route (which would be a waste of $$$) go true 4 link LA not 3 link.

My.02 cents
Bump stop it and wheel the crap out of it.
Click to expand...

missed those body mounts did ya lol :dunce:
 
If you can fit a proper 3-link, go for it.

The hard part tends to be getting the upper arm mounted.

A 3-link with the upper mounted on the passenger side would work great, and *can* give you more options in suspension geometry than a long arm/y-link/etc.

That being said, I ran a longarm kit before building the buggy and had I not had the fabrication abilities I do now...would not hesitate to again (though maybe with some limiting straps :D)
 
freerider15 said:
If you can fit a proper 3-link, go for it.

The hard part tends to be getting the upper arm mounted.
Click to expand...

That's exactly the issue I'm running into, brother.

The LCAs mounting point is on the top side of the trans crossmember, leaving virtually no room to weld another bracket. The only way to get the proper separation between the two points is to cut into the Passenger side floor - which I'm not doing.

I'm kind of out of ideas.
 
SeeingSpots said:
That's exactly the issue I'm running into, brother.

The LCAs mounting point is on the top side of the trans crossmember, leaving virtually no room to weld another bracket. The only way to get the proper separation between the two points is to cut into the Passenger side floor - which I'm not doing.

I'm kind of out of ideas.
Click to expand...

Yeah that seems to be the hardest part about a 3-link is that usually to get proper separation, and NOT have the lower link sit below the frame rail and thus be boat anchors...the upper link wants to sit inside the passenger floor board.
 
so my engine issue has changed. the cap and rotor need changed and i bet plugs etc do too. so today i do some poking about on the wiring at the plug for the tps. no it runs about 40 percent of the time strong with no stuttering and popping out the exhaust. i also have a tps from a vehicle with an auto installed(i did this before, nothing new). one plug fits and i leave the other one empty. seems to be working fine. FYI if you need one and the parts store only has the auto part you should be fine to use it.
once i get mine sorted out i ll be cutting off the wires i dont need.
 
Ugh....Well I did some measuring today and it turns out that my front axle is only about 2"" too far backwards. So I'm going to have to cut my upper Trackbar mount away from the frame and move that forward so it doesn't hit my DS spring. THIS SUCKS! (This is an old picture and the mount has since been welded to the frame)



Another day in Jeep paradise, but at least I know it'll be done correctly this time. Thank GOD I bought the unlimited alignment package from Firestone. Best $180.00 I ever spent.

Jim
 
Last edited:
After a metric buttload of measuring, I finally was able to build an upper trackbar mount that won't interfere with my spring when I move the axle forward a few inches. I think this design is far superior/stronger than the last one I built.

Now I just need to get this som'bitch in the air and start building my radius arms.





 
Personally, I think that looks like a real turd.


I'm kidding. Nice job Spots.
 
SeeingSpots said:
After a metric buttload of measuring, I finally was able to build an upper trackbar mount that won't interfere with my spring when I move the axle forward a few inches. I think this design is far superior/stronger than the last one I built.

Now I just need to get this som'bitch in the air and start building my radius arms.





Click to expand...

Looks good!

One little bit of advice...round out corners as much as possible (i.e. on the bottom part of the piece).

I know it sounds kinda stupid, but any "corner" will inflict concentrated stress at that point. Especially when its a trackbar mount...and its the thin ass metal we have to deal with :D

I know many will probably rabble about it being stupid...but i've seen it happen first hand where a small corner has punctured the metal or frame on a rig...wasn't pretty!

Sorry just a little enginerd coming out!
 
BTW did you know TnT makes one of those?

hdtrackbarmount_XJ.jpg
 
eflores said:
BTW did you know TnT makes one of those?

hdtrackbarmount_XJ.jpg
Click to expand...


LOL....They stole my design!!!

I'm so damn cheap, and I had this .25" flatbar hanging around anyways.
 
A buddy and his friends needed spares.... You wouldn't have wanted them, they were too low of tread for a brand new buggy like yours.
 
Not so much of what I'm doing to my rig, but what Frank over at Serious Offroad is doing to it... I can't wait to have the jeep finished. Nothing crazy, but the first time I've had a rig on 35s. :clap:


It's getting Frank's 5.5" long arm to clear these.
 
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